Battery Cables!

[Tom Reed]

Just to beat a once dead horse.  The larger industrial batteries will require a lot less jumpers. My system only has 3 on a 4 battery series string of 48vdc 1055ah. A lot less cells to water too.

[Lloyd]

Welding cables and automotive battery cables are not
recognized by the NEC® for use in wiring electrical
power systems.

A Caption from this white paper on PV installs.

http://www.nmsu.edu/~tdi/pdf-resources/cc66.pdf

PV resource web site updated often http://www.nmsu.edu/~tdi/Photovoltaics/Codes-Stds/Codes-Stds.html

Lloyd

[Lloyd]

Wayne,

Her ya go a it seems that NY Stae has an private contract inspection program, I found dozens of such company's by google.

You might be able to get a prefilght inspection, and or cursory advise.

http://www.theelectricalinspector.com/?pg=mission

Lloyd

[Lloyd]

A good little road map for your project with all the references to the codes.
Lloyd

Solar Photovoltaic Systems
and the
National Electrical Code©

http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/en/education/cont_ed/pv/handbook/Inspector_NEC.pdf

[mike90045]

I'm gone for a week, and look what happens !

I read the many dismal reviews of the HF crimper, and got the Canadian one eh!
Hydraulic Crimping Tool Kit 8 Ton Electric Wire Crimper

I dont know how long the link for the ebay shop will be good, not an auction
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11401.m516.l1123/7?euid=0d157ea390134d488100614aeefaaa27&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D330598048548%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123

anyway, I'm only crimping up to 1/0 wire, and this is supposed to be good for that, according to all the RV, Trailer, and Boat forums I found liking this crimper.
it's not been delivered yet - sometime this week though.

Lugs - i ordered from AZ Wind Sun http://www.solar-electric.com/teluwiha.html  for the best price around.  UL stamp on them, and tinned.

Adapter to M20 battery terminals   I'm going to have to make this from 3/4 copper pipe, tinned inside, mashed in a vise, soldered to lug, then drilled for m/20 & 3/8, and bolted to the lug and battery terminal.  Messy, but there are no lugs for M-20 that I can find, even at mcmastercarr 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#terminal-lugs/=e4tpje

As to the fine wire, that's for flexibility, so the wire does not tear the inverter terminals off, the 600V 1/0 coarse strand is very stiff.  I think I will bolt to the existing wires when I change out my battery bank.  I'm only using 1/0 for my interconnects, but again, only using 6KW @ 48V, which for my lengths, should be only about .8% loss.

And don't solder 4/0 - the wire will wick solder up inside it, and break eventually.  Good crimps are gas tight - i plan to cut one of mine apart to check it's properly mashed inside.

[mike90045]

I read the many dismal reviews of the HF crimper, and got the Canadian one eh!
Hydraulic Crimping Tool Kit 8 Ton Electric Wire Crimper

I dont know how long the link for the ebay shop will be good, not an auction
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11401.m516.l1123/7?euid=0d157ea390134d488100614aeefaaa27&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D330598048548%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123

anyway, I'm only crimping up to 1/0 wire, and this is supposed to be good for that, according to all the RV, Trailer, and Boat forums I found liking this crimper.
it's not been delivered yet - sometime this week though.

Lugs - i ordered from AZ Wind Sun http://www.solar-electric.com/teluwiha.html  for the best price around.  UL stamp on them, and tinned.

Adapter to M20 battery terminals   I'm going to have to make this from 3/4 copper pipe, tinned inside, mashed in a vise, soldered to lug, then drilled for m/20 & 3/8, and bolted to the lug and battery terminal.  Messy, but there are no lugs for M-20 that I can find, even at mcmastercarr 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#terminal-lugs/=e4tpje

As to the fine wire, that's for flexibility, so the wire does not tear the inverter terminals off, the 600V 1/0 coarse strand is very stiff.  I think I will bolt to the existing wires when I change out my battery bank.  I'm only using 1/0 for my interconnects, but again, only using 6KW @ 48V, which for my lengths, should be only about .8% loss.

And don't solder 4/0 - the wire will wick solder up inside it, and break eventually.  Good crimps are gas tight - i plan to cut one of mine apart to check it's properly mashed inside.

Could not find a "edit" button for my earlier post

Adding more pics of crimper, lugs and 1" pipe adapters (tinned in a lead pot)

[Lloyd]

I read the many dismal reviews of the HF crimper, and got the Canadian one eh!
Hydraulic Crimping Tool Kit 8 Ton Electric Wire Crimper

I dont know how long the link for the ebay shop will be good, not an auction
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11401.m516.l1123/7?euid=0d157ea390134d488100614aeefaaa27&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D330598048548%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123

anyway, I'm only crimping up to 1/0 wire, and this is supposed to be good for that, according to all the RV, Trailer, and Boat forums I found liking this crimper.
it's not been delivered yet - sometime this week though.

Lugs - i ordered from AZ Wind Sun http://www.solar-electric.com/teluwiha.html  for the best price around.  UL stamp on them, and tinned.

Adapter to M20 battery terminals   I'm going to have to make this from 3/4 copper pipe, tinned inside, mashed in a vise, soldered to lug, then drilled for m/20 & 3/8, and bolted to the lug and battery terminal.  Messy, but there are no lugs for M-20 that I can find, even at mcmastercarr 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#terminal-lugs/=e4tpje

As to the fine wire, that's for flexibility, so the wire does not tear the inverter terminals off, the 600V 1/0 coarse strand is very stiff.  I think I will bolt to the existing wires when I change out my battery bank.  I'm only using 1/0 for my interconnects, but again, only using 6KW @ 48V, which for my lengths, should be only about .8% loss.

And don't solder 4/0 - the wire will wick solder up inside it, and break eventually.  Good crimps are gas tight - i plan to cut one of mine apart to check it's properly mashed inside.

Could not find a "edit" button for my earlier post

Adding more pics of crimper, lugs and 1" pipe adapters (tinned in a lead pot)

The crimp looks good don't forget to add the glue lined heat shrink.

But what the hell is that thing bolted over the the crimp?

[mike90045]

The crimp looks good don't forget to add the glue lined heat shrink.

But what the hell is that thing bolted over the the crimp?

Glue lined Heat Shrink  was added,  and look at the 2nd photo.  I had to fab an adapter to connect to the battery terminals (M20 thread = 7/8 hole) I could not find any lugs with 7/8 holes.  And the lug was bolted to the plate, not soldered to it.

tons of photos :
http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
http://tinyurl.com/LMR-BigLug
http://tinyurl.com/LMR-NiFe

[Lloyd]

Hi Mike,

I would be more inclined to use a real tinned busbar. Go to FTZ website I'm sure they have the lug your looking for. Also cooper pipe used in plumbing, is not the same grade as electrolytic copper busbar.

Someone posted a link on this site to a proper busbar manufacture.

Is your system going to be inspected...

Lloyd

[Tom Reed]

If he has the same inspector as I did, and likely he will, the only thing they looked on my install was the ground wire. And that was limited to "Does that wire go to the panels on the roof?" I'll second that vote for the bus bar.