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1115 questions

Started by lessersivad, November 08, 2010, 04:02:18 PM

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lessersivad

I've been getting the semi-mobile frame done for the 1115/ST15 project and I'm starting to get to the "how can the KISS method and shutdowns can be put into place" part of the project.

Initial thoughts are to use a micro switch on the oil pressure indicator "popper" in series with an adjustable (210°-250°) over temp snap switch. These will be wired to a fuel cut off solenoid valve between the filter and injector pump.

Does anyone see a problem with this type of shut down?

Will using the fuel cut off solenoid valve decrease the life of the injector pump?

Am I even remotely close to having a decent game plan?

Any and all answers, suggestions, comments, etc. are appreciated.

Thanks, Russ




vdubnut62

Stopping the fuel flow like that will eventually damage the injection pump due to cavitation.
I think it was on the Witte thread that we just had a discussion about this.
The good part is that you can cut off it's air and not hurt anything.
Ron.
When governments fear the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government, there is tyranny -- Thomas Jefferson

"Remember, every time a child is responsibly introduced to the best tools for the protection of freedoms, a liberal weeps for the safety of a criminal." Anonymous

mobile_bob

here is a step by step description of how i did it

1. remove the engine id plate from the gear cover, this will expose a rectangular opening providing access
to the governor lever

2. removed the governor spring, from the lever and the throttle pitman arm

3. removed the governor lever from the governor shaft, be careful to not over stress the shaft by using a
suitable tool to get ahold of the lever so you can remove the retaining nut.

4. reinstall the lever 180 degree's from it original position, which will have it poking out through the rectangular opening

5. get a syncrostart engine shutdown solenoid, and make a mount for it, that positions it on the right side of the gear
cover, leaving about 3-4 inches of gap between the end of the non energized solenoid and the governor lever.

6. reinstall the governor spring

7. attach to the other end of the spring a short section of sash chain

8. make an eyebolt that fits the solenoid plunger and install with a jamb nut.

9. connect the sash chain so that when the solenoid is energized and fully retracted there is a slight amount of
tension on the governor spring

10. now the engine can only be started when the syncrostart solenoid is energized, so apply power to the syncrostart
and put your oil and high temp switches with a relay to control it.

11. energize the system, which will take an override because you don't have oil pressure until it starts, the solenoid
will retract and pull the chain and spring and the engine will start, but run at a very low rpm

12. adjust the engine speed by either shortening the chain and/or the eyebolt

now when you turn off the key, or if you overheat, or if you lose oil pressure the syncro start will drop out, and the chain
and spring will relax, the governor will retract to no fuel and the engine will die, pretty much immediately.

one last thing, you can add another spring to assure the governor lever retracts, however i have not found one necessary, also
it is  a good idea to use a zip tie to secure the rubber boot to the solenoid groove, as the plunger can pop out with enough force
to yank the boot off  and the spring pops out. it is easily put back together, but the zip tie assures it will stay put.

bob g

ps. you can work on cutting off the air, however it is my belief that the changfa governors are good enough to not need
this sort of shutdown and the likelihood of a low oil pressure or overheat event happening at the same time as a governor failure
is a very unlikely event.

mobile_bob

i wonder if part of the rubber failure was due to the amount of heat in your containment?

my rubber boot is pretty thick, however it would be a good idea to provide a stop

bob g

lessersivad

Thanks for the write up Bob.

So the way I understand it with the solenoid setup it's pretty much "all or nothing" so to speak in the way of throttle control?

In other words, when starting the engine the thottle will be going to the predetermined/ preadjusted setting with the solenoid activated and off with the solenoid deactivated?

That gives me something to think about.

I was simply going to use the shut off solenoid to cut off the fuel in case of a no oil pressure or overtemp condition and use the original throttle adjustment to set the speed. That way (at least in my possibly feable way of thinking) the engine could be slowed down prior to complete shutdown under normal conditions.

That's the way I shut down my diesel cars and pickup after arriving to my destination. Supposedly letting the engine run at an idle for a few minutes allows the engine parts to stabilize temperature wise. Or so I've been told by a few truck drivers.

But, I've been wrong before.

AdeV

Quote from: lessersivad on November 09, 2010, 06:01:49 AM

That's the way I shut down my diesel cars and pickup after arriving to my destination. Supposedly letting the engine run at an idle for a few minutes allows the engine parts to stabilize temperature wise. Or so I've been told by a few truck drivers.


You should always allow turbo-charged cars a little idling time after a run, especially if you've been hoofing it. That's because the turbo gets so hot, it needs the oil flow to cool it down; if you just shut it off while it's still red hot, you could do all kinds of damage to it. Not usually the sort of damage that kills it there & then, but will cause premature failures.

I suppose, in a really extreme case, you could cause an under-bonnet fire by not cooling the turbo, if you turned it off immediately after a long period of high load.

Jens' high temperatures were caused by his sound-killing enclosure IIRC; if you can keep enough airflow around your engine, you shouldn't see rubber components failing due to temperature; at least, not any time soon.

Cheers!
Ade.
--------------
Lister CS 6/1 with ST5
Lister JP4 looking for a purpose...
Looking for a Changfa in my life...

mobile_bob

i am using two such solenoids, one set to run at 1200 and the other set to 1800 rpm

the lower setting is controlled by one side of a standard automotive dpst relay, the higher speed fed by the other side
of the same relay.

the initial power up of the system allows for the low speed solenoid to be activated, and when the relay is energized
the low speed solenoid drops out and the high speed takes over, it happens so quickly that the engine responds without
any sign of loss of rpm

bob g

lessersivad

OK. That make sense having 2. Sounds like a pretty good setup.

If you don't mind me asking Bob, what brand are they and where did you get them?

Thanks, Russ

mobile_bob

the brand name is "syncrostart"

i got them off of ebay a couple years ago, a guy had like 80 of them for 20 bucks each, i bought two and wish i would
have bought many more.

bob g