A Simple Method for Pre-Oiling an Engine

[Horsepoor]

My intent was to post this comment on the old LEF thread related to Pre-Oiling but that forum is currently down for technical difficulties. A LEF member did a nice job posting a video illustrating how a small tube fixture, installed in the crankcase oil could splash oil all over the internal engine components with just a short blast of air. I was impressed by this short video clip of oil dripping down from most major components. This stated me thinking, here is my $3.99 contribution.

Whenever I start an engine that has been sitting for a while, I always check the oil level. For that matter, I check the oil level every 24 hrs when the engine is running, if not sooner also. So, I was thinking, the dip stick is already out for the oil level check, why not insert a slightly modified long ¼ inch air nozzle blower ($3.99 from Harbor Freight & Tools) down the dipstick hole and splash some oil up into the engine just the way the other member's video illustrated the Pre-Oiling?

In my approach, there is no drilling or machining to the Listeroid and the device can be used on both of my engines in seconds. Here is a picture of the unmodified 24 inch by ¼ inch air nozzle blower. I intend to shorten the bent end, plug the existing opening, and drill one or two small holes in the ¼ inch tube so that when submerged under crankcase oil and a blast of air is sent through the air nozzle, oil will splash up into the cylinders, piston, tappets, cam-bushings, etc.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-tool-accessories/air-blow-gun-with-2-ft-extension-68257.html

[dieselgman]

Looks like a simple and effective plan to me! 

dieselgman

[Horsepoor]

Busted - didn't work with the $3.99 Harbor Freight air nozzle, just built one. The tube is too thick to fit through the dip stick hole. Might work with 1/8 inch tube but that's pretty small.

[Ronmar]

It will work, it dosn't take much air to lift a significant ammount of oil up into the case...

[Tom Reed]

Just be careful not to blow all the sand and grit that's settled in the bottom of the sump all over the inside of the engine.

[Ronmar]

Well if it has been prepped properly,  you shouldn't have sand ANYWHERE:)  The airflow prettymuch only lifts the oil above the air port anyway.  Once the oil drops a little below the blowhole, it stops lifting oil.  I think I prefer to spray oil from the main lower sump, as this will deposit oil into/top-off the upper sump.  Blowing from the upper sump will do the opposite and lower the level that the dipper can draw from untill the oil pump moves enough oil to top it back off... 

[vdubnut62]

I made mine out of one of the cheap air blowguns and a 2 foot piece of 1/8 brake line, just screwed the orifice out of the blowgun
and matched up the threads with the ready made lines from the parts store.
Ron

[cujet]

Sounds like a great idea and I'm quite certain it will work perfectly. But you must have compressed air available.

[Ronmar]

Dosn't take much air.  A bicycle pump ought to work, even a small sports pump, like one you see in wallmart for filling basketballs and such.  A little air moves a lot of oil...

[Horsepoor]

I'm going to modify the $3.99 H.F. air nozzel with 1/8 inch brake line, my problem was the small dipstick oil hole didnt accept the 1/4 inch line. Also, both my enigine designs have the single level sump, and both engines were cleaned of sand upon inspection / rebuild before running. Oh, I got a $49.00 H.F. el-cheap-o pancake air compressor for Christmas. My plan is to ensure a sealed valve and leave it charged next to the listeroid.

[vdubnut62]

Oh, I got a $49.00 H.F. el-cheap-o pancake air compressor for Christmas. My plan is to ensure a sealed valve and leave it charged next to the listeroid.

Good luck with that
Ron

[Horsepoor]

You're correct on that, I'm sure those "high quality" chinese air compressor fittings would never leak. Might just use my 5 gallon portable air tank.

[Horsepoor]

Finally got around to making a "universal oiler". Cheap Harbor Freight & Tool air nozzel ($3.99), 3/16 inch brake line from auto parts store ($2.49), three very small holes drilled into the welded shut tip at 45 degree angles facing back up the shaft. Holes drilled at 90 degree increments around the shaft for 270 degree oil slash coverage. Insert shaft down the oil dip stick hole, a 2 or 3 second blast of air really splashes oil over nearly all of the internal engine parts. If I lift up and down an inch or two while blasting air, it splashes even more oil around inside the engine. On the my twin, I rotate the flywheel 180 degrees and hit the air blast for a second time (2 seconds or so) thus splashing oil around the other piston and associated assemblies. Oh, I plan on filing a couple of oil level marks onto the shaft so I can check the oil level during the pre oiling process. Very simple to make, hope this was helpful.

Bruce

[sailawayrb]

I dunno, I think I would worry about kicking up some sludge or some metal chips into the bearings.  Granted, if you have a rare earth magnet in the lower case, metal chips should not really be a problem...unless they came from the brass idler gear.  I think it is also worthwhile to open the door occassionally to poke around and make sure that everything is still in order (e.g., the dipper is still attached, etc).  I use over-sized thumb nuts to fasten the door to make access easier/quicker.

Bob B.

[Horsepoor]

For sure, I have magnets in the crankcase oil on both engines. I figured if I drilled the holes more than half an inch from the end of the air nozzle bottom end of the shaft, then any crud close to the end of the pipe and on the bottom would probably still be there after the pre-oiling.