Fuel Filter 6/1

[veggie]

After all the commissioning, bolt tightening, lubricating, drilling, mounting .......etc..etc..
I was just about to crank over the new 6/1 and see how she runs.
I put some fuel in the tank, and got ready to purge the fuel line prior to start-up.

THEN....I looked over at the fuel filter and saw a steady stream of fuel leaking from the canister.
Not from a joint, but right through a welded repair at the bottom of the canister.

Anyway, can anyone suggest a replacement filter housing for the 6/1 ?
I would prefer something that requires no (or minimal) modification.
Hopefully something that can use the existing mount holes

Veggie

[mbryner]

Like Jens said.   Most people probably replace the stock fuel system components.   I had a leak at the stopcock just below the fuel tank; could never make it stop dripping.

Just use a large truck/heavy equipment fuel filter.   I use a Wix 2 micron filter.   The housing for it is probably the most expensive.   Just cut the low pressure fuel line right before the banjo bolt at the fuel pump and put a male-male brass adapter to regular fuel hose.   Simplest way for me.

Marcus

[veggie]

Ok, the existing fuel system is coming off.
Thanks for the tips fellas.

Veggie

[veggie]

Just use a large truck/heavy equipment fuel filter.   I use a Wix 2 micron filter.   The housing for it is probably the most expensive.   Just cut the low pressure fuel line right before the banjo bolt at the fuel pump and put a male-male brass adapter to regular fuel hose.   Simplest way for me.

Marcus

The existing steel tubing seems like an odd size. How did you mate the brass fitting to the steel tubing?
Compression fit with a farrel ? or perhaps solder an adapter ?

Veggie

[mbryner]

That low pressure fuel line with steel mesh outer sheath is rubber on the inside.   Just wrap some tape around the line (to prevent fraying of the steel mesh) and cut in the middle of the tape.   Stick a male-male brass fitting in it, 1/4" inch IIRC, and standard 1/4" black rubber fuel hose.  See left side of picture.

[veggie]

I see how you did it. Thanks for posting the picture.
My engine has solid steel lines (not the braided hose that yours came with).
I now understand what needs to be done. Over the next few days I will fab a new system.

Thanks for the help,
Veggie

[mbryner]

Sorry. Now I know why you were referring to steel lines.

[Ronmar]

I also had to replace the valve under the tank due to leakage.  I replaced the filter assembly with one from an auto parts store.  It is about 3 1/2" tall  It has an upper body that has top mounting bolts.  It's lower body is a chromed cup that houses a replaceable filter element.  The original bracket bolted to the side of the cylinder.  I made a new bracket for the new top mount filter that uses the same bolt holes on the side of the cylinder.  This filter can be top bled, but has no drain.  The original hose fittings are not compatible with NPT fittings.  They have the same thread pitch, but are designed to bottom out to seal.  They cannot do this in a regular NPT hole.  Since I had to use hose barbs, I just replaced all the hoses.

If I do this again, I will probably just go with a pair of clear inline filters.  They are just as easy to purge of air plus you can see any air that makes it to the filter and how much material has collected on the filter material.

[Geno]

Marcus
Within the past year or so I learned that those crimped connections on the ends of hoses usually have a barb underneath. You can cut the crimp off and get rid of all that crappy Indian fuel hose. Mine swelled, decomposed, put crap into the fuel and wept. That was with regular diesel going through them.

Thanks, Geno

[WGB]

Here is what I did:
Made a new brass Banjo fitting.
Used a filter I had, standard screw on filter.
Then used DOT 250 degree nylon fuel line with push lock fittings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vbvzzYZfL8

[veggie]

Thanks for all the ideas guys,

Here's how I ended up modifying my system.

1] Found a mini spin-on cartridge filter with 3/8" connections.(no internal spring loaded bypass)
2] Made a bracket to fit the new filter
3] Cut the 1/4" metal fuel line 1" from the fuel pump and slipped a fuel line over it.
4] Added the necessary fittings to incorporate an air bleed (thanks for that idea Jens)
5] Installed a new fuel petcock

While I was at it, I upgraded the air filter.

Here's a few pictures....

Cheers,
Veggie

[bschwartz]

I also had to replace the poor leaky under tank valve.  I cut off the hoses from the existing benjo bolts and put 1/4" fuel line on the remaining barbs.  My stock filter was designed like a sieve.  It has a bolt running up through the middle to allow fuel to drip continuously on everything.  I replaced it with a filter and assembly from a mercedes 300d.  I also added one (also mercedes) for my veg oil.  As they both share the same filter as my daily driver, I know I always have one around.  That being said, I'd get the same type of filter you already use on something else.

[Ronmar]

Veggie
Where did you run the bypass/return line from the injector to?

[mbryner]

Veggie:  very nice and clean.   Though you may be sorry about using that original tank, whether it leaks, or falls apart, or is just too small.  

Re: the return line from the injector: that was a question I asked on the old listerengine forum.   It's a low pressure line which has clean fuel in it.   Just T into the line going into the fuel filter, after the petcock under the fuel tank.   Or even between the filter and the fuel pump.

Geno: thank you, I didn't know about that.  

[veggie]

Yes, the stock fuel tank will be temporary.
First I need to get the engine running to test it out and observe the performance of my vibration isolators.
Then I can determine if I want to mount the radiator and circ. pump on the skid or on the wall.
I am aware that most people mount the Rad off-skid. However, I want to experiment with a compact pump/rad system mounted on the skid. I am bidding on a few motorcycle radiators which come with rubber mounts and cooling fans.

Currently the injector return line goes to the stock fitting on the stock tank.

mbryner,
Tee-ing the injector return line into the filter inlet hose seems like a good idea.

Veggie