sterling power alternator regulator [pro-d] with remote

[getterdone]

i just bought one.
not exactly sure how to wire it. the diagrams aren't clear for the type alternator i am using. i'm using a nippondensor 95 amp 24v.
the rotor has no windings.,no brushes.
i've been using this type with the internal regulator for about 3 years. knowing that isn't the best way to charge my open lead acid batteries. i finally saved enough money to buy a proper regulator.
i'm driving the alternator with a 6/1.,and have about 2000 hrs on it.
i did email the manufacture about this. i'll post there reply.
i was just wanting to know if any one else has used this type alternator, or has used a sterling regulator?
here is a picture of the back of the alternator.

[BioHazard]

No help here, but I've been wanting to buy one of those regulators, let us know how it works out. Good luck.

[getterdone]

sterling power emailed me back and said [i need to take it to a alternator guy to sort it out.] i think i know what to hook it to, "but" what it cost me, i'd like some advice.

[SteveU.]

Hi getterdone I be one of those "alternator guys". Mobile Bob be another. I cannot see your picture. Why?
Many alternator manufactures have used wireless, brushless spinning pole piece designs. Some where in there will be a stationary magnetic field coil. Be two leads to that coil you will need to isolate and tap into. Please post up the stickered unit model number so we can look on the Denso site for a schematic. Be a xxxxx-xxxxx number. If two numbers please give both. One will be the ND. The other the intended installed equipment PN like Volvo trucks.
Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh

[SteveU.]

Ha! Ha! Stupid me. Could not see your picture from the latest posts section.
Nice unit! Truck pad mount. Negative grounded base. Three phase Wye wound stator with power center tap. Field/trio diode supply. External phase connctor.
I really LOVE Denso's. Good news you will not have to go any farther into it for hookup. Your two magnetic coil "Field" wires are the two blue appearing screw connectors lower left side of the rectangular finned digital voltage regulator case.
Sterling on their web site says to parallel their regulator into the factory regulator. You will be connecting their F1 and F2 connection at these two screw points. I'm guessing no access through the back cover shield? Have to make your own grommeted holes. No wiring/install diagram on their web site. Which connection will be important!! The lower screw is the POSITIVE power supply to the field. The upper is the NEGATIVE control side.

Of the two removed terminal screws through the back cover to the other two regulator terminal one will be a switched turn on connection - be "IG" on the cover or sticker. The other can be an indicator light terminal "L", a remote voltage sensing, then be either "B+ or "D+". It could even be for an engine controller temperature/load cut back demand. Can't remenber it's letter. My guess is in your application you never used this 2nd terminal and would not now.

Be an easy alt to hook up BUT I DO NOT KNOW YOUR Sterling from direct experience. PM Mobile Bob if he does not chime in.

Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh

[getterdone]

thanks steveu i'll email mobile bob and see if he has any input.

[getterdone]

come on guys don't all chime in at once.

[getterdone]

Ha! Ha! Stupid me. Could not see your picture from the latest posts section.
Nice unit! Truck pad mount. Negative grounded base. Three phase Wye wound stator with power center tap. Field/trio diode supply. External phase connctor.
I really LOVE Denso's. Good news you will not have to go any farther into it for hookup. Your two magnetic coil "Field" wires are the two blue appearing screw connectors lower left side of the rectangular finned digital voltage regulator case.
Sterling on their web site says to parallel their regulator into the factory regulator. You will be connecting their F1 and F2 connection at these two screw points. I'm guessing no access through the back cover shield? Have to make your own grommeted holes. No wiring/install diagram on their web site. Which connection will be important!! The lower screw is the POSITIVE power supply to the field. The upper is the NEGATIVE control side.

Of the two removed terminal screws through the back cover to the other two regulator terminal one will be a switched turn on connection - be "IG" on the cover or sticker. The other can be an indicator light terminal "L", a remote voltage sensing, then be either "B+ or "D+". It could even be for an engine controller temperature/load cut back demand. Can't remenber it's letter. My guess is in your application you never used this 2nd terminal and would not now.

Be an easy alt to hook up BUT I DO NOT KNOW YOUR Sterling from direct experience. PM Mobile Bob if he does not chime in.

Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh

Steve i think i can hook it up, with the information you have given me.
i was waiting for Mobil Bob to email me back, but i haven't heard any thing.
i'll wait a few more days. sure don't want any smoke if you know what i mean.
in the meantime i'll research the wood gasifier., the post hear are very interesting

[mobile_bob]

sorry i didn't get your email, perhaps it is caught in my junk mail folder, i will look and see.

i am not familiar with your alternator, so i will defer to someone that knows about the NP denso products

i also have not used one of the sterling units, however i have read up on them and found  them to be comparable
in spec's and operation (for our purposes) to xantrex, amplepower, and balmar controllers.

if it were me i would disconnect the oem regulator from the field coil and connect the field to the sterling controller
i also realize that they are made to work in tandem with the oem regulator, but i would feel better myself having the sterling
take over the job exclusively.

