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8/1 marathon run

Started by fabricator, February 01, 2012, 03:02:59 PM

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akghound

I simply went to CarQuest and bought some. Hung a couple up on the wall for spares. They were about a $.30 ea.
Ken Gardner
One Day At A Time 
2000 F450 7.3 Powerstroke / Home Built WVO conversion
96 Dodge Cummins 2500 4x4 / Homebuilt WVO conversion
Listeroid Generator on used ATF
Living off grid

dieselgman

#16
Sounds pretty good to me fab! We can't see a flaw in the old pump, but that is to be expected, they are a very finely lapped precision fit and there must be a flaw in that original element that was causing the erratic behavior.

For fuel pump supply line seal, Lister used what they call a Dowty washer. It is a steel washer with bonded rubber inner seal that squeezes onto the banjo threads and shoulder, and can conform to irregular surfaces - (within reason). The only drawback is they most often require replacement when removed and they are not easy on the pocketbook $$$  :'(

Your fuel costs sound great as well! Keep up the good work!

dieselgman
Ford Powerstroke, Caterpillar 3304s, Cummins M11, Too many Listers to count.

fabricator

Quote from: sailawayrb on February 01, 2012, 06:59:04 PM
Quote from: fabricator on February 01, 2012, 03:02:59 PM
The only thing I have now is a fuel leak in the copper washers on the banjo bolt on the injector pump, I'm considering trying some kind of hard plastic rings since that is low pressure there anyway, I wish it was tapped for pipe thread.

That was one of the first things I did.  That is, lost the banjo bolt and Indian rubber hose setup, drilled/tapped injector for NPT, then installed SS fittings and teflon line that could handle diesel/VO and being heated to 500 deg F.

Bob B.

This is the banjo bolt on the fuel pump, hmmmm, might be able to run a pipe tap in there, there is quite a bit of meat where the bolt threads in.

fabricator

Quote from: mike90045 on February 01, 2012, 07:13:37 PM
Quote from: Ronmar on February 01, 2012, 04:44:23 PM
Is the copper washer distorted?  If not, just heat it red hot to anneal/soften it and it should then be able to conform to the surfaces and make a seal...

How do you do that to prevent it from getting all "oxidiziey" and black flakes ?


That won't happen with copper.

fabricator

Quote from: BioHazard on February 02, 2012, 12:08:58 AM
Quote from: fabricator on February 01, 2012, 03:02:59 PM
with only a few hours down for an oil change

I always thought it would be neat to come up with a system that burns a metered amount of oil with your fuel from an add on oil tank, you'd never need to shutdown to change the oil, just top it off every now and then. (the way some big trucks work) I've seen aftermarket kits for this but I can't remember how they worked now....

There is such a system they use on big rigs, it burns an adjustable metered amount of engine oil and replaces it from a tank, you just need to keep the tank filled with new oil, that is an interesting thought though, might have to look into that.

fabricator

Quote from: playdiesel on February 02, 2012, 06:42:12 AM
Glad to hear it ran good once the pump problem was fixed!  

I have been replacing the copper washers with fiber washers and have had great luck with them as long as the surfaces are reasonable. Most of the Indian stuff will have burrs and dents that affect sealing, I just file them flat. Annealing the copper washers as suggested helps a lot too. Heat to dull red and quench and they will be dead soft.

Picture is one of many kits that are sold. Search for "red fiber wasers" or "sealing washers" or similar. Mine is much larger and came from Ebay. It has like 50 sizes from 1/8" hole to 1 1/4" with several O.D.s for each I.D.

Harbor Freight sells a small kit like this





Definitely one for the must have list.

fabricator

Quote from: BruceM on February 02, 2012, 06:48:34 AM
Congrats Fabricator!
After your first extended run, it might be a good idea to take a look at the upper bearing shell surface (on your next oil change).  This is really the only place on these engines where you can see the short term effects of dirt/sand.  Better to know, and take corrective action.

Best Wishes,
Bruce

I have been reading the threads about the solid upper shell, sounds like a damn good idea to me.

