Neutral and grounding wires

[Henry W]

Well, only Henry can answer that...  But I would suspect by measuring the impedance to see if it complies with code...typically less than 25 ohms.  I rented one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1623-Ground-Tester-Kit/dp/B000VRCSDE/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Fluke+1623-2+GEO+Earth+Ground+Resistance+Meter&qid=1610048883&sr=8-6

Our Ufer ground was about 3 ohms in late Summer with bone dry soil.

Rob your correct, my neighbor who is an electrical contractor helped me with the install. When I installed one grounding rod it did not meet code so I had to drive another one in. I can't remember the distance requirements but my neighbor laid  it out. I know once I bonded them together it passed. He used a Fluke meter also but I can't remember which one. Wow, time is going by fast. It's been that long already.

Randy, To be safe, try to ask electricians in your area and see if they can help you. There is a possibility that codes changed.

What ever you do, if you have a dog, don't tie a conductive leash to the grounding rod, Bob G told me about an incident he seen. The dog was tortured for days. Poor thing.

[Randybee1]

Thanks guys.

[mikenash]

Thanks for your comments on this.
Here in the Bahamas, and our electrical code follows the Canadian code The neutral and ground is supposed to be connected in one and only one place. It is usually at the main disconnet at the meter box. This is also a US code requirement.

Many European codes do not ground the neutral and leave it floating.
Inverters for RV units normally would not have neutral and ground interconneted and have a floating neutral.
Most low cost inverters keep ground and neutral issolated. This one of the reasons that they recommend NOT hooking up to a house panel.
All that being said, I will double check that I made the proper wiring connections when I reconfiured for 120/240 and keep you all posted.

Again thanks for your input.

Regards


An old topic, but I am looking at it this morning on Henry's recommendation - just a comment that here in New Zealand we have a similar system to that mentioned, called "Multiply Earthed Neutral" where the neutral and earth bars are linked at the switchboard so that there is a path to earth for fault current or over-current which includes a fuse or CB to blow.  Cheers

[veggie]

As you may know, Neutral and Ground can only be bonded in one place (Either the house panel or the Gen head).
Usually they are bonded at the main house breaker panel.
If you add a generator to power the house, the generator head should have a "floating neutral".

Many generators have a bonded neutral because in remote applications they are the prime source.
In the case of a house, the breaker panel is normally the prime source.
The house and the generator should not both have neutral connected to ground.

In my case I had to convert my generator head from "ground bonded neutral" to "floating neutral".

good luck
veggie

[playdiesel]

While I am not saying it meets any code I don't know of a single person who fools with the ground bonding on thier portable generator when it is used if different capacities. I think the subject is over talked about,, just the personal opinion of a person who grew up in a house with knob and tube wiring, open knife switch's and two wires, ya I was tickled a few times by power tools, LOL.
In my lifetime we have gone from two wire, to 3 wire, to 4 wire and I am waiting on the 5 and 6 wire to appear