Typical inspection for new Listertoids

[veggie]

Where to start?

With the new 6/1 out of the crate, I'm wonder what are the common things to check before cranking her over.

The cylinder and top end have been inspected and are squeaky clean.
I was planning on removing the crankcase covers and inspecting for sand or debris.
What else should I be looking for ? and what adjustments need to be double checked?

Thanks,
Veggie

[lowspeedlife]

Veggie,
Back the govenor off a few turns, they are often set to high, causing a potential runaway situation. Look under the piston with a mirror, some have found sand stuck under the piston. If you are taking apart the engine look inside the piston wrist pin for sand also & poke around in the corners of the crankcase with a pick or nail, especialy if the crankcase is painted inside, this is often done to trap the sand & just as they don't clean the sand out well, they also don't do the painting well allowing it to come loose at some time in the future.

Good Luck on your new adventure.

  Scott R.

[mobile_bob]

just get out your hammer and a handful of nails, and recrate it before its too late!



bob g

[vdubnut62]

just get out your hammer and a handful of nails, and recrate it before its too late!



bob g

Oh no you didn't!
Man, that was cold Bob!
Ron

[veggie]

just get out your hammer and a handful of nails, and recrate it before its too late!



bob g

LOL 
Bob, you crack me up sometimes.

Veggie

[BruceM]

All of the Listeroids warrant a complete tear down inspection, IMHO. You can find all sorts of problems, and likely will. 

There are a number of hiding spots for sand. In my 6/1 there was a gob of black grease full of sand up inside the piston crown, where it could not be seen by visual inspection unless the wrist pin was removed.

There is no quality control for parts or assembly in these lovely "kits".  If you think you'll get lucky, better quit your job and head to Vegas.  If you tear her down completely, and correct problems you can end up with a sweet machine.

Best Wishes,
Bruce M
Snowflake, AZ
Metro 6/1 vintage 2002, about 1100 hrs.

[XYZER]

I have to agree with BruceM on the best procedure prior to starting a new Indian made anything. There have been so many issues uncovered you could start a web site or two on what to look for. Sand....rough crank journal...non rotating lifters....squish clearance.....liner protrusion....rocker arm aligenment....govenor cotter keys.....and did I mention sand? I know it is hard not to start it and yours may be perfect....but I doubt it!

[JohnF]

Bob, Bob, Bob,

Standing near that Changfa with all the noise must have scrambled your noodle.....

[veggie]

Update #1

I removed the crank case cover and gave the area a preliminary inspection.
I was pleased to see very little in the way of foreign material.
Could not find any trace of sand, dirt, or metal shavings.
Both the upper and lower sump areas where quite clean.

Two questions:

1] Can anyone confirm that my oil lines are positioned correctly ?

2] I was not expecting to see counterweights on the crank throws. Does this reduce vibration significantly ?

Cheers,
Veggie

>>> click to enlarge <<<

[XYZER]

They look correct to me. It also appears you have a oil slinger that supplies force feed oil to the rod journal. I would definatly add an oil filter if there is not one already. The counterbalanced crank is a good thing......they can all bounce....

[veggie]

Update #2

This is a bit confusing. All the cavities and fittings seem to be quite clean with the exception of the big end shells.
The engine was assembled and test run with debris on the bearings. Not enough to score the journal, but enough to ruin the bearing shells. The fellow I bought the engine from advised that this is common in the Indian engines. Along with other spares, he gave me a set of con rod shells in case this happened. Thankfully the contamination seems to be limited to this area only.

Veggie

>>> click to enlarge <<<

[XYZER]

They use the oil (lapping compound) from the previous 100 test runs.....

[veggie]

They look correct to me. It also appears you have a oil slinger that supplies force feed oil to the rod journal. I would definatly add an oil filter if there is not one already. The counterbalanced crank is a good thing......they can all bounce....

There is no oil filter at the moment, but I have purchased one. It has 3/8" ports. Nice little unit. (Princess auto $17)
I still need to figure our how to tube it. The stock tubing size is none standard with male flared ends.

Regarding the oil slinger. In light of what I found in the big end bearing, I will back flush the oil gallery with light oil.

Thanks,
Veggie

[veggie]

They use the oil (lapping compound) from the previous 100 test runs.....

That would make sense based on what I found in the bearing.
The particles seem to be tiny scales of babit. Almost like the bearing surface was flaking.
That would explain why there's no scoring on the journal (soft particles).
Just tiny flakes of babit floating around in the oil that they use over and over and over again.

Veggie

[XYZER]

veggie,
If you aren't going to do a complete tear down I would at least do a very aggressive flush. I have an air nozzle with a siphon tube that I can flush with solvent. Leave the rod bearing out and invest a gallon or 2 and reach up in the hard to get to spots and give a good high pressure flush. It can't hurt! Polish up your rod journal the best you can and check clearances before you assemble. I used good fuel and oil resistant hose with hose clamps for my oil filter. It isn't very high if any pressure at all. Steel tubing will crack eventually and the hose might help isolate it.