Z482 direct-drive build

[ArcticCogen]

I'm collecting pieces for a direct drive build with my Z482.  I've got a 6.5kW head and the Hayes 930135 generator drive but I need the engine backplate to match.  It looks like my Z482 was originally intended for a belt drive application and only has a little back plate just big enough to mount the starter.

Can anyone help me out with the Kubota part number for the standard bell housing size back plate (or maybe even the actual backplate itself?)

Thanks,
John

[ArcticCogen]

Specifically what I'm looking for is the engine back plate that fits an SAE#5 bell housing.  I'm still looking online but everything I can find references parts wrt machinery, not just the engine...

[ArcticCogen]

But not the SAE5 "flywheel housing".  Henry did the same setup a few years ago, the picture is here: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1283.msg15097#msg15097

[XYZER]

I have a z482 but am not up to speed on the different ways they can be configured. HNEW knows all about them. 
http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1283.0

[ArcticCogen]

Still looking for this.  I should point out that the Kubota web site on-line illustrated parts catalog only works in the USA (I just get a message that says "Access in only US market") 

As near as I can determine there are three factory Kubota engine plates for the Z482.  The first is the SAE5 flywheel housing.  Don't want that.  The second is for a belt drive application and is just big enough to hang the starter on.  I've got that, don't want it.  The third is the engine plate that sticks out past the flywheel all the way around to bolt a bell housing on to.  THAT is what I'm looking for.

Help!

[mobile_bob]

i know i have written more than a couple times on this subject

here goes again

if you can't find a suitable housing, you can certainly do this

take off the flywheel
remove the steel plate that would be sandwiched between the block and the bellhousing

use that plate to make up another, make it out of 3/8" plate, it can be laser cut or it can be cut
out with a less expensive process... or waterjet.... even with a torch if carefully done

use the hole to line up to drill the newly cutout plate

then find some DOM tubing, something with the id about the size of the
bolts used to install the bellhousing

cut out lengths of this DOM to be long enough to provide enough spacing
for the flywheel

also bore or cut a hole large enough for a shaft of suitable sizing for a pto
shaft, plus about a 1/4" so it will be a bit sloppy

then assemble using the DOM tubes as standoffs, and torque it all up
you can then do just enough welding to put all together, at least weld the DOM to the
outer cutout plate.  remove and finish welding, i would suggest a MIG or TIG
to keep warpage to a minimum.... if you weld it while all torqued up
and without the flywheel in the way, you can be assured it will not warp
enough to be an issue.

then it is a matter of making up the flexplate drive adpt and a PTO stubshaft
slip it all through,  and slide on a flange mount bearing, and dia indicate
the shaft and brg into true alignment... then bore two small holes for dowels
and when doweled into place, bore, thread and install the brg.

you now have a built up plate style housing with a pto shaft that will be as
strong and as true running as anything else you can buy, for a lot less money.

now if you want to go direct drive, it is simply a matter of drilling the cutout plate,
drilling and tapping to fit your genhead,  dialing it into true, tack weld, and finish welding
after you double check alignment.

remember a lot of lab test engines, locomotive engines and a plethora of other
pieces of equipment have for decades been built up from welded plates, standoffs,
spacers, gussets and whatever else is needed to accomplish the end needed.

the only reason castings beat out welded construction is casting are a ton
cheaper to produce that built up housing, especially for mass produced parts

for one off and prototype work a built up welded plate design has much to offer
in my opinion.

fwiw
bob g

ps.  if all you need now is a heavier intermediate plate, take your plate or bellhousing
to a steel shop and have one made off yours as a pattern from whatever thickness material you want... probably can get it cheaper done that way than an oem part?   plasma cutting is not that expensive these days.

[ArcticCogen]

I found it!!!  Kubota 16867-04620 PLATE, REAR END

I am the king of Google and that was still unbelievably hard to find.  Thank you gciron.com for your online parts database that allows you to search by engine instead of by equipment model AND with pictures, too.  It seems like that engine with the full backplate must not be very common pairing anymore?

I'll report back when I get it here.

John

[pressurepro]

Should be pretty easy to find a diect drive bellhousing....its basically the smallest of the super minis up to a d902....look for the diesel driven light towers for the parts....just trying to help...

[ArcticCogen]

Should be pretty easy to find a diect drive bellhousing....its basically the smallest of the super minis up to a d902....look for the diesel driven light towers for the parts....just trying to help...

I already have the bellhousing, it's the proper rear engine plate I was looking for.  There are several variations and most Kubota parts sites are organized by equipment (backhoes, tractors, etc.) instead of engines so first you have to figure out what machines used the Z482 engine (surprisingly few!).  Once I found a web site that could search parts by engine model (gciron.com) I tracked it down right away.

John

[ArcticCogen]

The engine plate arrived the other day and it is indeed the correct one.  I also realized in the nick of time that I needed a new oil pan to replace the 5.5 liter extended-run pan with a standard-sized unit as the bigger one sticks out under the flywheel.  Now that both those items are in hand the next step is to get everything bolted together and post some pictures!

If anyone here is contemplating a Z482 belt drive setup they're welcome to the big oil pan and starter mounting plate for the cost of the postage. 

John

[ArcticCogen]

Finally got around to starting work on the Z482.  First step was replacing the extended-run oil pan with the standard version.

[ArcticCogen]

Next up was installing the new engine back plate and the Hayes generator drive parts.

John

[ArcticCogen]

To make it easier to put things together I bolted the aluminum frame to a 3 foot high shop cart.  For some reason this also makes it very difficult to get a good picture.  I've taken several as things progressed but the 'subject' always seems to get lost in my cluttered shop.  This time I stood on a chair to get a better perspective...

The gen head is mated (a Northern Tool relabeled Mecc-Alte 6kW) along with a few other bits and pieces like the fuel filter and shutdown solenoid.  The cooling system is also mounted and now I'm waiting on some hoses to plumb it in.  I spent an hour going through the Gates hose catalog to reverse-select some molded hoses that can be cut up to align with all the fittings.  It didn't help that the fittings are all for 1" hose except the water pump inlet which is 7/8" but I think I've got it sorted.

[ArcticCogen]

Control panel and metering.  Empty box so far, still have to wire everything.
Just set it on top of the frame to see what it will look like.

[veggie]

Hi Arctic,

How is the project progressing?
I am watching with keen interest. I just acquired a Z482 engine.
Mine came with a stub shaft which enables me to belt drive my gen head, so I intend to mount the head beside the engine on a fabricated base.
These are lovely little units. I have yet to hear one run but I suspect with good exhaust silencing they would not make much noise.
One good thing about these is that they have IDI cylinder heads enabling us to run some alternate fuels.

cheers,
veggie