Absorption beverage cooler

[bentcrafter]

Just a related experience if anyone is interested.

Four months ago, I bought a small motel beverage cooler at the local second hand. They had 4 NEW units, but I only bought one to play with because they were Absorption - $60. Bare in mind, these are very small units, typically 15"w x 18"D x 20"H. The heating element is 120Vac. Draws about 1kWh/day @ 80 degrees ambient.

I got it home and promptly plugged it in.  It seemed to cycle just fine (as expected), BUT, it is sensitive to outside temperatures and consistently averaged a 20-25 degree difference between outside and inside temps. As the outside temps rose, so too did the inside temps. No doubt that additional shell insulation could vastly improve its performance. Its recovery time lags too. but again, insulation should improve this.

I went back to the second hand to snag another and someone beat me to them. Had I known, I would've bought at least one more. My plans?...

To pull the element and install it in my 5 cf freezer shell (it has 3" foam walls) and use it as a refer. If memory serves, it needs somewhere between 160-180f at the heating element - thinking I may be able to plumb a small, insulated tube from the exhaust of the genny.  That's next winter's project.

[mobile_bob]

got any picture, model numbers,,, manufacture?

inquiring minds want to know

thanks
bob g

[TimSR2]

I pulled my absorption fridge from my motorhome after multiple expensive  failures,  and replaced it with a second hand 'Norcold' compressor driven unit, which draws 40 watts on 12dc or 120ac  volt, at 10 to 20% duty cycle.  The Norcold will run at 30 degrees off of level indefinitely, while the absorption units need to be always dead level, or suffer a slow silent death.


The Norcold will make about 2 pounds of ice a day, while an  absorption unit struggles to maintain ice in any weather.

IMHO the absorption refrigeration principle is a finicky old dinosaur, that is  to be avoided unless you have lots of excess waste heat available for free.  100 watts of solar panel will easily maintain a large RV fridge, if powered by a compressor system. A compressor driven system will run all week on the power that you use running your absorption unit for  a day.  

[bentcrafter]

got any picture, model numbers,,, manufacture?

inquiring minds want to know

thanks
bob g

No promises, but I'll try to photo the backside tomorrow.

[mike90045]

....
To pull the element and install it in my 5 cf freezer shell (it has 3" foam walls) and use it as a refer. If memory serves, it needs somewhere between 160-180f at the heating element - thinking I may be able to plumb a small, insulated tube from the exhaust of the genny.  That's next winter's project.   

And when the genny runs  - is winter ? Aren't things cold enough then  ?

[quinnf]

I love the concept of no moving parts, etc, but I can't imagine how ammonia would be allowed inside a habitable dwelling on this side of the Bounding Main.  That stuff is nasty deadly.  But there it has UL and CE stickers on it.  But 18 oz. of NH3 is scary stuff should it spring a leak. 

q.

[Ronmar]

18 oz. of NH3 is scary stuff should it spring a leak. 

q.

Well so are a couple of cubic feet of natural gas, and they allow that in a lot of homes:)

[Chris]

I have a Servel Refridgerator with a small freezer. LP gas. It works very well here in the Bahamas. It is just small. I think the whole thing is about 9 cuft. Similar in size to what is used in RV mobile homes.
LP gas useage is not bad. I don't know for sure because I used LP for waterheating and clothes dryer as well as stove. I use about 100lb cylinder every 6 weeks or so.

[BruceM]

My Diamond 15 LP refrigerator/freezer is a gem, totally quiet. It costs almost $1 a day for propane (at $2.50/gal) in the summer months. Acceptable for me, because of the sound, zero EMFs, and no custom development project except for making it sealed combustion.