ymmv

bob g

[getterdone]

sorry i didn't get your email, perhaps it is caught in my junk mail folder, i will look and see.

i am not familiar with your alternator, so i will defer to someone that knows about the NP denso products

i also have not used one of the sterling units, however i have read up on them and found  them to be comparable
in spec's and operation (for our purposes) to xantrex, amplepower, and balmar controllers.

if it were me i would disconnect the oem regulator from the field coil and connect the field to the sterling controller
i also realize that they are made to work in tandem with the oem regulator, but i would feel better myself having the sterling
take over the job exclusively.


ymmv

first of all thanks for the reply.
i think you are right. i should have no use for the oem reglator.
oh oh i will have to replace my fuel filters first, because my 6/1 has quit running a couple times the last couple days while charging.
i haven't cleaned my primary or secondary filter for about 2000hrs. not to bad on wvo.
the secondary filter is a small gas filter that has two in., and one out hose bib.. on the side of the filter that has two in i use the extra for the injector overflow. when i installed i did not know if it would work.2000hrs latter i guess ill replace with the same kind.
any way, i'll hook up the sterling charge regulator. i''ll post for record how it works. i''ll take pictures.


bob g

[SteveU.]

Hi gitterdone
I did some web surfing for back side pictures of your unit to try an determine terminal locations and usages.
OK. Your unit design is a "One Wire" self exciting unit. It's external termination will not be any of the world wide automotive standards I was referring to; but US/Canadian trucking as set by GM/Delco-Remy back in the 60's-70's.
So anything marked "R" or "Sta" will be a direct connection to one pre-diode rectified wild AC stator (output windings) leg. This will be that nipple? terminal. Dead with no alternator output. This could and was used to power an external Relay or heater grid for anything wanted to only have power with the engine running. Common for AG tractors and some boat to use this as an engine RPM tach pulse signal.
This "R" terminal was useful on these one wire self-exciter units to momentarily jumper flash to + hot to remagnetize the magnetic field core. Set unused too long and they would demagnatize and fade away and then the unit will not self-excite and turn itself on. OR . . . equipment park under certain power lines conditions. Or someone even flash try and jump, or hookup batteries reverse polarity. Or welding on the equipment WITHOUT alternator disconnecting. Or . . .

Yep MB is correct. You better off without the factory self-exciting regulator feature. Nice to be able to manually turn the unit on and off as you choose. Unlike your heavy flywheel 6/1 on gasoline/gasious fueled small engine a self-exciter alt can keep it from running on a cold start up with a discharged battery bank.

Now IF you should happen to have an external terminal marked "S", or "SW" in Delco speak this will mean an externally Switched to + power system turn on circuit capability. This usually DOES NOT mean you can turn it off though once charging. Only zero RPM will do that.

I AM SURE on the alternator internal FIELD TERMINALS.

Care to picture and post up a Sterling install diagram? This would really help to get some responses for those with experience.
Noboby's gonna want to say anything that would bite them in the ass if the majic smoke event happens. And this does happen quickly at 24 volt these welding/arcing/melt solid copper capable power/voltages.

Regards
Steve Unruh

[getterdone]

i'll post pictures as soon as i can.
oh and thanks steve

[getterdone]

ok here are some pictures and i took volt readings from the different terminals.

[getterdone]

i could use that external stud that has 12v ,when running ,to trip a relay for the 110v heater for veggy oil.
but first, i have to know whether or not it is a [negative or positive field control].
[says] failure to get this right will result in damage to the advanced regulator and maybe the alternator's standard regulator.

says yellow:goes to ign or 24v supply.
white:goes to the field which can be switched off and on , [to turn regulator off and on.]
brown:hooks to d+ or "ing"or "L" or"61"  says if you dont have these., hook to B+[main pos output.] of the alternator.
black/white stripe goes to negative at batt bank.
red:is the sense wire batt.,positive.
and the two black wires to be hooked to [B-][B negative]or to alternator case.
I understand all the wire hook up's [me thinks]
there is a fuse inside the regulator that has to be correct [or smoke] thats what's got me stumped.
it has to be placed right! in the neg field or pos field.
can some one help please?

[SteveU.]

Hi gitterdone
This alternator is set up for Negative field control currently.
Attach the Sterling white wire to the the current alternator field wire closest to the rear bearing at he very very center - the one that measured the lower voltage. Put the Sterling field circuit protection fuse into the neg field position to enable that type of circuit control useage.

If you do decide to remove the Denso factory regulator the jumper strap from the horseshoe diode rectifier assembly to the other alternator field lead has to be reattached to supply the positive power supply to magnetize the field coil windings. The voltage drop you measured from one field terminal versus the other was due to the magnetic field coil load.

On that alternator "R" terminal apparent 12 volts. Remeasure with your VOM set on AC. You will see unrectified AC voltage slightly higher than the alternator output DC voltage. This will still run a relay coil fine. But DO NOT expect to be able to pull a 12 vdc load off of here.

Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh