Stub shaft for Yanmar with non-SAE flywheel

[Henry W]

So if this information is useful to anyone, the engine I'm using is a Thermo King TK270M which is based off of the Yanmar 2TNV70 platform.  These are used in APUs on big trucks and can be got for pretty cheap used.  It seems that the John Deere part # AM875090 flywheel bolts up to either of these engines (the JD tractor this came off of had a 3TNA72 engine), and the stub shaft, JD part # M87178 _should_ be the perfect fit for this flywheel, will verify the fit and dimensions when it shows up.

Good news some of my eBay parts came in today and the flywheel will 99.9% be a perfect fit, will take it to work with me tomorrow where I have the engine and make sure.  But measured everything up for bolting the flywheel to the crank and it seems they are identical.  Ring gears have the same tooth count and I could even move the ring gear from my other flywheel to this new one if need be, but both are in good shape although the new one has slightly more wear.  New flywheel is thinner but that should make no difference for my application.

With the rotational mass of the ST-10, the thinner flywheel will be fine. Looking forward seeing more.

Henry

[dieselfuelonly]

So if this information is useful to anyone, the engine I'm using is a Thermo King TK270M which is based off of the Yanmar 2TNV70 platform.  These are used in APUs on big trucks and can be got for pretty cheap used.  It seems that the John Deere part # AM875090 flywheel bolts up to either of these engines (the JD tractor this came off of had a 3TNA72 engine), and the stub shaft, JD part # M87178 _should_ be the perfect fit for this flywheel, will verify the fit and dimensions when it shows up.

Good news some of my eBay parts came in today and the flywheel will 99.9% be a perfect fit, will take it to work with me tomorrow where I have the engine and make sure.  But measured everything up for bolting the flywheel to the crank and it seems they are identical.  Ring gears have the same tooth count and I could even move the ring gear from my other flywheel to this new one if need be, but both are in good shape although the new one has slightly more wear.  New flywheel is thinner but that should make no difference for my application.

With the rotational mass of the ST-10, the thinner flywheel will be fine. Looking forward seeing more.

Henry

The other stub shaft came in today and it bolts up perfectly to the flywheel and all seems good there.  Got a lovejoy coupling on the way and took the doghouse off the ST head today and will hopefully find some time to work on everything more this weekend.  Soon I will need to start mocking up a frame.  I think I will create a new thread in the ST generator section that follows the rest of my build.

[Henry W]

I think I will create a new thread in the ST generator section that follows the rest of my build.

Sounds good, when the project is up an running, and if you would like, we can move the topic to Members Projects This way the topic won't get lost from the many topics posted after yours. It will be much easier to find.

Henry

[playdiesel]

looking forward to the build. I have a spare ST15 new in box amd access to reefer engines

[dieselfuelonly]

So what's everyones opinion on 12v power for my setup?  The TriPac unit has either a 65 or 120 amp alternator (I'm guessing mine is probably just the 65 amp) alternator, however I can no longer drive it off of the flywheel pulley as I've replaced that with the stub shaft.

So my options are:

1.  Add a pulley to the larger 1-7/16" area of the stub shaft and drive an alternator
2.  Find or make a bracket and new (probably smaller) alternator and drive it off the water pump/crank v-belt like the engine would have traditionally have had
3.  Use a 120v -> 12v trickle charger to keep the starting battery charged and, that brings to another decision I need to make:

Should I use the 12v electric radiator fan that the TriPac unit came with, or find a replacement plastic fan that mounts on the water pump pulley.  If I use the electric fan I will probably also need some kind of a 120v to 12v power supply as I doubt a trickle charger would keep up with it.  

Also I'll need to pick up some square/rectangle steel soon for building the frame.  I'd estimate the total weight of the unit to be in the 600-700lbs weight.  Any recommendations on size?

[playdiesel]

I have a Changfa 1115/ 15KW set up for stand by. There are MUCH smarter electrical people here than I but what I did was keep all my accessory needs 12 V. Since the flywheel alternator on the 1115 has very minimal 12V abilities I wired in an ordinary 15 amp charger into the 110V circuit.  It readily keeps up with the cooling fan while topping off the battery. Has worked well for 10? guessing years since I built it.

[glort]

Given the intended Purpose you are building the setup for, I'd definitely put an alternator of some power on the thing.
If nothing else it would give you the ability to charge flat batteries quickly at least enough to start a Vehicle  where it could be fully charged from there. Using any sort of AC charger is going to take a much longer time and as this will be a mains power generator anyway, you always have that option.

