Working on a 1989 Ford F-150, 300 six, five speed. Wow! bad gas.

[Henry W]

Thanks! I did not think of such grease. Need to pick some up.

[playdiesel]

I was led on to another thing that works very well on 12V connections like that ground strap, copper never sieze. I have been using it now for close to 10 years on battery terminals, grounds etc, ended all issues on my stuff

[Henry W]

I think we need to start a new section for posting tips. Important stuff like this gets lost too easily.

Henry

[Henry W]

The truck will be receiving a major tuneup this morning. Will checking for codes 1st before I start.

I think the coolant temperature sensor is bad. When cold the engine runs rough. Once warmed up it runs much better. Went to Napa and purchased good quality plug wires, cap rotor, temperature sending unit, temp sensor, pvc valve, OEM plugs. Air filter and PCs filter. I was surprised everything was in stock.

[Henry W]

The truck still runs rough and hesitates when accelerating. It's better but some part still needs replacement. Tomorrow I will be looking for an Innova 3145 Ford OBD1 code reader for 1981-1995 ford vehicles.
https://www.innova.com/product/detail/3145/Digital-Ford-Code-Reader-1981-1995
Hope to locate the problem soon.

Henry

[mike90045]

Often auto parts stores have a reader you can borrow in the parking lot, to see what parts you need to buy from them !!

[Henry W]

None of the auto parts stores have an OBD1 reader. I guess no one wants old trucks

But everything is fine. The truck runs great.
I'll post mor tomorrow on what I went threw. Thanks for the support everyone.

Henry

[mike90045]

https://www.amazon.com/slp/obd1-scanner/5bkvna52tdhk6yj

I don't know if it will allow a Fault Erase

[LowGear]

A cliffhanger.  I love it.

How did Fabulous Ford make it through the annal Autoparts maze and return to the old glory that we all remember from our days gone by.  My Beauford (beautiful ford) ran the gamut of craigslist parts wanted and even tried to throw a prospective buyer out by popping the door open in the middle of a test drive.  What a truck!  The last time I saw her she was toeing a piece of crap boat through downtown Kona with all the pride any Ferrari has ever given in a poor little rich boys contest.  What a gal!

So stay tuned to this channel at this same time to find out how FF overcame the last challenge of this seasons programs. 

[Henry W]

https://www.amazon.com/slp/obd1-scanner/5bkvna52tdhk6yj

I don't know if it will allow a Fault Erase

I don't know, but it beats pinning and counting number of flashes. A good thing the code faults can be stared in memory.

[Henry W]

It's been quite a project. Just got the bed back on this morning. Took about 20 minutes.

Took it out for a test ride and I think it has one bad injector. This means the top part of the intake manifold needs to be removed.

Here is the list of everything replaced:

19 gallon rear fuel tank
Complete fuel pump assembly
Tank vent valve
Fuel reservoir
Fuel filter
Tank fill neck
O2 sensor
Throttle position sensor
EGR position solenoid
Temperature sensor
Temperature sending unit
Distributor cap
Rotor
Plug wires
Spark plugs
Thermostat
PVC filter
Air filter
Oil filter
10-30 oil
Coolant
Battery
Negative & Positive cables

I read that a bad carbon canister could cause issues. It looks like a mouse chewed the top vent off.

I tested the throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, EGR position solenoid, temperature sensor and temperature sending unit. I was surprised that they were all bad. But they are original parts.

So I still have stuff to do.

I'll be taking a break from doing more. It's been too hot and I cooked myself this afternoon.

Henry

[sailawayrb]

Yeah, take your time and pace yourself. Sounds like you are well on your way to goal post.  Probably should change differential and tranny fluids too.  And have fun!

[Henry W]

Rear axle and transmission gear oil is next. It's getting there. I believe the truck needs to be driven at least fifty miles for the ECU to recalibrate.

Henry W

[Henry W]

Working on this truck I learned much. The ECM is crude and OBD1 codes that come up could represent more than one part to diagnose to see which one could be bad. Today's OBD2 systems On most vehicles are more precise in carrying out diagnostics.

The truck still has some issues. Stalls when first started, rough idle and surging at times, at times it seems like cylinder miss firing. Hesitation when driving and check engine light comes on at times.

I started thinking that it could be a vacuum leak. Started checking lines and diaphragms. What I found is there are switching vacuum valves called TAD, TAB and EVR solenoids. These solenoids operate the air pump and EGR valve at certain loads and temperatures.  The TAD solenoid is not allowing a vacuum to build. With this leak all three solenoids are not able to function properly. With this truck the proper operation of the EGR is essential to help cool Combustion temperatures which reduces detonation. The air pump helps injecting air in the catalytic converter to aid in a better burn which carbon is reduced to help prevent plugged Cats.

One test I did was plug the vacuum line that operates the three solenoids. In turn most of the drivability issues disappeared. But codes were were being generated. I will start with replacing the TAD solenoid. Another thing I noticed is the EGR is sticking some at certain times so it will be replaced.

Henry W

[Henry W]

https://www.amazon.com/slp/obd1-scanner/5bkvna52tdhk6yj

I don't know if it will allow a Fault Erase

It's been some day, I finally got the Innova 3145 OBD1 code reader for Ford vehicle's and it is worth the price.

The code reader does do fault erase! That was the first thing I did because there were so many fault codes stored before I replaced the parts mentioned in the previous post. This code reader makes diagnostics easy. It will run the engine at different speeds and and let you check the timing at certain RPM's while your using the timing light. It tests Cylinder Balance by dropping out one injector at a time. It tests the distributor Ignition Module, Knock Sensor, EGR Valve operation and more....

Well, here are the fault codes that were found:

Fault 33 / test condition, running / EGR valve fault / not opening
EGR  diaphragm leaks. Needs to be replaced.

I started to take the EGR valve off, and even after soaking the bolts in PB Blaster one broke in the manifold   .  So, I had to take off the upper part of the intake manifold. I have the bolt soaking overnight in PB Blaster so we'll see. I'm open for suggestions .

While I have the upper half off I think I'll replace all the injector's and install a new pressure regulator.



Fault 15 / test condition, continuous memory / Power Interruption to computer memory or EEC (PCM) Keep Alice Memory (KAM) test failed.

Keep Alive Memory, Failed, Most likely cause is when the battery was disconnected. Will check again when everything is finished. If it still comes up I'll do a test. check for B+ at ECU pins 1 and 40 or 60, if thats OK there's a ECU problem and than the ECU might have to be replaced.



Code 11 / test condition, Key On, Engine Off / System OK.
With the Key On Engine Off the system passed.


That's all for now,

Henry W