In search of a glow-plug for my S1100

[Crofter]

Mark, I wonder how much wall thickness there is on the threaded section of the glow plugs. It would be a bit of a chore but you might be able to turn down and rethread to a size small enough to go into the drilled out stop bolt. I will have a look at one of my spares to see if I can guess how much meat there might be there.

[listeroil]

Mark

You could have it helicoiled to 12mm x 1.25 and use one of the many available standard glowplugs.

Mick

[Crofter]

I believe there might still be a problem with a sealing shoulder for the glow plug if you went the Heli-coil route. the body of my 10M X 1.25 plug is 8mm below the raised 10 mm threaded area. This 8mm portion has the sealing seat shoulder on it.

[lowspeedlife]

my solution to the problem is to use what you call the blanking bolt (which is made to hold a wick)
and chuck it up in a lathe, drill and tap it for a pencil style glowplug like the ones used in fords 6.9 and early 7.3 diesel
engines.

Not to run this thread astray but is the hole in the plug that replaces the changeover on a 6/1 for a wick? I always wondered what that was for.

No, the plug is just to fill the hole left when they decided to stop using the change over valve & to reduce the compression ratio to the desired level.

Scott R.

[Henry W]

If the glow plug cannot be resolved why not put on a heating element on the intake manifold. If you can heat the air up enough it should fire up.

Henry

[XYZER]

my solution to the problem is to use what you call the blanking bolt (which is made to hold a wick)
and chuck it up in a lathe, drill and tap it for a pencil style glowplug like the ones used in fords 6.9 and early 7.3 diesel
engines.

Not to run this thread astray but is the hole in the plug that replaces the changeover on a 6/1 for a wick? I always wondered what that was for.

No, the plug is just to fill the hole left when they decided to stop using the change over valve & to reduce the compression ratio to the desired level.

Scott R.

I know that Scott....but the plug has a small hole drilled in the center for an unknown reason.......I thought maybe for a wick....maybe not....
Dave

[vdubnut62]

My dodge/cummins has the heated grid in the intake, works quite well. The old Deere pictured in my avatar routes the exhaust from the pony motor through the intake manifold!
Ron

[lowspeedlife]

my solution to the problem is to use what you call the blanking bolt (which is made to hold a wick)
and chuck it up in a lathe, drill and tap it for a pencil style glowplug like the ones used in fords 6.9 and early 7.3 diesel
engines.

Not to run this thread astray but is the hole in the plug that replaces the changeover on a 6/1 for a wick? I always wondered what that was for.

No, the plug is just to fill the hole left when they decided to stop using the change over valve & to reduce the compression ratio to the desired level.

Scott R.

I know that Scott....but the plug has a small hole drilled in the center for an unknown reason.......I thought maybe for a wick....maybe not....
Dave

Really? mine don't have a hole drilled in them, Maybe it's for live center to index on in the lathe?

  Scott R

[jmw]

I believe there might still be a problem with a sealing shoulder for the glow plug if you went the Heli-coil route. the body of my 10M X 1.25 plug is 8mm below the raised 10 mm threaded area. This 8mm portion has the sealing seat shoulder on it.

I am coming to the conclusion that the helicoil route is potentially the best solution for fitting a glow-plug to my S1100s.
The original thread is much longer than most M12 x 1.25 glow-plug threads so I should be able to leave quite a distance between thread and sealing face.
However, I have no experience of the helicoil product, even though I do understand how it works.
Does anyone on this forum have experience of using helicoil tread inserts? Do I need to drill-out the original thread before I put the helicoil tap in?

I think the long-term solution for having a glow-plug in S1100/S195 engines is to either:- have some specially made, or use a heater/burning in the air-intake.

Thanks for all your help and views guys.

Mark

[mobile_bob]

the helicoil kit come with a tap, installation tool and about a half dozen helicoils
the tap will have the needed drill size etched upon it.

you almost always need to drill to proper size first

be sure your casting is thick enough for this operation

bob g

[Crofter]

yes, you  very likely have to drill first. You need to do some measurements of the OD. of the heilcoil to see where it comes in relation to the existing threads. Going in hit and miss on the old threads, if that happens to be the case is not so good. Better if old threads need to disappear entirely. You will have to have the glow plug you are going to install before you start drilling away to determine how far into the combustion area the tip must project. Note that they do not seal on the threads! You will have to provide for a sealing shoulder that is dictated by the glow plug design. As Bob suggests, make sure you dont strike water or you will have a tricky sealing job indeed.

[Henry W]

With a chance of somthing going wrong with the machineing, heilocoil and sealing of the glow plug I would personaly go with a heated grid in the intake. It would be the safest and easiest way I would think.

Henry

[Crumpite]

The last time I looked, you could get them off of epay.
A nice bolt-on solution, IHMO...
Daryl

[vdubnut62]

All considered, I believe I would try the intake heater first, at the very least. There would be less irreversible changes made anyway.
there is not a lot to the darn things, as you can see, the pic is of one off a Cummins 5.9.
Ron

[Henry W]

Here are a couple intake heaters that are on ebay.

There are more.

Henry

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GENUINE-ONAN-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-HEATER-154-0712_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518cda7900QQitemZ350255479040QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


http://cgi.ebay.com/Manifold-Intake-Heater-for-Massey-Ferguson-Tractors_W0QQitemZ370353514715QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563aca28db