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Filtering OIl

Started by dieselfox, October 17, 2011, 09:17:30 PM

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dieselfox

Gentlemen / Ladies

Has anyone put a oil filtration system on their Listeroid / Lister engine?  I am rebuilding an old engine which has screen for oil filtration meaning there is no oil filtration.  I am putting so much work in this rebuild, I would like it to last for a while.  Filtration will sure help.
I understand this would entail a separate pump.  Any, and I do mean any, info would be appreciated.

Dieselfox

LincTex

Metro 6-1 from Sam Crosby, 2007
Chang Chai 1110 - 18 HP

billswan

dieselfox

Look at this link http://www.generatorsales.com/order/Pipe_Set_for_Oil_Filter.asp?page=Pipe_Set_for_Oil_Filter

It is what I used to put a filter on my 10/1.

Personally i would use a new filter and chuck the filter that comes with it, the one i received was rusty inside. But the head and pipes worked fine.

Billswan
16/1 Metro DI at work 900rpm and 7000watts

10/1 Omega in a state of failure

dieselfox

Thanks Gentlemen

I knew I had seen it somewhere, I just could not find it. 

I have had some other thoughts on filtering.  Now that I see how the pump is set up, has anyone considered putting on the kind of filtration system which found in some bypass oil systems which can filter out down to one micron, meaning also filter out the soot. 

A regular filter takes out material 30 to 40 microns.  They can't do much better than than because they have to maintain full flow to the engine.  A bypass filter can do better than that because it filters less flow, but over an hour or so filters the entire amount of oil. 

This video demonstrates it.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcBRnyCSvo

Wondering if any of you have an opinion on it after you see this video.
Dieselfox

cujet

I've installed a Motorguard air filter, (available online at auto paint supply houses). It is, in essence, the very same as the Motorguard bypass oil filter from years ago. I even use the air filter elements with excellent results. Listeroid oil does not get hot enough to affect the plastic core on the air-elements.

While not the greatest pictures, you can see the Motorguard filter and the braided stainless oil lines coming from the oil pump. I discharge the oil into one of the drilled and tapped holes in the block, near the oil filter.

There is an orifice on the oil pump that prevents too much flow from going into the oil filter. So, if, for example the element was missing, there still would not be a significant flow rate through the Motorguard.




LowGear

#5
Wow.  What a perfect paint job.  How do you guys do this fabulous work?

Anyway;

I have one of those canister style oil filters where the element slides inside a filter can like pre full-flow automobile filters.  What would happen if I put one of these filters on my engine?  Or just converted to the spin on filter system - Any advantage?

It was nice to hear a spec on how small most automobile filters go.  I wonder if the cheaper ones get the smaller stuff or the standards are just less reliable?

Casey

cujet

Any spin on filter will provide more than adequate filtering and is probably the best and easiest solution. 100 billion internal combustion engines can't be wrong!

For those of us where "more than good enough" just ain't... There is the Motorguard or other bypass filter.

I'm not yet convinced an engine will last longer with a Motorguard. For example, my aircraft, a Cessna 177RG had NO oil filter, just a screen. And, not even a fine screen. Yet, the engine lasted 35 years of flying. The camshaft corrosion finally got it.

My 1998 Ford F150 4.6L, operated on Mobil 1, 10W-30 for nearly all of it's life, with 5000 mile oil change intervals regularly provided excellent UOA (used oil analysis) numbers showing nearly zero wear. 258,000 miles later, it's still running perfectly (gave it to my brother). The last spark plug change, I put a borescope down the hole. Guess what? Perfect cylinder honing still visible! And, that truck was worked hard, towed a overweight 35 foot trailer often, had shorty headers, a big exhaust, K+N filter, and a Superchips tuner that raised the redline, increased the shift RPM's and eliminated the top speed limitation.

Did I mention it still makes it to the next oil change without any addition of oil. Under the valve covers, it looks perfect, as do the cam lobes.

My point is: Maybe a bypass filter will result in cleaner oil. But, normal oil change intervals remove contaminates the proper way, by draining them out!

LowGear

I saw this youtube video yesterday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIx4Y3TvAPk&feature=related

Pretty interesting - huh?

Casey

dieselfox

#8
Cujet

Great comments.  It really gives me hope.  I too have used synthetic and hope it has made a difference in my diesel car.  
Your system belongs in an art museum.  The paint job is incredible.  

Casey
Interesting video on the different oil filters.

All input is appreciated.

Diesel fox

veggie

Hey Cujet,

To what location are you running the plastic excess fuel lines from your injectors?
Can't follow them in the picture.

cheers,
veggie

fabricator

You could get one of those units some big rigs run, they have an oil resevoir, the unit diverts an adjustable amount of oil into the fuel system constantly, you never change the oil you just add to the resevoir, you adjust the amount of oil diverted to keep the oil at your preferred level of purity.

cujet

Quote from: veggie on October 20, 2011, 03:29:56 PM
Hey Cujet,

To what location are you running the plastic excess fuel lines from your injectors?
Can't follow them in the picture.

cheers,
veggie

I run the Lister twin from a 6 gallon "outboard engine" type fuel tank. Complete with squeezy bulb! I simply put the return line in the cap. As the cap has a screw off air bleed that I remove. Super high tech! Runs for half a day on 6 gallons, without sucking up air. I can change fuel tanks while running, as the squeezy bulb simply collapses a bit when I disconnect the QD connections.

LincTex

I was at a truck salvage yard recently to pick up a big ol' Leece-Neville alternator, and saw a wrecked truck with a big Luber-Finer cannister on the side. (Like this one - below)  I got it for $10.
I am going to open the restrictor orifice little larger, and run oil through it with a belt driven power steering pump.

Metro 6-1 from Sam Crosby, 2007
Chang Chai 1110 - 18 HP