Hi everyone, When I bought my boat, I got a bunch of spare parts (a storage unit in fact) including a Changfa r170a diesel motor (yay!)
I've had a tough time researching it, I found that it's water cooled, (yay!) but it's pull start and I'd really like electric. Is it possible to convert it? Anyone have any links for parts suppliers/esp accessories
Hi all,
I've just installed electric start onto a r165, the kit was for a r175. Flywheel & starter fit a treat once you remove the fuel tank and hopper. had to lift hopper by about 1/4" and fuel tank at lest 1/2" to clear the larger flywheel. Other bonus is that it now runs a lot smoother. kit cost me $85.00 plus postage, but thats here in Oz.
Hope this helps,
uber39
Yes, thanks very much. How'd you lift it? just shim it with washers or something?
(sorry if that's dumb, I really haven't looked into the motor much yet.
I just made 2 gaskets from 1/8" rubber sheet for the hopper and made brackets for the fuel tank. Fuel tank will be removed soon when its in its final resting spot, I just keep running out of time to get this thing finished. Winter will over before I get it done.
uber39
Hey there! Pictures or it never happened!
I've been thinking the same thing for my R175a. Was thinking of using a golf cart starter-generator, available at Amazon.com. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Generator-250-400-30083-69a-30083-69b/dp/B004MNMWNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344291319&sr=8-1&keywords=golf+cart+starter+generator (http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Generator-250-400-30083-69a-30083-69b/dp/B004MNMWNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344291319&sr=8-1&keywords=golf+cart+starter+generator)
Just have to rig up a remote compression release set up on a time-delay relay and I think it would be pretty easy to do.
Quinn
Quinn, isn't that thing just the equivalent of an old automotive type generator?.
Ron.
It's a starter/generator. You're also going to need the regulator at around $60 to go with that. They are extremely inefficient and will end up spinning around 10k rpm to get enough torque to spin the engine. I have one on a Wisconsin engine on a Bolens tractor and it's a huge drag on the engine.
I had one of the starter/gens on a Kohler that powered an old Massey Ferguson lawn tractor, always ran down the battery after a few days & never did get it sorted out
just pulled the cables every time I was done for the day.
Ron.
Quote from: Tom on August 06, 2012, 06:27:24 PM
It's a starter/generator. You're also going to need the regulator at around $60 to go with that. They are extremely inefficient and will end up spinning around 10k rpm to get enough torque to spin the engine. I have one on a Wisconsin engine on a Bolens tractor and it's a huge drag on the engine.
Tom,
Thanks for the input. I'll proceed carefully, then. The units I commonly see (e.g. the ones sold on Amazon) have size A v-belt pulleys mounted on them for direct connection to the engine. So since they would be cranking a gas engine of up to about 20 HP through compression, there should be plenty of torque available to spin up a small diesel with compression released.
I'm not interested in the /generator side of the unit, just in a starter that can be belted to the flywheel and then left to freewheel with no load on it while the engine's running. Other starter options requre the use of some sort of engagement device and a drive wheel, etc. which I'd like to avoid, since I intend to enclose the engine in some sort of shroud (Have you ever heard an R175A run? Like shaking a coffee can full of rocks. :o ). The R175A I'm thinking of using this on won't run long hours, so I'm not obscessed with efficiency.
Another option would be to use an auto A/C magnetic clutch to engage a modified auto starter, but the motor starter would accomplish that at less cost without hassling with turning a tapered adapter to couple a starter to the A/C clutch. So that's the method to my madness.
Quinn
Quinn
you might consider sandwiching a small block chevy flex plate between the flywheel and the
drive pulley and then mounting a chevy starter?
that might not be to difficult to do?
bob g
+1 on Bob's suggestion, Quinn, even if you're not using the generator portion of the starter/generator it will be spinning fast when the engine is at running speed and will have a lot of drag. I can really tell the difference with the 7.25 hp engine on my tractor.
Ok, maybe that's why more folks haven't done that. That's the problem with being on the cutting edge of technology. Stuff doesn't always work. And even when it does, something unexpected often arises to throw water in your face.
q.
Quote from: mobile_bob on August 08, 2012, 10:55:28 AM
Quinn
you might consider sandwiching a small block chevy flex plate between the flywheel and the
drive pulley and then mounting a chevy starter?
that might not be to difficult to do?
bob g
You wanna come over and help me wrestle the flywheel off that engine? I tried my biggest gear puller, then a brake drum puller and even gently heated it with a propane torch, and then tapped (gently, too), and no joy. Might have to build a custom puller. Maybe some J-bolts through a piece of I-beam . . .
Was thinking just belting a starter/generator off the thing would save a lot of pain.
q.
Hmmm . . . I've got the J-bolts, and a piece of 2" heavy wall square tubing . . .
if i were close i would fire up the old service van and be over in a jiffy
but alas that ain't a gonna happen my friend, we be too far apart.
i was thinking of putting the flexplate between the bolt on pulley and the flywheel, that way
you don't have to remove the flywheel?
soon as you get it sorted out, i wanna see how you did it, i got 2 of the water cooled 175's to fit
with starters and an aircooled 170 that would be nice to have electric starter on it too.
bob g
When I bought my 160 it came with a wrench to undo the flywheel nut, in the handle are two holes that line up with the threaded holes in the flywheel, insert two bolts that hold the pulley on through the holes across the crank and it pulls the flywheel. At least thats how mine works ?
uber39
Quote from: uber39 on August 09, 2012, 02:13:19 AM
When I bought my 160 it came with a wrench to undo the flywheel nut, in the handle are two holes that line up with the threaded holes in the flywheel, insert two bolts that hold the pulley on through the holes across the crank and it pulls the flywheel. At least thats how mine works ?
uber39
Ahso deska! That's what the holes are for. I'll take another look at it.
I like the little 175. It's a compact, but stoutly built little engine, and though it's not pleasant to listen to it's small enough to be enclosed in some sort of shroud or cabinet and it runs like a top.
Bob, thanks for your input. I'll see what transpires here and will take pics as I proceed.
q.
Hey Quinn
On my R180 the tool kit wrench worked just fine to first smack off the shaft nut with a 3 pound brass hammer.
Then, yes bolted across the crank shaft stub end and tightened until it was flexing, then with a straight on single whack with the same hammer off popped the flywheel.
Sorry you shy fellows - too many tapered shaft old Volvo, Rambler and early Jeep cast brake drum hubs to axle shafts and later 50's/60's Leece Nevill tapered shaft alternator pulleys taught me you do need the single heavy hammer whack.to pop them off. Never lost a bearing. But replace the bearings if in at all doubt.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Yes I just relearned that lesson removing a flywheel from a Kohler K301. It did take a 2nd whack with a 3 lb sledge hammer, but off it did come.
Thanks for the input. If I have to resort to a hammer, I hope I'm man enough to admit it like you guys. I'm not sure I am.
q.