News:

we are back up and running again!

Main Menu

Sticky fuel rack

Started by bschwartz, April 01, 2011, 04:32:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

bschwartz

O.K. at around 1500 hours, my fuel rack is getting sticky from polymerized WVO.
No problem, as I just put on my spare new pump.

All I need to do is take apart the old one, clean things out, and I'm back in business.

Top apart....metering valve etc... check.

Bottom.....uh.... er...... grrrrrrr.......

Anyone have any advise about how to get the ring out of the bottom to remove the innards?
- Brett

Metro 6/1, ST-5 - sold :(
1982 300SD
1995 Suburban 6.5 TD
1994 Ford F-250 7.3 TD
1950s ? Oilwell (Witte) CD-12 (Behemoth), ST-12
What else can I run on WVO?
...Oh, and an old R-170

Tom Reed

Same results here, a good soaking with Marvel Mystery Oil dissolved the goo and all is well a few hundred hours later.
Ashwamegh 6/1 - ST5 @ just over 4000 hrs
ChangChi NM195
Witte BD Generator

Tom

Carlb

You can put the IP inside a clear plastic bag when you go to remove the clip. This way if it pops it will more than likely be captured inside the bag and may save you quite a lot of time looking for it.

My Projects
Metro 6/1  Diesel / Natural Gas, Backup Generator  
22kw Solar in three arrays 
2.5kw 3.7 meter wind turbine
2 Solar Air heaters  Totaling 150 Sq/Ft
1969 Camaro 560hp 4 speed automatic with overdrive
2005 Infiniti G35 coupe 6 speed manual transmission

JohnF

If you have a drill press. put the pump upside down on the press table, put a bolt into the chuck and press down the centre portion (I call it the compression plate) of the pump assembly.  That will leave the "O" clip clear.  Now look for the indentation around the edge of the pump body and force a small screwdriver into that - it will help you pry the "O" clip out.  Put a cloth over the top when doing this, it will prevent the "O" clip from hiding on you.  Next problem is getting the bottom parts out - as others have said, soak with solvent for a couple of days but don't be surprised if it doesn't work - what keeps the bits together is deposits between the pump body and the compression plate   If it seems stuck you need to employ brute force - take a large piece of wood and smack the bottom of the pump down onto it - the idea being that kinetic force will make the pieces move.  You might need a LOT of force - one of my pumps took a good couple of days of alternate smacking and soaking.  Eventually you will see the compression plate move down to be level with the bottom of the pump, then move to two pieces of wood and do the same thing - the idea being to allow the compression plate to move out of the pump body.  At some point you will have enough of it out that you can (gently) grip it with pliers and twist it out. 

Not something for the faint of heart - it takes a lot of very hard blows to get things moving.
John F
www.woodnstuff.ca
Listers, Changfas, Redstones, AG's and anything else diesel I can get my hands on!

bschwartz

Great advise guys!! Thanks.
"If you have a drill press......"  Hee hee... I can't imagine having engines like these, and NOT having a drill press.

It's soaking now, and I'll mount it in the drill press later and give it a try.

Fortunately, I've never lost a clip that went flying across the shop to be lost forever  ::) ::) ::)
- Brett

Metro 6/1, ST-5 - sold :(
1982 300SD
1995 Suburban 6.5 TD
1994 Ford F-250 7.3 TD
1950s ? Oilwell (Witte) CD-12 (Behemoth), ST-12
What else can I run on WVO?
...Oh, and an old R-170

mike90045

Soak in acetone or trans fluid, and try to pump some into the innards, and see if it frees up in a day or two, you may not need to take it apart.