Brake Rotor type for Direct Drive coupling

[OneBarfly]

Hi Group,

After two years of procrastinatiing and generally mucking about, I finally have gotten to the point of actually assembling my Laidong 1115 to my ST10.

So, I decided to go with direct drive coupling and have a 42mm 225 Lovjoy-type coupling on order with Central Georgia Generator.

The frame is welded up, the generator is bolted onto a moving plate and the engine is on. I still will need to shim and align, but here's the big question: What type of rotor is being used to machine the coupling plate? I've previously asked the person who has made these in the past, but there was no clear answer. Any help would be appreciated. Also, what about the radiator? Is there an inexpensive after-market rad with overflow that people are using, or is this a one-off thing? What about an ATV rad: too small for the job?

Cheers,

Rich

[playdiesel]

Cant help you with the coupling but I am cooling a 1115 15KW set with a 90 Honda civic radiator. and it has plenty of capacity. Brand new one is only around $60 at Rockauto, just bought one for a 6/1 project.  The necks are both for 1" diameter hose and if your going to keep your circulating pump all you need to do is adapt up from 3/4 ( I think?) on the Laidong. You might want to weaken the pressure spring in the cap a bit.

[mobile_bob]

my radiator for the 195 came out of an 86 nissan sentra, i took it complete with the electric fan and fan control switch.

it has ample capacity for anything upwards of probably 50hp and with the electric fan controlled by the thermoswitch in the bottom of the radiator the temperature across the system is very well controlled.

i use a 195f t/stat and the system will heat up to 215 degree's where the fan will cycle and maintain a temperature between 205 and 214,  yes i have a closed system, 50/50 antifreeze and a 7lb cap... i also use an overflow bottle and everything works perfectly.

the engine runs a bit more efficiently at the higher temperatures, burns cleaner at higher output and makes for better heat recovery from both the coolant and exhaust exchangers.

i use a bosch auxiliary heater pump from a VW or any other german car to circulate the coolant, and push the cooled coolant into the engine at the drain cock port under the cylinder jacket, and take the hot water via t/stat housing out the top block off plate.

i would highly recommend such a setup, the blockoff plate is large enough to include a port for a temp gauge probe or sensor as well as an overheat idiot light sensor which can control a relay to trip out the fuel solenoid should something spring a leak and overheat.

a bit more complex than a thermosyphon system, however all the parts from pump to radiator, fan to overflow tank are all well proven to operate for many thousands of trouble free hours, and i have no reason to believe their is any risk of engine failure due to a part failing and a severe overheat taking place.

as for cost, i got lucky when i bought a wrecked nissan at  a tow auction, for 15 bucks,,, it had a new radiator and the care looked to have been well taken care of.

bob g

[playdiesel]

Good point about that heat Bob, I forgot about that and my 1115 loves to be hot also. My system is thermosyphon and I dropped the rearmost pipe down into the water jacket about 2".   I haven't found it necessary to add a 'stat to mine as under any load it will warm up quickly to the point of the fan switch cycling. Mine switch is also 90 Honda item as is the fan and cycles about 195-205.  I have a Laidong 1115 like his with a pump but it is just occupying space in the garage at this juncture.

[JPinnell]

What's your plan for mating the Lovejoy Coupler to the brake rotor?  I'm in the same boat looking to make a direct drive. 

I sourced a cheapo from eBay when these things were more popular, but I don't trust it.  I have a rear rotor from a '96 VW Passat that looks to just be usable with some machining.  There's a snout on the face of the rotor that needs to be removed in order to yield a flat surface to then center and weld on the coupler.  The inside of the hat would need to be machined flat if you were planning to bolt on the coupler.  I also have a rotor from a '02 VW Jetta/Bora/Golf that looks like it could be made to work.  The hat isn't as deep so I'm not sure it will clear the flywheel nut?

I plan to direct drive the gen head and then run the back side of a serpentine belt off the rotor hat to power an automotive DC Alternator and York AC Compressor.

[OneBarfly]

Well, I received an all aluminum rad from ebay.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/92-95-96-98-99-00-HONDA-CIVIC-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-FAN-/360693357422?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53faffdb6e#ht_4484wt_1006

Also ordered some 90 C snap switches from China. Hopefully a couple of these will turn on the fan when needed.

