Well, I'll post a couple shots, and let the questions & suggestions start.
(Please suggest before I get any further down a wrong path)
After pour, and some work done. The 2 small sheds roofs, nearly meet, creating a "breezeway" between the 2 buildings. That's a 3,000 gl water tank on it's side, freshly delivered.
The shop is tall enough, that I could build a 2 story house inside!
major gear under way:
400AH 48 battery bank, XW6048 inverter, MSTristarMPPT60, 15 Evergreen 200. Metro 6/1 w5KW alternator@240VAC. Will power the shop tools, water pumps, misc light, and beer fridge.
WOW ;D.
Quote from: mike90045 on December 10, 2009, 12:05:02 AM
That's a 3,000 gl water tank on it's side, freshly delivered.
Gee Mike, I thought that was the empty propane tank from your BBQ. :D
That is an impressive setup. Nice big workshop!
Very cool!
Is that in an undisclosed location?
Quote from: WGB on December 10, 2009, 03:48:13 PM
Is that in an undisclosed location?
Uh, yes (unless I've somehow left the GPS data in the image comments) until I have my security system in place. [me, cell ph, and sidearm]
Northern Calif.
You're in Northern California?! Do you know Jim? :D
Quote from: rcavictim on December 10, 2009, 07:44:03 PM
You're in Northern California?! Do you know Jim? :D
Not yet, after I move up there, I'll have more time to roam the neighborhoods.
Roll-Up-Door - aka "Objet d'Art"
We had a minor setback with securing the big storage building, the roll-up door contractor dropped the door from 18', turning it into an "Objet d'Art" and it will be a while before a replacement is installed. Nobody injured.
Genset was delivered Tuesday, I'll get eyes on it about the 26th. So far I know I need 7 quarts of oil, I'll get some plumbing elbows and nipples to rig up a psudo hopper to run it a little bit. Any idea of the water jacket capacity of the Metros ? 2 gallons, 12 gallons ?
Still un-decided about water pump, need to move 7,000, 80' uphill, from pond, to storage tanks, to get enough head to gravity feed 2 acres drip irrigation. Then another 7,000 the next week... I suspect I'm looking at a big Grundfos CR5-5 and trying to decide on a single phase motor, or a 3 phase, with an electronic single-three phase driver module.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Drives/GS2_(115_-z-_230_-z-_460_-z-_575_VAC_V-z-Hz_Control) (http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Drives/GS2_(115_-z-_230_-z-_460_-z-_575_VAC_V-z-Hz_Control)) Wondering if anyone has had experience with the 1-3 modules, or if they are junk (any brand considered)
Mike,
3-phase motors are the way to go if you can for your pump. Forget any 1 to 3 phase converter if it is possible to put a 3-phase generator head on your prime mover. That will be much more efficient and also reliable. If the wire run is long go with high voltage.
QuoteAny idea of the water jacket capacity of the Metros ? 2 gallons, 12 gallons ?
Less than 2 gallons.
I'm in Northern CA also, 9 miles north east of Nevada City on the North San Juan Ridge near Malakoff Diggins.
automation direct has a solid reputation in industry, i would be very surprised to find out they
sell anything that is junk and not up to the task it was designed for, however
you might want to talk to them or the manufacture about a specific use just to be on the safe side.
bob g
Mike- I'm Probably off track, but your pumping efficiency would be better with a pump driven directly off a Listeroid or whatever.
Then just match your horses and head in feet along with friction head loss for your pipe run size at that flow rate with an appropriate centrifugal pump...
Bruce M
Quote from: BruceM on December 17, 2009, 01:47:36 PM
with an appropriate centrifugal pump...
It's getting the appropriate pump, mounting it, maybe the electric is easier.
More pics, up at my facebook page.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030352&id=1196643274&l=896fc017f1
Great looking engine!
Mine came from Sam also, did he do all the modifications for you?
Love the electric start mod! Where did you get it!? Who has a ring gear like that? I want one!
I agree, Mike, running wire is way easier than plumbing, but you'll sure get more water moved for your fuel with the mechanically driven pump. Good luck on the plumbing, and keep the pipe size up so you don't add much head from it. There are some good online calculators for that.
Best Wishes,
Bruce
Quote from: mbryner on December 28, 2009, 10:05:15 AM
Love the electric start mod! Where did you get it!? Who has a ring gear like that? I want one!
I already have a call into Sam on that, I'll let everyone know.
Maybe Mike will have input and price too.
