News:

we are back up and running again!

Main Menu

Oil leaking from exhaust port

Started by bobansen, March 19, 2012, 01:13:56 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

bobansen

I happen to notice spots of lub oil on the floor right under the exhaust port where it bolts to the cylinder head. Not knowing where it came from I just cleaned it up and started the engine again. then later in the day I saw it was dripping from the port itself and my wife said much smoke is coming from the muffler. I cant see it from inside the engine room. So off the engine and thought why? How? Aha maybe from a worn valve guide.. but this engine (1115) has less than 60 hrs run time.. Anyway removed the head and its dry as a bone as it should be. The valve guide has minimum play so doubt if oil is running through to make the smoke or drips. oil drain is huge so no chance of a blockage. The next thing in mind is a oil control ring but that means removal of rod and piston = down time for more time than I need right now. (Digging a deep well) Besides I do not think the rings would even be beded in yet.
Has anyone had this problem in the past... any info to the cause would be helpfull. (he says praying)...
tks Bobbie
ps this occures hot or cold engine and the fuel is Diesel


billswan

Hello bob

You do not say if you are experiencing engine oil consumption?

With only 60 hours run time I would agree that the rings may not yet have seated.

Is the engine loaded properly or is it way under loaded for it's size.

Perhaps it is not up to operating temp............

Warning I have 0 experience with the 1115...............

Billswan
16/1 Metro DI at work 900rpm and 7000watts

10/1 Omega in a state of failure

bobansen

Quote from: billswan on March 19, 2012, 04:19:15 AM
Hello bob

You do not say if you are experiencing engine oil consumption?

With only 60 hours run time I would agree that the rings may not yet have seated.

Is the engine loaded properly or is it way under loaded for it's size.

Perhaps it is not up to operating temp............

Warning I have 0 experience with the 1115...............

Billswan

Hi Bill, yes on two counts, it is under loaded for the size of the head and plus it does not get very hot really.
I removed the ex valve and found a long scratch down the shaft so I fitted the one from the spare box. I will replace the cylinder head tom and try again. I will also look for some kind of a load to drop on it. see if that helps. They sure get the head bolts tight.. took me and a 2ft tube to break the grip.   

playdiesel

#3
What Bill said x2. Engines that are cold, not loaded or not broken in may slober from exhaust and you have all three conditions. Not all engines will do it but I would say most. It looks like engine oil but is actualy a mixture of soot, non-fully burned fuel, oil and who knows what else ??? A long exhaust routing also gives much area for liquids to condense and run back to a low area.
Fume and smoke addict
electricly illiterate

Ronmar

X3...  Especially for a new engine.  Otherwise known as "slobber"

Do you have a way to add load to it?  If it is conected to a generator, electric baseboard heaters make a great load.  I would say add load up to at least 75% of the engines HP capacity, and run it like that for as long as possible.  This of course will cost you some in added fuel, but should push the op temp up where it belongs to break the engine in.  That is a drawback of these engines, at least with the installed radiator. They have no thermostat, so low load = lower op temp.  A thermostat would help with slobber at lower loads, if the engine can still maintain a higher op temp...   
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

mobile_bob

i don't know what you are using for a cooling system, but x4 on the light load and cold operation causing a problem

never had any problem with slobber on my 195, however i have a pressurized captive cooling system that keeps the engine
at a minimum of 205 deg F.  "and" i rarely ran it at anything less than 100% load.

of course a 195 is much easier to load up than an 1115

bob g

Tom Reed

Well make that x5 and a most rare unanimous opinion on the internet.
Ashwamegh 6/1 - ST5 @ just over 4000 hrs
ChangChi NM195
Witte BD Generator

Tom

playdiesel

Quote from: Tom on March 19, 2012, 05:52:23 PM
Well make that x5 and a most rare unanimous opinion on the internet.

Well, not exactly >:( We cannot agree on how to spell SLOBER,,

Come to think about it Ron may be right???  ??? Hmm, think he is right? one B makes long "o" Two Bs make short "o"  ::) ::)
Fume and smoke addict
electricly illiterate

Carlb

My Projects
Metro 6/1  Diesel / Natural Gas, Backup Generator  
22kw Solar in three arrays 
2.5kw 3.7 meter wind turbine
2 Solar Air heaters  Totaling 150 Sq/Ft
1969 Camaro 560hp 4 speed automatic with overdrive
2005 Infiniti G35 coupe 6 speed manual transmission

Ronmar

Quote from: mobile_bob on March 19, 2012, 04:21:49 PM
of course a 195 is much easier to load up than an 1115

bob g

I had to order another 6' baseboard heater from Surplus Center to make my loadbank large enough to fully load my 1100...
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

bobansen

What are you lot like when you all respond.... ha ha ha  I am still smiling from reading the SLOBER.. sorry replies...
Anyway good news. put new valve in (not sure if the old contributed to the smoke) and ran it up without the rad fan to almost boiling point. Loading is a bigger issue.. these engines have got sooooooooooooo much power in reserve its hard to load it. whatever I throw at it, it just sits there chug-chug-chug. not even the slightest hint of a fart. Up till now no smoke or slober so we are on the right track. Heat and Load combined is the answer.
Also fitted a inline stat to keep temp up so now its fingers crossed.
Tks again for all your help
Smilin Bob

Ronmar

Baseboard heaters(250 watts per foot) or hot water heater elements(up to 4500W) are both fairly cheap for making load banks.  The baseboards are easier as you don't have to plumb them into something, but a little more expensive per KW.   I just have mine on the cinderblock wall of my generator shed.  4500W of baseboard cost about $60 + shipping from SurplusCenter, Perhaps cheaper if you find them at local garage sales.  A single 4500W hot water element costs about $15 at the local hardware store, but you need to install them inside a flooded tank and dissipate the heat.  I just got a surplus hot water tank in excellent condition with two bad elements given to me(elements went out and they decided to upgrade to a larger tank)  I am going to incorporate that into my generator shed as a loadbank/load dump to make added hot water... 

IMO, No one who messes with a generator should be without a proper loadbank for breakin, testing and maintenance...  "Boy this thing is running funny, will it take full load?"
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

playdiesel


My 1115/15KW stand by set is test run every other week. I load it by running the shop for a couple hours. Load varies with what is going on but when I run the big lathe I can realy tax it when 10HP is started across the line 

Amazes me how many stand by generators are left to sit for years yet are expected to start with the turn of a key and produce power ???.
Fume and smoke addict
electricly illiterate

Ronmar

Quote from: playdiesel on March 22, 2012, 05:51:35 AM
Amazes me how many stand by generators are left to sit for years yet are expected to start with the turn of a key and produce power ???.

Probably the biggest killer of portable generators(or any power equipment) IMO.  Look at lawnmowers, same basic engines, but with proper maintenance they last for many many years.  They also get used for half the year every year...
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

TimSR2

5000 watt 230v construction heaters are usually available for around 50 dollars. They make a great cheap resistive load.