Purchased a Changfa R165 watercooled diesel engine, question about flywheel play

[Jesse McB]

Im still at it removing the paint with a wire brush razor blade and a pick. This time i have the engine apart and it only took one tool! A 8" adjustable wrench!!!!! I will be assemblying with a torque wrench since i have the manual with the list of torque requirements  Everythings apart except for the crankshaft assembly i managed to removed it out of the block by tapping on the bearing outter race with a socket. You can see in one of the pics the bearing cover and crankshaft with bearings are all together in its mass ill be buying a bearing puller to take it all apart. Then ill replace with US bearings I have to replace the cylinder sleeve and piston as well because theres a deep scratch on both of them    They be good for spares in the future! I made a custom made R165 cylinder liner removal tool out of a bicycles rear wheel axle stud, wood and a brake rotor and some wood shims, just like a bearing puller it worked flawless! And it took me only 10 min to make it!  I have some pictures posted of it!

They have a overhaul kit for the changfa R165 on aliexpress for $130 free shipping! it comes with cylinder liner, piston, piston rings and o rings, im going to add a few other parts aswell!
The paint is a hassle to remove with the drill and wire brush, it heats up melts and gets tuff, i managed to remove almost all of it except for a few area's on the block. I removed all the paint on the head today to bare metal and that wasnt easy  lol. Who knows maybe this Chinese paint has lead?!   So i spray it with wd40 and wire brush it wet so it dont get in the air. Im painting it with por15 enamel ford tbird red, they got a complete painting kit thats decent price.

[Jesse McB]

This is the R165 cylinder liner puller i made. Its made from a bicycle rear wheel axle stud since its high strength metal, brake rotor and wood.  
The nut against the brake rotor gets tightened up and it pulls the liner out.

[Jesse McB]

Heres a pic of Before using oven cleaner, ill post the after pic soon, i have the other side sitting with the oven cleaner on it.   the oven cleaner actully works on the blue chinese paint! It removes it down to the metal!  i spray it on, cover it with plastic wrap, Let it sit for 2 hours, then i used a razor blade and it actually peels off like a plastic bag in sheets!!! So much easer then A metal wheel brush lol, and smells like lemonds   i was very surprised it works!

Heres a before pic when i didnt use any oven cleaner

[Jesse McB]

After using oven cleaner

[veggie]

Hey Jesse,

Thanks for the update. Should be a beauty by the time you are finished.
I have to pull my R165 apart. I'm getting some soot in the coolant.
Does your engine have any gaskets...anywhere ?

Veggie

[Jesse McB]

I cant wait to paint this engine, im gonna paint it ford T-bird red por15, below is a pic of what the colour will be. Im really impressed with how good the paint came off with oven cleaner, i used easy off its got a really nice lemon smell!

Veggie i only have a few of the gaskets left,  most crumbled right away. The back crank cover, the side bearing cap cover, head gasket, exhaust and intake gasket, they all crumbled when disassembly. But you can make new gaskets with gasket paper and you can buy head gaskets for the changfa R165 on ebay or aliexpress.

I wounder why you would have soot in your coolent? Maybe your head bolts need some tightening? Heres a picture from my changfa R165 manual torque requirements for this engine.

If your going to pull off the head you will need a new gasket most likely. Are you sure its not just the rust mixing with the coolent? I had a r170 with an extended hopper system that ran 12 hours a day for many months, after a few days of running the coolant will turn dark greyish colour.  

This is the colour im painting it por15 ford t-bird red engine enamel

[veggie]

In my case the coolant water was Jet Black when I drained it.
The oil was fine with no water, so I suspect the head gasket was leaking from the combustion chamber to the water jacket.
When I get some time I will pull the head and replace the gasket.

Did you find some gaskets for your engine or do you plan to make your own?

Veggie

[Jesse McB]

I have no problem making my own gaskets for everything, it be cheaper reliable and more efficient except the head gasket of course lol.  Yes i found a source for gaskets on ebay and aliexpress, type in r165 gasket on ebay and you will see a few for sale! They have head gaskets they go for $20, on aliexpress they are much cheaper and can probably get 3 for $20. The guy on ebay selling them has any part you need on damand. On aliexpress i can buy 6 fuel injector nozzels for my R165 for $25 Canadian shipping included. Good deal and perfect if you want to use different fuel types! Same with the injector pump they have the parts for it cheap aswell like $2 for the internal plunger. Piston and cylinder liner kit is available on aliexpress aswell, i will let everyone know of the quality of the parts when i buy them 

[Jesse McB]

I just purchased a 8" 6 ton bearing puller online off amazon to remove the bearings off the crank assembly it should arrive next week. The bearings  are somewhat beefy size 6307 good size for the small engine!!. When i remove the Chinese original bearings ill need the new bearings installed, im thinking using heat and cooled method.