I am also a Big fan of electric cooling. I know a lot of people want belt driven with the excuse of " Bulletproof" But that's really Bullshit.
I have a couple of electric Radiator fans in my Shed window running off a solar panel. They were 15 yo when I got them off a wrecked Subaru Liberty and they have been in my shed window at least 6 years.  I did turn them off for a couple of months a few times during winter but I haven't this year.  I also have a couple on my solar inverters that also run off a panel to keep the inverters much cooler.  These things are literally racking up a MINIMUM of 8 hours a day, sometimes thanks to the higher voltage of the panels, howling their heads off, and they just keep going.  They would easily rack up more hours in a month than most engines will see in at least a couple of years and probably 10 years if they are only for outages.

They are one of if not the most reliable thing I have come across.

It's cheap and easy to buy little electronic thermostat boards these days one can set for precise heat control  from fleabay and alli etc and set them up with the fan so it only kicks in when needed rather than run all the time like a belt fan wasting power, possibly Over cooling ( I have had a Load more trouble with thermostats than I have ever had with fans!) and having a lot more chance of failure when a  belt breaks.

They only run about 8-12A depending on which fan you get as there are plenty out there and one off a Motorbike would probably be plenty for what you need anyway.  Any alternator will keep up  and again you'll have the 12 V Power which you could also use to charge a Battery bank Like a couple removed from Vehicles and put on an inverter to run intermittent loads like a fridge or an LED Light or whatever.  Could be worth it just to run LED lights as they use nothing and you could run a few all night off a car battery for security or whatever and not have to worry about over discharging the battery.  Fire the genny in the morning and you'll soon have the battery back  to 80% at least.  Hook it to a decent solar panel and a little controller to top the thing off and have it at full charge after that.

[dieselfuelonly]

Given the intended Purpose you are building the setup for, I'd definitely put an alternator of some power on the thing.
If nothing else it would give you the ability to charge flat batteries quickly at least enough to start a Vehicle  where it could be fully charged from there. Using any sort of AC charger is going to take a much longer time and as this will be a mains power generator anyway, you always have that option.

I am also a Big fan of electric cooling. I know a lot of people want belt driven with the excuse of " Bulletproof" But that's really Bullshit.
I have a couple of electric Radiator fans in my Shed window running off a solar panel. They were 15 yo when I got them off a wrecked Subaru Liberty and they have been in my shed window at least 6 years.  I did turn them off for a couple of months a few times during winter but I haven't this year.  I also have a couple on my solar inverters that also run off a panel to keep the inverters much cooler.  These things are literally racking up a MINIMUM of 8 hours a day, sometimes thanks to the higher voltage of the panels, howling their heads off, and they just keep going.  They would easily rack up more hours in a month than most engines will see in at least a couple of years and probably 10 years if they are only for outages.

They are one of if not the most reliable thing I have come across.

It's cheap and easy to buy little electronic thermostat boards these days one can set for precise heat control  from fleabay and alli etc and set them up with the fan so it only kicks in when needed rather than run all the time like a belt fan wasting power, possibly Over cooling ( I have had a Load more trouble with thermostats than I have ever had with fans!) and having a lot more chance of failure when a  belt breaks.

They only run about 8-12A depending on which fan you get as there are plenty out there and one off a Motorbike would probably be plenty for what you need anyway.  Any alternator will keep up  and again you'll have the 12 V Power which you could also use to charge a Battery bank Like a couple removed from Vehicles and put on an inverter to run intermittent loads like a fridge or an LED Light or whatever.  Could be worth it just to run LED lights as they use nothing and you could run a few all night off a car battery for security or whatever and not have to worry about over discharging the battery.  Fire the genny in the morning and you'll soon have the battery back  to 80% at least.  Hook it to a decent solar panel and a little controller to top the thing off and have it at full charge after that.

Thanks for your input, if I do go the electric route it will make things easier as I already have a radiator and electric fan that was mounted on the side of the TriPac box that the engine was housed in.  I've even got the temperature sensors too, although I will probably need to come up with some kind of control system for them as I believe they were controlled by the TriPac's computer.  I actually have 2 electric fans because the condenser had one too.  I guess I need to check their draw and size up an appropriate alternator, as long as it will keep the battery charged and run the cooling fan(s) that's all I'll really need.  I want as little of a load as possible coming from the alternator side of things as I'm not working with a bunch of HP to begin with.  And I agree with the reliability of the electric cooling fans.  Thousands and thousands of hours without issue on every one I've ever had whether it was a vehicle or piece of machinery.