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surplus isuzu 2.2DI Thermoking engines

Started by ihavelotsoftoys, February 04, 2013, 07:14:59 PM

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ihavelotsoftoys

Has anyone figured out how to hook up to these engines?  There are many on ebay from a little over $1000 and as low as $600.  All of them have the pins sticking out of the flywheel for mounting the ac compressor.  They have an SAE housing but how to use the flywheel.  It there anyone who has worked on these and know how to hook up a single bearing alternator to them? I am considering picking up one even though it is much larger than I need because the price is good.  They have very large sumps (15L) and can go 3K hours on service intervals.  That's over a years worth of 8 hour days.  Rebuild parts are really cheap also. 
Anyone out there have experience with these beasts.  I think they are also know as D201 engines. 
Can one just buy a SAE flywheel for these motors?  Anybody have information? 
Several members have started projects with these engines but I don't see any complete. 

deeiche

I bought a hammermill last year for $500, belt driven by a TK C201.

ihavelotsoftoys

are you making wood pellets?  That engine will run a very large hammermill. 

TimSR2

My buddy just bought a nice one from  reefer shop for $ 250 .

I'd go with 1 to 1 v belt drive on a 2 bearing head. 12 inch pulleys.  Cheap, easily serviced, efficient, and takes a lot of abuse. The bell housing hookup for a 1 bearing head will NOT be cheap, or easy to source.     

cohippy

i could show you with a simple pic but dont know how to post pics

cohippy

#5
I had a custom flanged keyd shaft made 1/2" thick flange that bolts directly to the flywheel. dont try to take the fly wheel off it is a PITA to remove. the coupler hub is a quadraflex i spent a total of about $300 just to couple the engine to the gen head.without any mods to the ip ive been able to pull about 13.5Kw it did spin down to about 45Hz but i have not reset the ip for this speed. if you get this beauty of an engine the C201 NOT the D201 get the service manual i was luck and picked one up for a buck on fleabay

My understanding is that with some adjustment to the ip you can push about 60Hp from a C201










ihavelotsoftoys

#6
There are also Yanmar 4TNE-86 engines. They are also known as TK-486 engines. They look very similar to the Isuzu but have an inline injection pump. 
Would that be easier to get a proper SAE flywheel? 
For now I would really like to use a single bearing alternator with direct couple, but  if no affordable options exist I'll opt for a coupler of sorts. 

deeiche

Quote from: ihavelotsoftoys on February 04, 2013, 07:40:20 PM
are you making wood pellets?  That engine will run a very large hammermill.  
My intent is to make briquette's from Miscanthus.   My test plantings of Miscanthus have done great, I just need to come up with the funds to plant 2-3 acres in it.

I'm pretty sure the engine is overkill for the hammermill, but they would only sell it as a unit.  It looks like this unit, but it was modified to take multiple v-bets instead of a flat belt.

ihavelotsoftoys

I finally have some pictures of the business end of the Isuzu refer engine.  Even though these engines are D201, or 2.2L DI engines I really think they are the 'SE' engine.  I bought an old book (1985) on ebay and the details (fuel pump and flywheel) really match the 'SE' specs. 
Now for some pictures.  Any ideas on adapting a single bearing alternator.  The housing is SAE6.  I am thinking an adaptor can be fabricated to go into the pocket of the flywheel (after pushing out the pins and threading the holes) to adapt to an sae 6-1/2 flange.  The adaptor needs to take up over an inch of space because the flange to housing spec is 1.19 inch (30mm).  Am I on track here or forgetting some detail? 

ihavelotsoftoys


ihavelotsoftoys

Update:
I got a quote from a coupling manufacturer.
He can make an adaptor for the flywheel to make it an SAE7-1/2 flange and then adapt the SAE 6 housing up to SAE5.  This puts the pair into a common single bearing alternator from many vendors.  The SAE6 housing isn't very common from what I have found on line.
Does around $440 for the pair of part sound reasonable?  It makes the coupling to the anternator very simple.  I see  one other method in the post for around $300. It isn't a bad route but more parts involved. 

TimSR2

That seems  to be a reasonable price for a custom adaptor.  But a lot can go wrong!  I'd lean toward a simple 1 1/2 inch stub shaft conversion to a 2 bearing head (not as compact, but easier and simpler) , or a belt drive system, using the same stub shaft. (Very compact, and easy to service.)

Paying more for the adaptor than I did for the engine just rubs me the wrong way. I'd rather have a good 'stand alone' 2 bearing generator that I can use in any application in the future, in case the experimental build doesn't work out. 2 bearing heads have resale value.  1 bearing heads have no resale value.   

cohippy

Quote from: TimSR2 on February 12, 2013, 08:02:18 PM
I'd lean toward a simple 1 1/2 inch stub shaft conversion to a 2 bearing head (not as compact, but easier and simpler) , or a belt drive system, using the same stub shaft. (Very compact, and easy to service.)

agreed!

ihavelotsoftoys

Progress update:
I found a shop to punch out a 'special' coupling disk.  It's like the standard SAE coupling disk except it will have clearance holes for the 8 dowel pins that used to drive the TK compressor, use the 6 threaded holes on the outermost surface of the flywheel, use the two key pins on that surface for alignment, and match the alternator shaft.  They will also supply the necessary spacer to meet up with the alternator shaft.  The isuzu engine has a 1.75" back set.  I haven't got a quote yet, but they assured me it's cheaper than machining two spacers, one for the flywheel and one for the housing.  When is all done, it will be like an SAE disk arrangement and should be fairly low cost.   

So onto the fuel system on these engines.  Does anyone know about the EMI300 fuel filter system?  TK says it allows 3000 hour service intervals.  From what I understand the old spin on filter system used a primary and secondary.  The manual makes reference about a bleed orifice that allows clean fuel flow back to the tank but indicates it is after the fuel is filtered, so on the clean side of the filter.  I also notice that the old box filter diagram has several lines going back to the tank, not just from the injection pump. 
Then as I read about the EMI3000 fuel filter, it looks like it is one (no pri and sec) filter that has a special path that allows the dirt and water that accumulates on the dirty side of the filter to be returned back to the tank!  That's pretty clever if it is true.  It's like having the drain port slightly opened and returning back to the tank.  The literature says it eliminates failures while on the road. 
Can anyone confirm this?  Any TK mechanics out there? 

ihavelotsoftoys

Progress update:

I did get a shop to quote me the custom disk and machine a spacer to go on the end of the alternator.  So I will buy a SAE flanged alternator.  I'll throw away the supplied SAE 10 disk and have the supplied spacer machined.  Total cost around $200.  I'll post pictures when the parts show up, they are on order.  2 weeks lead time. 

On the fuel system, I did purchase the EMI3000 fuel filter kit.  It was around $70 bucks.  It is exactly as advertised.  It has a couple of return paths to allow fuel from the dirty side of the filter make it's way back to the tank.  It also will automatically purge air with the same feature.  One requirement is that it MUST be located on the pressure side of the fuel pump.  The kit comes with a bunch of fittings and some plastic tubing to hook it up.  I'll post pics of the critter.  The kit part number is 10-325.  It can be purchased from resellers of TK dealers. 

On the engine controller.  I will probably settle for the Dynagen.  The TG350 series seems to be reasonable.  Just looking for basic control and shutdown features.  Probably going to use it to also run an electric cooling fan. 

Speed control.  I don't know yet.  Anybody have suggestions?
Cooling.  Anybody have leads on good low cost radiators, heat exchangers?  I'll look in those sections of the forum for ideas also.