Slobbery exhaust - new engine

[veggie]

When I removed the "pepper can" exhaust to begin installing the new pipe /muffler system, I noticed a lot of wet soot and oil throughout the internals. Is this normal for a new engine?
The engine currently has 1 hour on it of which 45 minutes were under 1/2 load.
I intend to run the engine at 1/2 load for another 5 hours or so with very little time unloaded.
Typically how long before this dries up?
I don't want to fill the new muffler with oily crap.

veggie

[mobile_bob]

make sure you aren't over oiling the valve spring cups in the head either, too much will get sucked down
and partially burned, making more slobbering mess

and i am with Jens, get the load up to at least 3/4, which for a 6/1 ought to be about 2300 watts or better,
and it wouldn't hurt to switch in and out the remaining 700watts or so while you are running, get the water hot
and keep the fire burning.

there is a lot of iron in that baby, and half load really doesn't make much heat, that doesn't get sucked away into all
that cold cast iron.

when you think about it, it is amazing the listeroid is as efficient as it is, turning slow, making little heat, and haveing so much mass
to suck it away from the cylinder.

bob g

[Ronmar]

Yep, load it up and make it work.  45 minutes of half load didn't even get all the metal warm.  A thermostat that lets the coolant temp approach 200F before it leaves the head helps.  Depending on the volume of the cooling system, it probably didn't even get up to a steady state tomperature in 45 minutes.  Get it warmed up then put it up to 3/4+ load and run it for several hours at full op temp.  

Also, don't overfill it with oil.  Too much splashed around inside the case will cause some to force past the rings and slobber out the exhaust.

[veggie]

Thanks gentlemen,..... 3/4 load it will be !

veggie

[Ronmar]

In answer to your original question, how long does the slobber last, mine never really did slobber.  But it also only ran breifly without load a few times while I was getting it's mount and cooling system sorted out.  It had a 195F thermostat in it from the first, and once warm, went right to 2KW+ of electrical load in the form of baseboard heaters.

[oliver90owner]

I agree with Ronmar.  He says 3/4+ and I would second that.  Particularly the plus after the initial warm-up.

The only issue I might have is that if it is a faithful 6/1 copy you cannot possibly overfill with oil as the splash is determined by the upper tray.  Overfilling would simply result in a leak onto the floor.

They had all this sorted 80, or more, years ago.

Regards, RAB

[Ronmar]

You are right, they did work this oil level thing out decades ago.  But you can overfill a 6/1, at least I can overfill my 6/1.  The upper tray or sump is supposed to drain over the front lip into the lower sump.  this lip sets the upper tray oil level at the correct level and any excess, such as that provided by the oil pump is supposed to drain away to the lower sump.  If you fill the lower sump above this lip, you can raise the level in the upper sump so you get more dipper engagement and more splash inside the case.  I recall Magic Jack mentioning something IRT this.  He said when he overfilled his, it quickly consumed/slobbered/burnt the excess oil away untill it was back down where it should be... 

[oliver90owner]

Yes Ronmar, but the filler hole is below the upper tray level - well it was when the engineers designed it all those years ago!

Regards, RAB

[Ronmar]

RAB
  You are absolutely correct in regards to an actual lister or a faithfull copy.  Most "roids" don't have that filler plate down on the housing extension, at least those I have seen.  They just cast it over solid, so you can fill the case up to the breather port if you wished:) 

[mike90045]

I'm in the process of commissioning my new Metro, and the engine sump does not match any of the layouts in the booklet. It has a dipstick, and oil to bottom of dipstick, misses the dipper. Presently, I have the dipper half submerged.

Would that be too deep, just right, or not enough?

[veggie]

I'm in the process of commissioning my new Metro, and the engine sump does not match any of the layouts in the booklet. It has a dipstick, and oil to bottom of dipstick, misses the dipper. Presently, I have the dipper half submerged.

Would that be too deep, just right, or not enough?

Hard to tell. My 6/1 has a dipstick extending into the upper tray. Useless really.
The upper shelf level can't be raised because any oil added beyond a certain point will spill over into the lower sump.
In your case, I would think the critical measurement is where the oil dipper is submerged in order to create proper splash.
Perhaps pull off the side cover, fill until you see the dipper is 1/4 inch submerged, and make a note of that point on your dipstick.

veggie

[Geno]

Some engines don't have a lower sump. With those you have to check the oil level more often. I have the lower sump. My dipper is about 5/8" in the oil. Once running, especially when cold, there's a lot of oil being slung around in there and sticking to things before it settles back to the sump. I also fill the lower sump until it drains into the upper and stop when it hits 5/8" on the dipper. If my pump stops for any reason I'll still have oil to keep things lubed.

Thanks, Geno

[BruceM]

My 2002 vintage Metro 6/1 has no lower sump at all.  The single sump has a sloped bottom with the dipper moving withing a fraction of an inch of the bottom of the sump.  No gunk settling going on here!  About 7/8 of a gallon fills the sump with an inch of depth on the dipper.

This and the reduction of head bolts are both Rajkot "value engineering" that suck.  They should have just made a faithful copy of Lister's design.

[veggie]

Hi Geno,

Actually, I think that if your oil pump were to stop working, your upper tray would be drained within 1 minute because the dip tube would splash the remaining oil into the lower sump with no new oil to replace it from the pump.
After that, you start to hear funny screeching noises and notice smoke coming out of your crankcase breather.
Then the dreaded knock, knock, knock of a burned out bottom end bearing.

veggie

[Geno]

You misread my post. Both sumps are at the same level which is 5/8" up the dipper and slightly above the "valley" where the upper sump meets the lower.

Thanks, Geno