XYZER

Check the surface finish on the banjo polish if nessary. The copper work hardens and will not form and seal as well if lossened and the banjo is rotated then reused. Even the the surface finish on the pump can cause problems. Soft copper with a good surface should work great at least once.....good luck!
Vidhata 6/1, Power Solutions 6/1, Kubota Z482

ChrisOlson

Quote from: fabricator on February 02, 2012, 02:29:15 PM
There is such a system they use on big rigs, it burns an adjustable metered amount of engine oil and replaces it from a tank, you just need to keep the tank filled with new oil

Umm, not anymore they don't.  It's not only illegal to burn anything but low sulfur fuel in on-highway engines, traces of used engine oil in the fuel system can foul modern electronically controlled injection nozzles.  It lowers the cetane number of the fuel enough to cause significant ignition delay, which screws up the emission systems in modern diesels and will plug the DPF in short order.

Most OTR rigs use centrifuge cleaning systems to extend lube oil change intervals.
--
Chris

BioHazard

#24
Quote from: ChrisOlson on February 02, 2012, 08:52:39 PM
Umm, not anymore they don't.  It's not only illegal to burn anything but low sulfur fuel in on-highway engines, traces of used engine oil in the fuel system can foul modern electronically controlled injection nozzles.  It lowers the cetane number of the fuel enough to cause significant ignition delay, which screws up the emission systems in modern diesels and will plug the DPF in short order.

Not true. Still an option direct from Cummins:
https://qsol2.cummins.com/info/qsol/products/newparts/centinel.html

All engines burn oil, it's just a matter of how much. It's certainly not illegal, on road or off. I know they make aftermarket kits that do this, but I can't find any right now.
Do engines get rewarded for their steam?

billswan

Bio

Better go read the link you put up. You will find the following quote.

"- CENTINEL is the only oil management system to be EPA-certified for Tier 2"

I believe we are now at tier 4 or at least interim tier 4 which makes the centinel system some what obsolete.

Now maybe if you are running older engines that are tier 2 or older you might squeak by.

Billswan
16/1 Metro DI at work 900rpm and 7000watts

10/1 Omega in a state of failure

ChrisOlson

#26
That's correct.  All engines sold since 2008 can no longer use it.  Turbocharged engines are still allowed to vent the crankcase to the atmosphere.  But any engine using an exhaust aftertreatment system cannot use oil burning systems.

But the point is extended oil changes - the centrifuge cleaning system in use on most modern engines where extended change intervals are desirable have proven superior to the old Centinal style systems.  The centrifuge systems remove contaminants down to 1 micron, whereas conventional filtration systems are usually good to 10-15 micron.

With synthetics being spec'd by most manufacturers of Tier 4 diesels the issue no longer is replacing the oil, but keeping it clean.

Edit: At Cummins we played with centrifuge cleaning systems in the 80's on K-series genset engines and had limited success with them.  But the technology has improved significantly in the last 30 years to where they actually work.  With Dale's engine making a one month run (about 700 hours) on an oil change the best way to tell if oil change is actually required at that point is to stop into a fleet shop someplace and pick up an oil sample kit.  Send it in to the lab and have it analyzed to see much life was left in it, and what sort of metals and at what concentrations it contained.  If the spectrochemical analysis shows iron over 22 ppm and bearing materials like lead, tin and aluminum over 2 ppm, then you probably ran the oil too long.
--
Chris

BruceM

Chris, I was just wondering, how do the big rigs deal with the carbon issue in diesel motor oil.  I thought even centrifugal treatment wouldn't remove it.  Do the new centrifugal filters get the carbon out too?

Best Wishes,
Bruce

ChrisOlson

Most of the units I've seen have a pre-screen or filter that removes anything larger than 45 micron.  The centrifuge does the rest.
--
Chris

fabricator

One thing to remember here, we are dealing with stationary single cylinder engines burning basically anything that even looks a little greasy as long as you can heat it up and make it at least semi liquid, tranny fluid, used motor oil, bio diesel, waste vegetable oil, the
EPA can go take a flyin Fing leap as far as their tier system is concerned.
I believe lister originally called for 100 hours for the first oil change and 250 hours after that, with these things the oil turns black as coal after about 20 or 30 hours, pretty much like any diesel engine, I think I will have it analyzed next time, I'll bet they'll have to switch the machine to parts per thousand. ;D