10SI Project

[squarebob]

Bio, the stamped mounting plate came with the engine.

Bob

[squarebob]

If anyone is looking for different size alternator pulleys, Here is a good source:

http://www.ase-supply.com/category_s/183.htm?searching=Y&sort=1&cat=183&show=100&page=1

[BioHazard]

Next I got the coupler pieces and modified the one to fit on the 10SI. I bored the coupler so I could install the nut and secure the coupler to the alt shaft.

I really like how you bored the coupler here to install the nut. I'd like to do something similar but without a lathe, that's not going to happen. Could the set screw be used to hold the coupler in place without the nut or maybe cut a slot in the alternator shaft for a keyway?

[squarebob]

You need to use the nut to secure the fan and coupler/pulley to the shaft. I would be willing to bore a coupler out for you.

Bob

[squarebob]

In doing some research, I found out I can add a diode to the #2 terminal on the 10si and increase the output voltage by about .6 volts. I tried this on my 6/1 setup that charges the starting battery and lo and behold the charge voltage went from 14.7 to 15.2. I put a second diode in series and got the voltage up to 15.6. I am going to wire this all up permanent and put a switch on the second diode so I can take it in and out of the circuit. This way I can "equalize" the battery by throwing a switch that adds the second diode into the circuit to get the higher voltage.

I found the info here on page 52

http://www.ankan.nl/download/12%20Volt%20Doctor%20Alternator%20Handbook.pdf

I will also incorporate this mod on the project that this thread is all about.

It is funny that little things like this get us excited. 

Bob

[BruceM]

That's an excellent reference for alternators, Bob.  Wish I'd had it on hand years ago.

It's very handy that your 10SI's regulator has the extra terminal for the incoming voltage to the regulator. Some don't have that.  A Schottky diode (rated at 20V or better) would allow for a smaller raise in voltage, if needed, since it has about half the forward voltage drop.  On page 36 figure 61 you can see how lowering the input voltage by the diode's forward voltage drop will cause an increase in regulated voltage.

I hope Biohazard will find this. 

Best Wishes,
Bruce

[BioHazard]

I hope Biohazard will find this. 

Watching intently, definately good info.  Bob's been nice enough to make me a coupler so I can build the same.

Looks like we're saving about a thousand bucks to DIY...
http://www.alten-dc.com/products/item/149-12-volt-55-amp-gas-powered-battery-charger.html

[squarebob]

And that little sucker runs at 7000 RPM. 

[squarebob]

I have been busy making a box for everything to fit into.

[squarebob]

More pics. I even found time to add a flywheel and starter to the petter. I am getting too old to be pullin' on a rope to start a diesel!!

[Derb]

Hi Fellas. A bit late but earlier there was interest in a cheap external regulator. A few years ago I used an Email alternator off a 1970 chrysler valiant 245 on an early sports car to replace the dozy generator. The regulator was toast but I managed to pick up an aftermarket electronic replacement which as well as being rediculously cheap also enabled the alternator to poke out around 15 volts at full output. The car had beautiful headlamps as a result and the high voltage didn't damage the battery or any other components. Hope this is of some use. Cheers, derb.

[rcavictim]

More pics. I even found time to add a flywheel and starter to the petter. I am getting too old to be pullin' on a rope to start a diesel!!

Bob,

Nice looking starter install.  I caution that you may need to extend the chassis rail(s) under the starter and add a rear bracket to the starter to keep it from vibrating in a self destructive manner from engine vibration.  Looks like a mechanically pumped pendulum to me the way it is bolted on presently.

[BioHazard]

In doing some research, I found out I can add a diode to the #2 terminal on the 10si and increase the output voltage by about .6 volts.

I wonder if there is a limit to how many volts you can get? Could you trick it into giving you 24v with enough diodes?

[Thob]

My understanding is that the main rectifier diodes in the alternator are "avalanche" diodes, which means that they have a limited reverse voltage capability.  This is a design safety feature, so that if the regulator goes nuts (max output), the diodes will limit the output voltage to avoid damage to the rest of the automobile's electrical system.  In a worse case scenario, it should only burn up the alternator, not blow up the battery, engine computer, radio, etc.  You can get a little extra voltage, but I don't think you can go up to 24V.  You can get replacement diodes designed for a 24 or 48 volt system - but you probably should have bought a 24 volt alternator to begin with.

Instead of using one or more diodes to fool the regulator into giving you higher voltage, you can use a zener diode to provide whatever voltage drop you want, they come in a wide range of voltages.

[Ronmar]

Yep, that works, by lying to the regulator. with the sense line seeing less voltage it ups the output to compensate for the voltage lost across the diode.  You should be able to do 24V, but the issue is usually that the diodes in the rectifyer have trouble switching the higher voltage at higher currents.  Bob went over this very well in his white paper on running the leece-neville alts at increased output.  You really need better rectifyer diodes. 

But diodes in-line with the sense line, if the alternator wiring configuration will allow it, is a poor-mans way to taylor the output charge voltage above the automotive single default voltage