Still need to source a 7lb rad cap and an expansion bottle.

I don't have a clue about what brake rotor to use, so thanks for your suggestion. I seem to recall JohnF as saying that you could use one out of a Ford pickup. I wish I could remember the details as to which one.

Another person thought about sizing and "sweating" the coupler into the existing three-groove pulley. Not too sure how the cast iron would react to that idea or if it would fit at all.

[JPinnell]

Does anyone have some real dimensions for the Changfa flywheel.  The PDF I have shows a diagram but it appears to be a scan of a scan of a scan of a bad 1970s era fax.  I've found someone to machine a drive adapter for me, just need some real specs.

[vdubnut62]

It depends on which Changfa (or Changfoid in my case)    the only thing I have is for S1100.  MobilBob probably has specs for S195.    Flywheel prob has 1115 specs.
Sorry if I ratted you guys out

I really don't think the manufacturer has much to do with the design- correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Chinese engines are like listeroids, assembled from parts from various suppliers  and a maker's name stuck on 'em.
Ron.

[JPinnell]

Well I have an "official" Changfa branded ZS1115GM.  So if anyone has some decent specs for mating something to the flywheel hub that would be great.  I have a couple of brake rotors that look like they should be usable.  My plan is to true up a couple of LoveJoy couplers.  Then machine a seat into the hub face of the brake rotor.  Preheat things and then weld the coupler on.  I'll document the process and post up pics here when completed for future use. - JP

[vdubnut62]

The part of the rotor you will be welding on is steel, no preheat needed. A stub shaft is usually welded on, the rotor set up in a lathe, indicated in, and then machined to match the rest of the rotor and mount the coupler half.  But I can't see why your way won't work just as well. Only thing, if it breaks, you have to face it off and weld another coupling on.
I used the belt pully and machined a BIG washer to fit the inside, then stuffed half a Mercedes driveshaft and rubber coupler through it. I welded it all together, made an aluminum
piece to fit a taperlock bushing for the genny end and  the Mercedes rubber coupler, then bolted it all together.
Yep, clear as mud.

Ron.

Pic here http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=645.0
And if anyone is going to bitch, don't look. I'm not gonna put up with it.           

[mobile_bob]

fwiw

back when i set out to have a steel ring machined to mount to the 195 i was working on
the spec's in the manual ended up making for a 60 thou loose fit in the register of the flywheel.

yes i was pissed as it cost me 125 bucks to have the damn thing machined at the time.

so i had to use a piece of 030" mig wire to make a spacer ring so that the steel spacer ring would register and run true.

it worked out fine, but the point is this... i have no idea if the spec was wrong or if the flywheel register was machined a bit wide?  who know's it isn't like it is easy thing to measure given the 3 point mounting pattern.

if it were me, i  would make a ring out of something cheap and easy to work with, turn it down a bit and try it, turn and try,  and sneak up on the diameter needed... then measure and cut the disk rotor to that diameter.

that is if you have a lathe and run it yourself, otherwise it might be best to remove the flywheel and take it in so that machinist can sort it out.

i have seen some of the pulleys that come with the engine fit snug, some loose... so maybe you can just take the oem pulley if it fits properly and have it measured?  that is if you have one?

iirc the 195 and the 1100 share the same pattern and dimensions, give or take a hand full of thousands.

with the drive system i came up with (direct) i can be out of line by quite a bit and not have any issues at all.

the lovejoy coupler idea also allows for significant misalignment and runout too.

of course the closer you get it the better.

i will look around over the next few days and see if i can put my hands on one of the oem pulleys and measure the register locator step diameter, and post it back here so maybe you can determine if it is what you need.

bob g

[Horsepoor]

For the coolant overflow tank, I use these on both my listeroids.

http://www.carid.com/dorman-engine-cooling-parts/dorman-engine-coolant-tank-33292397.html?gclid=CLXU3urQ7MECFVNk7AodxlAAwA

Unfortunately, no longer in stock at Surplus Center but can be purchased elsewhere on ebay for $10.