8/1 teardown

[WGB]

There appears to be a faint parting line in the deck about 1/8"-ish inch from the bore that I took to be the join between a sleeve and the cylinder block, but perhaps that's just an artifact of the head gasket.  I looked down in the water jacket and there's no machined surface in there, so I guess I stand corrected about it being sleeved.

I don't know what brand it is.  The data plates and indeed the sump cover are no help.  I'm going to decline to say whom I bought it from because there's one concern I have about it, and if it turns out to be a genuine problem I want to work it out with the vendor before I talk about it in an open forum.  I don't like it when people slag vendors in public without giving the vendor a chance to address a problem.

That said, the crate had "M.K. Engineers" on it -- does that mean anything to anyone?

So I have an unusual head stud arrangement?  That worries me a little from a replacement parts standpoint....

That is a stand up position with the vendor, you're a good man!
Hope all works out for you.

[XYZER]

So I have an unusual head stud arrangement?  That worries me a little from a replacement parts standpoint....

I believe the originals had 7 studs. I have seen some also with covers or plates bolted on the side of the cylinder for the water passage that can be removed. I need to look at one of my "listeroid" head gaskest because I believe all of the newer gaskets for the 5 stud will work on the 7 stud(no they don't)(the pics at central main are 5 only). Just get some spare gaskets!

[cgwymp]

I believe the originals had 7 studs. I have seen some also with covers or plates bolted on the side of the cylinder for the water passage that can be removed. I need to look at one of my "listeroid" head gaskest because I believe all of the newer gaskets for the 5 stud will work on the 7 stud(no they don't)(the pics at central main are 5 only). Just get some spare gaskets!

The vendor said that they had these engines made as close to Dursley specs as they could manage, so I guess he was telling me the truth!  :-)

I figure once I get it apart and inspected, I'll order up some spares -- several of each for some things.

Cheers!

[quinnf]

That's right.  The British engines had 7 studs.  The Indians for some reason settled on 5 studs, and only in the past couple of years have I seen a few manufacturers offering 7-stud cylinders and heads.  Torque specs will be different for the two.  When it comes time to reassemble, make sure you know which configuration the torque specs you have are for.  The 5-stud head is about 160 ft-lbs, the 7 stud is around 120 or 130 ft-lbs.

Quinn

[quinnf]

. . . and of the 7-stud cylinders, none I've seen so far has been sleeved.

Quinn

[Apogee]

Cgwymp,

Thanks for sharing.

Certainly no worse than others that I've seen.

Since it's new, I'm curious what you paid for it? 

Did you have it shipped direct from India, and if so, what did it end up costing to do so?  Also, where are you located?

If the vendor is here in the US, does he have additional stock?

Please let us know.

Thanks,

Steve

[veggie]

There appears to be a faint parting line in the deck about 1/8"-ish inch from the bore that I took to be the join between a sleeve and the cylinder block, but perhaps that's just an artifact of the head gasket.  I looked down in the water jacket and there's no machined surface in there, so I guess I stand corrected about it being sleeved.

I don't know what brand it is.  The data plates and indeed the sump cover are no help.  I'm going to decline to say whom I bought it from because there's one concern I have about it, and if it turns out to be a genuine problem I want to work it out with the vendor before I talk about it in an open forum.  I don't like it when people slag vendors in public without giving the vendor a chance to address a problem.

That said, the crate had "M.K. Engineers" on it -- does that mean anything to anyone?

So I have an unusual head stud arrangement?  That worries me a little from a replacement parts standpoint....

I have never heard of anyone machining the deck and the sleeve after the sleeve has been installed.
With these engines, the head clearance is adjusted by adding gaskets at the base of the cylinder.

Veggie

[veggie]

I think what you are seeing there is a boss on the bottom of the cylinder that mates with the hole in the crankcase. I don't think it's a sleeve.
I am curious about it possibly being cheaper to replace the entire cylinder ..... why would that be ? I specifically wanted a sleeved engine because it seemed more economical to service.

On the bright side, you can probably run a pressurized cooling system as you don't have the lower o ring between coolant passages and cylinder wall.

Jens

Jens,

Note that I was comparing the cost of re-boring a non-sleeved cylinder vs. the price of replacing it.

- Re-Bore an existing worn cylinder (If you can find an oversized piston) estim. $125
- New cylinder c/w liner $129 (I assume a non-sleeved cylinder may be even cheaper)
- New Liner $79

So if cgwymp wears out his cylinder, it's probably cheaper to throw it away than to re-bore it.

Example prices here....
http://www.generatorsales.com/order/lister-parts.asp

I think most users would prefer a replaceable liner, but the manufacturing cost is probably lower for the non sleeve design. Hence recent change in offerings from the various Indian mfrs.

Veggie

[mobile_bob]

dry sleeves such as those used to repair a cracked, damaged or thin bore are very thin
something on the order of an eighth inch or so, you overbore the cylinder, freeze the dry liner
and shove it home, the excess is cut off with the boreing bar either just prior to boreing the newly sleeved
bore to size or immediately afterwards.

the advantage of a dry liner insert over just a plain cast block is you can spec whatever allow you want the dry
sleeve to be made out of and in doing so get a superior wear characteristic over the questionable indian cast iron
that may well have inclusions or voids that do not machine out cleanly.

a dry fit liner that is put in by a qualified machinist is almost impossible to see after he has finished the top and bored
the thing to size, most machinist overbore for the liner and leave a small step and the bottom of the cylinder for the
liner to register against, so you cannot tell from the bottom whether it has a liner or not.

i have no idea if this particular engine has such a dry liner, but if it did, i would expect far better wear characteristics from
it than a plan indian cast cyliner bore.

bob g