Quote from: WGB on December 28, 2009, 10:40:34 AM
Quote from: mbryner on December 28, 2009, 10:05:15 AM
Love the electric start mod! Where did you get it!? Who has a ring gear like that? I want one!
I already have a call into Sam on that, I'll let everyone know.
Maybe Mike will have input and price too.
Looks like the ring gear was painted with the same green putty as the rest of the engine was. The 12v gear was likely installed by the engine mfgr. No charging system, but I think I'd just as soon have the battery charged off a charger from the 240 from the genset. One flywheel has grooves cut for the serpentine belt.
I priced this out so long ago, I forgot what the 12 starter was, but it was real cheap, otherwise, I would not have gotten it.
Only odd thing is, the ENGINE slides on the frame, to adjust the belt tension. I'd have thought the alternator would, but no slots under it's screw holes. I'll check the engine side tomorrow.
Pardon my ignorance, but who's Sam? The starter isn't hard to do. It is difficult to get a ring gear like that!! I'm willing to pay a bit for one right now if you have a supplier.
Marcus
Quote from: mbryner on December 29, 2009, 02:30:46 AM
Pardon my ignorance, but who's Sam? The starter isn't hard to do. It is difficult to get a ring gear like that!! I'm willing to pay a bit for one right now if you have a supplier.
Marcus
Sam Crosby aka lobstamang on ebay. Dealer of Listeroids in Maine for a long time. Prices were very good.
Quote from: mbryner on December 29, 2009, 02:30:46 AM
Pardon my ignorance, but who's Sam? The starter isn't hard to do. It is difficult to get a ring gear like that!! I'm willing to pay a bit for one right now if you have a supplier.
Marcus
"Sam Crosby" <Gotts@gwi.net> http://www.metropwr.com/index.html
Sorry Marcus, don't get too excited about the ring gear, I've been looking for one for a year now. had CMD ask Atul about a retro-fit kit, 7 or 8 months ago, no luck. Stationary engine parts in the UK sells a retro kit but the price + the exchange rate + shipping is really expensive. But they do sell the ring gear for 143.00 gbp after exchange thats $205.00. the starter is 153.00 gbp. these are for a 20 inch ring gear. they also sell a "specally cast" 20 fly wheel that has no holes in it & uses taperlock bushings with a ring gear installed that weighs 110 kilos for 199.00 gbp, but when i checked a few minutes ago they had none of any of these in stock. I don't know what size flywheel you have but our best chance is to get a few of us together & get Mike (listeroidsUSA1) to hobb us a few. personally I would like them with a 8-10 pitch so we could use a standard ford or chevy starter & not have to deal with the metric starters. HOW 'BOUT IT MIKE??
I did find a supplier in New Zeland I think that had a ring gear that was just a 1/4 inch in diameter smaller than the Stationary parts ring gear, think it was a 14 pitch, thats been some time back but they would never reply to my requests for info though I was willing to buy 10 to get the one I wanted.
Scott R.
Yes, 1-2 years ago I asked Mike about it and he said no. I also just asked Sam Crosby this week, and he said it's not a retrofit kit. Different flywheel. There's a company in the UK that makes electric start kits, but they also require a new flywheel. Shipping killed all those ideas. I'll just get a 350 chevy flexplate and starter and have someone help me weld up a frame.
Marcus
The flywheel has some big lugs cast into it, to hold the gear:
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs159.snc3/18655_1204535512322_1196643274_30508870_1386402_n.jpg)
You big lug! Ohhh I was talking about the picture. :D
That's interesting Mike, that's the first i've seen of a smaller than flywheel sized ring gear attached to a listeroid. So If you can you give us some pictures of where the starter motor bolts onto the engine?. thanks.
Scott R.
Quote from: lowspeedlife on January 02, 2010, 04:36:26 PM
.... So If you can you give us some pictures of where the starter motor bolts onto the engine?. thanks.
Scott R.
Well, it bolts on right below the tappet deck.
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs139.snc3/18655_1201185868583_1196643274_30501208_2025309_n.jpg)
But I don't have any shots of that. next trip, late Feb. I'll get some shots of it then.
Meantime, it gives me time to get some gadgets ordered from Utterpower or somewhere to perform the teardown & cleaning with. (tappet guide jack). Do the cotter keys on the lower connecting rod need to be replaced each time ? (I guess so, being made in sandville).
When I was a younger man.... I worked at a trans shop! Great learning experiance...
