1115 thermal cyphon cooling question

[dmarkh]

OK. Got it, but I would try some sort of workaround to get my sensor on the rad tank cool side, but that is just me. It would mitigate some of the temp swing.
Ron.

Ya, I bet that just might prevent that extra 4-5 degree drop after the fans stop. And actually that extra drop is what shuts off the TS. No way to move that sensor there though. It's a surface mount sensor that I had to block tap the plate for. I think I'm gonna just spend the $50 on that Derale 16749 Adjustable Fan Controller kit and install its 3/8" NPT switch inline the hose from the plate to the top of the rad. I found a $6.00 hose adapter for it that I'll have to re-tap from 1/8" to 3/8" but I think I would rather do that than tap a 3/8" in the block off plate. I'm hoping their 10 degree swing is as advertised. Or at worst 15 degrees.

Or like you say maybe even put the sensor inline the hose on the cool side of the rad. Since it is "adjustable" I guess it would work either place. I've been reading some on that subject. The opinions are 50/50. I'll have to think about that one and maybe read some more. I think if the 10 degree swing is as advertised, I'll be OK either way. I'll just need to adjust it so that it comes on when the temp at the block off plate is 215. That's where my temp gauge sending unit is.

Thanks
mark

[dmarkh]

Sorry it took so long to report back on my status. I've plumbed in the Bosch water pump and the rad return into the drain petcock. I installed a new drain petcock down low near the pump. And I installed that Derale 16749 Adjustable Fan Controller with the sensor installed inline the hose from the plate to the hot side of the rad. I used one of those $6.00 inline adapters from epay made just for this. I only had to retap the 1/4 NPT to 3/8 NPT for the sensor. I blocked off the old rad return side at the plate so that I could easily go back and forth between the Bosch water pump and thermal siphon by installing another valve if I wanted to. We'll see. So far so good though. My rad fans come on at 214, run for about 60 seconds, then off at 204 and stay off for 3-4 minutes, and the temp never drops below 200 so the TS stays open now. Perfect. That Bosch pump motor gets pretty hot though. I suppose that's normal but I put a little fan on it anyway. 

I've only run the house for about 8hrs straight and that was through my old 30 amp hookup. That was running just the essentials including some lights, the TV of coarse, and the AC. Drawing max of around 32 amps. (ya I know that is just a little high for a 30 amp hookup). I don't yet have the 50amp hookup in place yet. The gen did great except the wifey complained about the flicker in the lights. Didn't bother me. I may have to do something about that but we'll see. It was obvious when the AC would kick on. I get about 2-3 seconds of smoke and a short growl when it does. Maybe that 50 amp hookup will help there??? I got me one of these brand new Reliance Nema 14-50FP receptacles to install into a normal RV outlet box:

http://www.steadypower.com/products.php?product=Reliance-1450FP-Flanged-Inlet-%2850A%2C-14%252d50%29

It doesn't fit because the wires come into the back of the plug instead of the side and the box isn't deep enough. So I'm just gonna make the box 2" deeper and it should be fine. It's the same box I put on the gen with a 14-50 plug. It's a "Connecticut Electric CESMPS54HR 50-Amps/120240-Volt RV Power Outlet" box. I bought 2 of these. One for the gen and one for the house hookup.

My new 8x10 Carolina carport is installed close to the house near where the service meter panel is and the trailer/gen will live under it from now on. The wifey is very happy to have it out of the garage for some reason. I actually miss it. All I have left to do is that 50 amp inlet box and I should be set for a while short of having to deal with the light flicker.

Anyway shortly, I'll post some pictures of it all. Thanks to everyone who helped me out here so far.

Regards
Mark