My "perky\cat/volvo" DC bat charger

[Lloyd]

http://www.atkinsonelectronics.com/manufacturing/product_pdfs/VRDC.pdf
VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY FOR DC VRDC
ATKINSON ELECTRONICS, INC. REV 4/03
Web Site: www.atkinsonelectronics.com Distributed by:
FEATURES
v Operates over a wide DC power range
(10.5 to 35V DC, and 24V AC)
v Adjustable thresholds for cut-in and cut-out
points between 1 to 60V DC & 0 to 150V AC
v 12 Amp SPDT relay contact
v Automatic reversible action with the cut-in,
cut-out adjustments
v Adjustable 0 to 255 sec. time delay on cut-in
v Compact size eliminates mounting problems
APPLICATIONS
v Low voltage cutoff and generator control
v HVAC heating & cooling staging
v Hydro-electric power shunt
v Battery charge controller
DESCRIPTION
The VRDC is an Adjustable Voltage Relay for DC
applications. The VRDC can be used in applications where
a varying DC voltage is used to switch an adjustable relay
such as in generator control or a low battery voltage load
disconnect. The "cut-in" voltage, "cut-out" voltage, and the
time delay value are adjusted on multi-turn potentiometers
by measuring the respective test points and adjusting the
potentiometers per the set-up instructions and chart on the
back side of last page.

[Lloyd]

Well here is "perky\cat/volvo"  final build ver.2

This build is using a Leece-Neville 270 amp/12 volt Alternator.

I thought I would share some pics.

I'll report on the numbers after she's installed

more pics to follow

Lloyd

[Lloyd]

mo pics

[Lloyd]

mo pics

[Lloyd]

mo pics

[hal]

Lloyd;

Very nice job!

I really like your new "high speed" alt pulley

[Lloyd]

Lloyd;

Very nice job!

I really like your new "high speed" alt pulley

Thanks Hal,

Good catch, I don't have air for the impact here at my little shop where I painted it so I will install the proper pulley on install, also I have to get a smaller belt for the small alt on the front end.

This unit is going to do a lot of battery charging after the 26th install date, so by September i should have some good numbers to report.

Lloyd

[Lloyd]

Actually it's just a mock-up, so I could fit it in the engine room. So I though I would share one of the tricks of the trade. Working in limited space always leads to some surprises.

I had to build a base on the stringers to mount the bat-charger...but the biggest issue was how do I get it into the engine room...... That's a whole lot of work...I have to strip it down to the bare engine, so it will fit throug a hatch, then re-assemble it in the ER.

Lloyd

[mobile_bob]

years ago, i was asked to overhaul two 8v71 detroits in some sort of boat, they required complete disassembly in place
in order to get the things down small enough to get out of the hole.

i deferred that job to detroit, let them suckers work on that one.

you boat guys never cease to amaze me! 

hats off to those that work in  such cramped quarters.

bob g

[Lloyd]

years ago, i was asked to overhaul two 8v71 detroits in some sort of boat, they required complete disassembly in place
in order to get the things down small enough to get out of the hole.

i deferred that job to detroit, let them suckers work on that one.

you boat guys never cease to amaze me! 

hats off to those that work in  such cramped quarters.

bob g

Hi Bob,

Long time no chat... sounds like you're about to get settled in.

It's all in a days work I guess...Just look at what you've done with the tri-gen, or RCA has done with his dozer-mill. I have had this project apart an back together so many times in my mind, on the bench, in design/build, and again to paint it. So just one more time to get her in the ER seems like little work to go...

The good news it's just a baby cat, bare engine no externals soaking wet, is only 124 lbs, a far cry from the 8V-71's.

But for sure that's why I like to do the job on the boat only once...sometimes it just doesn't pay to cut corners. Saving dimes can burn real dollars in the long run.

A well trained monkey can do some amazing things.

Lloyd
trained monkey

[Lloyd]

Hi All pictures soon to come.

The DcGen is installed and will be ready to fire tomorrow. It's all wired plumbed and mounted save an exhaust hose, to the overboard, and the bat temp sensor.

I was just reviewing the Perkins install manual, and it states a pair of diodes are mandatory, for the energize to run solenoid. So my Q is do I really need it. They state a 3 amp 600v diode/rectifier type in series with the + to sol., and a flyback diode to ground, across the + to neg.

Funny they don't say one is required in the starter sol. circuit. So I surmise that the starter circuit doesn't require one because the coil is only energized for a short time so doesn't have time to fully saturate. Where on the other hand the ETR sol. is on all the time and reaches full saturation, and thus can cause a back emf spike.

Because of the distance between the start/stop switches is in excess of 35 feet one way as the wire runs, I am relegated to using 40 amp relays, with diodes for suppression, for the Pre-Heat, Start sol., and the ETR sol.

My big Q is do I then really need, a diode in series and flyback diode across the ETR sol.? As the contact in the relay will stop any spike from directly hitting back on the circuit, and the 750 AmpHr battery bank acts as a big capacitor anyways. The relays are cole hersey, dc rated with silver allow contacts, and are about 4 times the rated nominal current of the switching current.

Ok EE's and diode heads, give this trained monkey so learning.

Lloyd

[Lloyd]

Today is the day I was scheduled to leave on vacation with my new DC Gen, everything is done, albeit a couple of days late.

Went for first smoke this morning.....and nothing I tell you....

Troubleshooting went like this, check the run sol. for voltage drop during cranking, that ok, we bled all both filters multiple times, the pre, and the finale.

We have clear fuel at both filter heads, at the fuel to injection pump, at the fuel return piping at the i.pump/injector return......but no fuel at the pipes to the injectors...none not even a air bubble, nor a hint of drip of fuel.

The ETR sol is working, when powered you can hear it click, and leaving it on does not warm the power cable nor the solenoid, so it's working properly.

The only thing I can think of is the rack is stuck, from the engine sitting, it was ran a the factory, but not since.

I am now officially burning vacations days, so any help would be appreciated.

Lloyd

[Henry W]

Those shut off solenoid's have been known to stick. Unscrew it and make sure the internals are moving.

Do you have a trouble shooting manual?

Henry

[Lloyd]

Hi Henry,

Thanks for the tip, that was my next step...I just didn't have the workshop manual at the boat today, So I came home to look on the computer, but can't find it.

Any info you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Lloyd

[Henry W]

Check the very first topic. I set it as a sticky so you can see what we have. We have parts manual but no service manual. Parts manual might help you see what your up against if you need to take things apart.

Did you crack the fuel inlet bleeder nut on the injector pump?

If the shut off solenoid is fine when you check it check the fuel line routing.

Last resort, Clean outside of injector pump and pull it off  and put it in a container completly submerged with kerosine sitting up right and let it soak for a while. Than while wearing safety glasses and keeping hands away from the delivery valves and try moving the lifters on the bottom of the pump. If they move keep working them while pump is submerged. This might help prime the pump and get kerosine flowing in the delivery valves.

Henry