6/1 Listeroid Kit Success

[Zero_G]

I purchased a 6/1 Indian Listeroid kit from Dieselgman. It only took a few days to arrive in Houston from Kansas City. I pulled the rod out and checked the clearance and it was .006, so I just put it back together. The only thing that I did to the crank bearings was to flush clear oil through them to remove the gunk, and I cleaned out the crankcase. It took me a couple of tries to get the piston clearance right. The lower oil ring ended up broken, as indicated by the chunk of it that I luckily spotted in the sump, so I had to tear it back down. The other issues that I had were the rocker arm alignment, and fuel tank plumbing. Gary (Dieselgman) was kind enough to send me a new oil ring, a couple of different rocker assy's, and some more plumbing items. I got it all together and fired it up today. As an extra challenge, today was the coldest day in years. Anyway, it fired up on the second try. Assisting was Injin Man, who also bought one, but hasn't assembled his yet.

[injin man]

I'm better looking in person!

I'm pulling the Flywheels out in the shop today on mine.
Crank and the Guvna are next.

[AdeV]

Nice work - and that's pretty smooth for a 'roid! 

[playdiesel]

You guys are having too much fun

Hate to break the news but yer both ugly 

Lookslikeyou got a good one there. Good luck with whatever your plans are for it.

[dieselgman]

Good job guys! Glad to see these come to life.

Best of luck putting her to work!

dieselgman

[WGB]

Nice! Was there a logo or brand label on you "kit".
Thanks

[dieselgman]

WGB, these kits are plain vanilla (higher quality export) versions. Branding does not differentiate this equipment anyway since they are all pulling from the same parts pools (with very few specialized exceptions). Those Indian blokes won't ever tell you the full story, I only know from a decade of experience dealing with a bunch of them.

dieselgman

[Tom Reed]

Quantos dinero in case anyone asks.

[Zero_G]

Just under $2,000 plus shipping.

[Zero_G]

I temporarily installed my Winco 4KW gen head today and made a 1/2 hour test run (break-in run) using a 1500W space heater for load. I am using a 6-rib J-section belt around the flywheel and a 4.5" pulley on the gen head, but I have a feeling that it is not going to be heavy enough. I am going to increase it to a 10-rib, which will still leave room on my pulley for a 6-rib belt to run an automotive alternator. Voltage and frequency were good, as shown by my Kill-A-Watt, requiring minimal speed adjustment.

Next, I will install an inline thermostat from a motorcycle, a 12V water circulating pump, a radiator/fan, a small battery, and an automotive alternator to run it all.

[squarebob]

I think most of us are using a K series belt

J series = .092 between rib points   6 x .092 = .55 width belt

K series = .140 between rib points   6 x .140 = .84 width belt

I am using a 6 rib K series belt on my 6/1 GM90 without a problem.

food for thought................

Bob

[veggie]

FYI...
As I recall, the 'J'' and 'K' series are industrial belts and have a different rib spacing than the automotive belts.
They cannot be interchanged.

veggie

[squarebob]

Most automotive belts I am aware of are the "K" series.

I have purchased both of mine, one for the alternator and one for the gen head, at the auto parts store.

Bob

[playdiesel]

Lots of ways to get to a proper belt. I had a spare belt for my 2000 F-250 laying behind the seat and put it around  a 6/1 flywheel and it just so happened to be the right size to drive a ST head. Pulleys are a bit easier for me since there is an engine lathe in my shop. Nice to know that I can get a belt at any one of the 6-8 Auto parts places in town instead of a power transmission company. Been just long enough that I dont remember the spacing specs but they are out in the shop and I used an ordinary 60 degree threading tool to make the grooves. The pulley and grooving are not the rocket science that some make of it. Ratio is of course important .

[veggie]

FYI,

The attached document shows the belt groove pitch dimensions for the J, L, and M poly-V Industrial belts.

I was unable to find an automotive belt which matched these dimensions.
I personally prefer the automotive belts because of the deeper (more coarse pitch) of the grooves and what I perceive as a more rugged construction.

Be careful when buying multi-groove pulleys from industrial supply stores. The belt width is not the only determining factor.
Also check the groove Tip-to-tip spacing (pitch). If you buy the belt and pulley from the same supplier, you can check the fit visually.

veggie