To install the new bearings my idea is I will heat the new bearings using oil bath or oven technique and at the same time i will chill the crankshaft in my deep freeze and after some time slap them all together hopefully with no forces needed. Next heat the side bearing housing and engine block in oven. The side bearing housing should slide right on the bearing assembly and then "drop" the entire crank assembly into its bore in the heated crankcase. I'm going to be carefull with the heating techniques i hear no hotter then 130 C is what you need. But the freezing part gets me thinking about condensation forming, some engines do get exposed to cold like in a car, so i wounder if freezing will hurt the bearings at all?  I wounder if i even have to freeze anything?

[mobile_bob]

dry ice and clean solvent or gasoline work very well for chilling the part you want to shrink
just chip up the dry ice and drop the chips a few at a time into the solvent with the crankshaft in it
it will boil like a witch's brew, and it will be very very cold so use leather gloves or risk certain frostbite.

you can heat the brg over a lightbulb, use a laser temp gun to monitor the temperature.

or... my favorite and likely that of the chinese

use a hammer and a brass drift or punch and just drive it on, you will have an idea how tight the brg fits when you pull
the original.  if you find it tight as hell, and by that i mean you wreck your new puller, maybe the heat/cold method is best

if you find the 6 ton puller takes it right off, then just drive it on or heat it on a lightbulb and drive it home.

bob g

[Jesse McB]

Thank you bob for the great advice! Now I will be busy looking for a dry-ice source  Im glad i ripped apart the changfa it has some casting sand at the head area in the block in the push rod chambers!! I cleaned out most of the sand with a coat hanger and tooth brush for 20 min but still not satified even though it looks really clean now.
I guess one place to look for casting sand is the push rod chambers! Casting sand gets caught underneath the chambers edges and hide from view when the Chinese sand blast the castings. Ill be spending over an hour for sure tmr using a tooth brush coat hanger and a pick to clean out every last grain. Then clean the entire block inside and out in the hottest soapy water and i think ill douse it with oil when its still wet hopefully to avoid flash rust when drying.

[Jesse McB]

Well i got the bearings removed!! Heres a photo, I was happy i woke up this morning with an email saying my bearing puller is out for delivery today! It was supposed to be in jan 9th!  I used just 2 jaws to removed the bearings becuase theres no I room for 3  as you only have half of the bearings exposed because of the crank throws. It worked with some difficulty keeping it straight, but it pulled the bearings off nice and easy! They were very tight to budge but a little wd-40 and a few hits with a wrench on the back of each arm that grabs the bearings makes pulling easier! I was thinking grinding down the arms on the puller to fit between the bearings and the crank throw which is like 1/4 gap  , but i figured i can used it with 2 arms were the crank throw dont cover the other half of the bearings side, and have them on short mode to stabilize it. The oil throw side bearing to remove it i had to put a few metal shims in between the oil throw and bearing to make it easy. Next is to do the cam shaft  

[vdubnut62]

Just out of curiosity Jesse, what brand are the bearings that you removed? The engine being a true Changfa I would have expected a good quality OEM bearing.
I was wondering what to look for when I get the time to go into one of my changfa clones.
Ron.

[Jesse McB]

Just out of curiosity Jesse, what brand are the bearings that you removed? The engine being a true Changfa I would have expected a good quality OEM bearing.
I was wondering what to look for when I get the time to go into one of my changfa clones.
Ron.

Thats exactly what i was thinking that the bearings would be a good brand, but they are china brand. The crank bearings 6307 are AAA brand from china, and the cam bearing is WXB brand from china aswell, So im using US  and japan bearings like SKF and Nachi. I had a bad experience with the china bearings in my R170 and i dont want to take a chance  

[Jesse McB]

Casting sand alert big time! There was so much in the push rod galleries it took me 4 hours of picking scraping and rinsing! Now the gallery's are spotless and clean!! So i figured the best way to wash a block is Hot water amd keep it under at all times, then finish with mild water. I put it in the bath tub on top of a old towel so it dont scratch the tub. My "girl friend was like what are you doing with a engine in the bathtub?!"   Us guys do what we gotta do to get the job done lol!, i will of course clean the tub good after    So i filled the bathtube with hot water and gave the block A good scrubbing keeping it underwater at all times. I Pulled the tubs drain and started filling it with cold water so it stays filled to cover the crank case. I drained The tub when it got cooler in temp.  I used the baths fauscet to rinse out the rest of the crap inside the crankcase with mild temp water. I put it on news paper and sprayed the block good inside and out while its still wet with wd40, and guess what no flash rust. Keep it cool it when wet it won't rust so scary fast.  I slowly took my time over 10 min to dry it with a old shirt that won't lint up. I used methal hydrate in a squirt bottle to remove the wd-40, it dries out the entire block inside and out and it dont stink like gas.The Engine is now ready for its new bearings then piston and cylinder. The last step will be painting it, and setup as a generator, then it be ready for my Nova scotia trip this summer. Im thinking 6 hours a day for a month,  186 hrs