$300.00 worth of entertainment :o

[Shipo]

Dave...glad to help...and i believe this is your generator (Winco)...

http://www.wincogen.com/winco_pdf_files/winco_4ks4pc-3-a_b_parts_list.pdf

Good Luck

[BruceM]

Dave, I can run my 1/2hp submersible pump (240V single phase) on a cheapo $300  3000 watt gas Champion generator.  It does not struggle to start the pump.  You should have no issue with that load at all on this setup. 

Something is wrong that you get such a wide frequency range- governor performance issue or belt slippage. 

[prof.blink]

xzyer,that head will shrug off a 1/2 hp load. those were sold in the early 70s and were considered to be contractor quality. i had one w/cast iron brigs+straton that spun 1800. i do not see good quality heads for sale today in that size range even if you are willing to to pay. well worth sorting yours out,if it even needs work. blink

[XYZER]

Shipo,
That is exactly it! Thanks again!

BruceM,
The Hz reading was at no load. With the reports I am getting on the generator quality I will invest some time and look things over. I will probably mount a box with better recepticals and maybe a Hz meter.

All,
I sure do appricate the information and feedback. The engine was a mystery to me along with the generator head and look what I know now!

Dave

[BruceM]

Dave, the generator head does not control or vary frequency, that is ONLY a function of the spinning rpm.  It might be an artifact from a digital frequency meter (being fooled by some spikes or waveform distortion).   

[XYZER]

BruceM,
Thanks for the info. I am going to look into it and also plug a skill saw or some other 110v motor into each side and see how it behaves. I will clean up the head and put some better receptcals on it and give it a whirl. I'll keep you all posted and post a followup when it is BUFF!
Thanks again!
Dave

[mobile_bob]

you might have a loose wire to the receptical too
that might explain the shift to lower hz and lower voltage if it is intermittent
the killawatt might not get clean enough power to calculate the hz and the voltage
would be the average volts delivered via your mechanical pwm 


bob g

[BruceM]

Bob's got it right- a loose connection would explain it all.

[XYZER]

I bought the Kubota after someone posted the craigslist add......it ran fine when I looked it over got it home checked the Hz....hmmmmm put a load on it started puking oil like almost scary! I figured I had a greasy paper weight! Things are looking good!

[XYZER]

Well it has been a summer and a winter and I finally got my on the cheap remote camp battery charger/generator plan coming together. I found out the blow by was an over full condition. The manual says this larger engine uses more oil but if I run it until it quits puking I am at the smaller engine series capacity. I have replaced the oil seal on the crank handle shaft and that is fixed. In my trial runs I have discovered it has a fair leak from the crankshaft under the flywheel. I made a puller and wrench and removed the flywheel to replace the fan belt. I waffled on fixing the seal but have decided to pull the flywheel back off and just do it. It looks like O-rings are the leak problem and the seal doesn't appear to leak but I'm sure I can get one.  As you can see I have added a Leece Nevell alternator and a new frame to handle it all. I used an 8 rib automotive belt to drive it all. I have the engine speed set at 2100 rpm at 60 Hz and seems to do well. Next I will tear down the generator head and check for any issues. The receptacles are worn out and I will probably use a 20amp twist lock on a cord to connect to my ranch system and mount a couple of 110volt receptacles with a killawatt stuck in one. I have no way to set my RPM without guessing for 60 Hz. I will probably just use a volt meter for my 12 volt alternator. Looking around it is not cheap to find an 150 amp meter that is of reasonable cost.

Here is a picl of it so far
     

And a movie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=cExllSx6iqU

[Thob]

Did you find the problem with the gen head?  In the video, it appears that the meter is fluctuating wildly, that would indicate a loose connection or poor brushes (I think others have discussed those possibilities).

To measure large currents, look for a shunt:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/3020-01101-0/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMti93XXnmpha2wt56ytePgYj5BszqfqAiE%3d

For $25 it handles up to 200A, which will give 50mV across the terminals.  150A = 37.5mV.  You will need a meter that can read mV at the terminals of the shunt.  You can find shunts with other current ratings as well, nearly all of them read 50mV at their rated current and you have to do the math to convert your mV readings to current.

[XYZER]

Did you find the problem with the gen head?  In the video, it appears that the meter is fluctuating wildly, that would indicate a loose connection or poor brushes (I think others have discussed those possibilities).

To measure large currents, look for a shunt:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/3020-01101-0/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMti93XXnmpha2wt56ytePgYj5BszqfqAiE%3d

For $25 it handles up to 200A, which will give 50mV across the terminals.  150A = 37.5mV.  You will need a meter that can read mV at the terminals of the shunt.  You can find shunts with other current ratings as well, nearly all of them read 50mV at their rated current and you have to do the math to convert your mV readings to current.

Throb,
The gen head will be next. I also suspect a brush issue or something is loose. The Hz seems to fall off somwhat as it warms up. All speculation right now. I am not much into the electronics end but can fix the mechanical issues like brushes and make sure all connections are good.

Thanks for the link for the shunt. If you have a link for a meter that would match the shunt it would save me from wondering if I have picked the right one! This project has been dragging on....I looked at my original post date and it was almost 2 years ago!!!!.....

[Thob]

I guess I was thinking a DVM of just about any type - as long as it will read 50 mV with reasonable resolution.  Some of the cheaper DVMs only have 2V (or 4V) as their lowest range and something like 10mV resolution, which isn't good for reading 50mV.  You will need to connect the shunt in series with the current - the current has to flow thru the shunt.  The meter can then be connected across the shunt to read the voltage drop and calculate the current.

If you want to use a panel meter permanently  connected to the shunt, you need one that is 50mV full scale.  On the panel meters I've seen, you can (carefully) remove the plastic cover and replace the scale with your own scale (use a drawing program on a computer and print it out).  This allows you to directly read from the meter without having to do the math.  You can also use a meter rated for something like 1 mA and a series resistor sized to give you 1mA at 50mV.

Or you could go with a digital panel meter.

Are you looking to measure AC or DC current?  I was assuming DC...

[XYZER]

DC

[squarebob]

Here is where I get my meters from. 200Amp meter is $12.00 and the shunt is $16.00

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PMD-200A/200-AMP-DC-PANEL-METER/1.html

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SNT-200/200-AMP-SHUNT-50MV-200-AMPS/1.html

Bob