At the risk of over simplifying.... Replacement Ring Gears for standard trans flywheels (GM as well
as others) cost less than $20.00 dollars. I know this is still true as I replaced the Clutch in my Truck
last year and installed a new ring gear then it was $16.00 at NAPA.
They are easy to remove and install. Heat and drive off with a punch... Heat and drop in place to
install. Ofcourse this is on a flywheel designed for it. But if you can create (Machine) an appropriate
Diameter and shoulder you will be able to service it easily in the future and make use of an over the
counter starter of a few different designs.
I to would have ordered the electric start option if it were me.... Just thought I might mention the DIY
potential of parts store stuff.
Rob
Rob:
i concur!
there are so many heat and fit parts in my trade it isn't even funny
heat and fit ring gears are common
same for cam gears,
all sorts of brgs
even the old car axle brgs, that had the little collar that retained them
you split them with a chisel to remove, replaced the brg, and heated the new collar
and slipped it right down the axle shaft, into place, let er cool and she is locked for the life
of the brg.
lots of options if one puts his mind to it.
bob g
Mike, my tappet guides came out pretty easily without a puller after a good cleaning and some penetrating oil. Round jaw vice grips with dull teeth did the trick. Replace the cotter pins on the rod bolts, their cheap.
Thanks, Geno
Quote from: Geno on January 03, 2010, 06:09:38 AM
Mike, my tappet guides came out pretty easily without a puller after a good cleaning and some penetrating oil. Round jaw vice grips with dull teeth did the trick. Replace the cotter pins on the rod bolts, their cheap.
Thanks, Geno
Mine also came right out Mike.
Quote from: rl71459 on January 02, 2010, 09:49:07 PM
When I was a younger man.... I worked at a trans shop! Great learning experiance...
At the risk of over simplifying.... Replacement Ring Gears for standard trans flywheels (GM as well
as others) cost less than $20.00 dollars. I know this is still true as I replaced the Clutch in my Truck
last year and installed a new ring gear then it was $16.00 at NAPA.
Rob
Yup! ring gears are cheap, if you can find one that will fit your application. My flywheels are 20 inches in diameter, not many ring gears at the NAPA of that diameter, in fact, they could not find any in their parts catalog near that diameter. My wheels don't have any "lugs" made onto them to machine to the diameter required to hold the gear. So I'm left with paying $200.00 plus shipping & using the meteric starter, re-finding the 14 pitch gear I found previously, buying that & attempting to locate a starter to work with it, or having one made, in the pitch I want & going from there. I guess there is another option, machining an adapter to hold a clutch type flywheel between the engine flywheel & crankcase, but that will push my flywheel farther out & add weight, adding stress to my crankshaft & I don't like that idea.
It appears the starter bracket bolts to the three bolts that hold the crankshaft bearing carrier to the crankcase. I have no personal experiance with them but remember someone saying that puts undue stresses on the bearing carrier & the bolts, so watch out for loose nuts/studs in that area.
Scott R.
Just an idea. How about checking the parts departments of heavy equipment dealers like Caterpillar, IHC, etc. Perhaps these machines, like bulldozers I'm thinking have larger ring gears on their larger flywheels.
QuoteJust an idea. How about checking the parts departments of heavy equipment dealers like Caterpillar, IHC, etc. Perhaps these machines, like bulldozers I'm thinking have larger ring gears on their larger flywheels.
Not a bad idea. I'll look into it.
Quote from: rcavictim on January 04, 2010, 10:44:27 AM
Just an idea. How about checking the parts departments of heavy equipment dealers like Caterpillar, IHC, etc. Perhaps these machines, like bulldozers I'm thinking have larger ring gears on their larger flywheels.
And very large price!
Old tractors are popular now and prices are reasonable for IH, Case, Oliver, etc.
Many folks on the internet sell parts.
Check some ring gears for the old 2 cylinder John Deeres, the fly wheels are pretty doggone big. Aftermarket might be cheaper that for a big Cat.
Ron
Glad I got some of you guys thinking outside of the box!
Box? Box? what box? ::)
Ron
Shaft Collars !
I got 3 of them, from McMaster-Carr. I went with the split style, not the setscrew. I figured the split style would grip a lot more than a set screw would. I hope to never find out. The 2" fits the crank well, and the size is good - nearly makes a perfect cover/shield/retainer for the gib keys. Pics next week, they are still in the cam, and I'm going to Mass to visit my folks for a week - hey any members out on the Cape - that's near my folks.
Mike