sterling power alternator regulator [pro-d] with remote

Started by getterdone, August 17, 2011, 09:19:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

getterdone

Steve ,
thanks so much for figuring this out.
email me your address and i'll send you one of these alternators. or if you would rather have a delco 75 amp that could be possible also.
this is a picture of the delco.

getterdone

Quote from: SteveU. on August 22, 2011, 03:00:07 AM
Hi gitterdone
This alternator is set up for Negative field control currently.
Attach the Sterling white wire to the the current alternator field wire closest to the rear bearing at he very very center - the one that measured the lower voltage. Put the Sterling field circuit protection fuse into the neg field position to enable that type of circuit control useage.

If you do decide to remove the Denso factory regulator the jumper strap from the horseshoe diode rectifier assembly to the other alternator field lead has to be reattached to supply the positive power supply to magnetize the field coil windings. The voltage drop you measured from one field terminal versus the other was due to the magnetic field coil load.

On that alternator "R" terminal apparent 12 volts. Remeasure with your VOM set on AC. You will see unrectified AC voltage slightly higher than the alternator output DC voltage. This will still run a relay coil fine. But DO NOT expect to be able to pull a 12 vdc load off of here.

Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh

hi steve,
In a crude attempt to use these alternators to equlize ., I have attached one of the field wires to ground and the other [through a switch, and fuse] to the output lug. [main output]
in doing this am I making the alternator pos or neg field?   i'm just tring to understand the difference.

SteveU.

#17
Hey gitterdone the Internet just ate the long response.
An alternator stator winding/recifier assemble doesn't care whether the magnetic field coil is negative or positive of the coil load side switched. It doesn't even care if you reverse the current/polarity of the coil.

Factory regulator is set up for negative side of load control for the very good reasons of less wattage (you measured less volts here X the same current = less watts) to handle and easier switching transients from this big coil to dampen out to protect the regulator electronics. Why you should Negative field control with your Sterling too.

Thanks for the alt offer man. Already got 20 or so old brushless Elecrodyne truck alternators to play with and sold off 16,000 pounds of other type units back in 99?, 2000. And I owe one of these heavy cast iron suckers to Mobile Bob and he is s-o f-a-r a-w-a-y now from Yacolt WA.

Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh




"Use it up. Wear it out. Make do. Or do without."
"Trees are the Answer" to habitat, water, climate moderation, food, shelter, power, heat and light. Plant, grow, and harvest more trees. Then repeat. Trees the ultimate "no till crop". Trees THE BEST solar batteries. Now that is True sustainability.

getterdone

does mobile bob use 12v or 24v. i could send him one of these, if 24v is what he needs. i think it could ups for $25 or so. i don't know what they weigh. i think ups will ship 60#
what do you think?
thanks again steve.
oh and i see you are big in woodgasifiers
that will be my next project.
i'm in the reading stage right now.
i'll start gathering parts.


have a good one john

getterdone

to day i hooked up the sterling regulator.
started the listor ,switched the thing on and.......ha it worked just fine.
steve thanks for the help you have given me, i owe you one.
before i retired i worked with some smart electricians., my self as hvacr we took care of the cat plant in the mid west. when i needed system wired., or programed i had an electrician do it. that was their part of the job. i sure miss them.
i will report in a few days on how it's working.
                                                                    latter          john