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How to protect your rockers

Started by cgwymp, February 28, 2012, 08:04:38 PM

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cgwymp

Listeroid 8/1

veggie


I wonder how well the 140 weight oil splashes onto the cylinder walls and piston pin"
That's important !

veggie

vdubnut62

I wouldn't want that gob of crap all over my rockers! How could ya see if something was coming apart or loose or starting to wear for that matter plus a lot of energy wasted dragging all that gear oil around in there.
I do things a little differently.
Ron
When governments fear the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government, there is tyranny -- Thomas Jefferson

"Remember, every time a child is responsibly introduced to the best tools for the protection of freedoms, a liberal weeps for the safety of a criminal." Anonymous

Tom Reed

Hope he doesn't have a bronze idler, many GL-5 oils will corrode bronze and brass. I'd like to see him out there cranking that puppy up on a cold morning. And I just love the do it my way or she's gon'na be junk attitude.
Ashwamegh 6/1 - ST5 @ just over 4000 hrs
ChangChi NM195
Witte BD Generator

Tom

XYZER

His copper supply lines will probably break while he is off doing what he does for 24 hours and he will return to even a bigger mess than all that grease....
Vidhata 6/1, Power Solutions 6/1, Kubota Z482

Ronmar

I saw that also:) Nothin cooler than cracked work-hardened copper...

The "droping point" (temperature at which it passes from a semi-solid to a liquid) of mobile 1 synthetic grease is 288C or 550F...  The only place I have ever recorded a temperature even remotely close to that on or around my cylinder head is the exhaust outlet flange and pipe...  But I have never measured my actual valve stem temp.  Even if the valve stem gets that hot, I am thinking it would act like a burning candle.  The stem, like the flame would melt and consume the grease in contact with the stem.  This would form an insulating void around the stem and guide and the grease stops melting and no more supply to the stem...  Unless you visit the engine regularly and re-pack the grease around the valve stem, I see them running just as dry as without oil applied.

I think lister got it right.  Lube regularly keep the valve cover in place and let the guides be lubed by wicking up the stem and oil mist from oil that collects in the valve spring cups...
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

Henry W

Whoa :o Copper injector lines!!! Gear lube in the crank case and gobs of grease. ::)

The sad thing is people will try what he did.

Henry

Horsepoor

I wonder how the 85W-140 gear oil would work out if poured in and around the valves? The increased viscosity might allow for longer service intervals while still properly lubricating the upper valve train.

mbryner

JKson 6/1, 7.5 kw ST head, propane tank muffler, off-grid, masonry stove, thermal mass H2O storage

"Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temp Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." Ben Franklin, 1775

"The 2nd Amendment is the RESET button of the US Constitution"

Ronmar

I use 80W90 gear oil in my oil can.  That is what I put on the rockers, tappets, linkage pivots, all the external lube points...
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

Horsepoor

Ron,

How do you think the heavier weight of 85w-140 would work out? Funny how this guys wacky videos stimulates discussion but not exactly on his topics.

Bruce

Ronmar

Outside the engine, it works fine on all the low speed, low pressure pivots.  IMO, it's thicker viscosity helps keep it in place longer.  Running it inside a splash lubed engine is just silly IMO.  What happens when you drop a brick(high velocity dipper) into a bucket of water?  Now what happens when you drop it into a bucket of jello?  Havn't tested, and never will as someone a long time back already worked this out for me, but I don't think that thick oil would sling nearly as well as the proper specified oil...  They had thicker oils way back when. I think if there was a benefit, R.A. Lister or any number of producers of splash lubed engines since then would have specified thicker oils...

Those who fail to learn from history are forever doomed to repeat it...
Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"

sailawayrb

I believe the heavy weight oil would "sling" and work quite well, i.e., in terms of better lubrication and less wear.  After all, we successfully use these heavy weight oils in our car transmissions which is a similar application.  However, one would lose some HP because of the increased viscous friction (perhaps insignificant) and one's dipper would experience increased operational loads (perhaps enough to cause failure) for the same reason.

Bob B.

Tom Reed

An automotive, or any gear box is not really splash. The some of the gears are immersed in oil and as they spin oil is carried on the teeth of the gears to the upper gears.

Another issue with the heavy oils is that the film strength breaks down when it's cold in tight tolerance bearings. Places like the big end rod bearing.
Ashwamegh 6/1 - ST5 @ just over 4000 hrs
ChangChi NM195
Witte BD Generator

Tom

cgwymp

My biggest concern re: gear oil in the crankcase is that the gear probably has exactly the wrong additive package for that application. What does it do in the presence of acids & other combustion products?
Listeroid 8/1