Belarus 250AS Tractor

[WStayton]

Hello All!

  I have returned from transporting siding and am back in circulation, more or less!  <grin>  Shorter trip than you mobilebob, but then, I had to make two of them to get it all in - due to space, weight and slow removers!  Nothing EVER works out like you think its going to!  <smile>

  Once again, I wasn't quite sure where to put this, so if a Moderator thinks it should be some place else, please move it, at your discretion.

  Anyhow, new problem . . .

  I bought a 1986 Belarus model 250AS diesel tractor off of CraigsList - basically for the price of scrap, $1,200.  The tractor has a two cylinder, direct injected engine of 2.08 Liters displacement, 16.5:1 compression ratio, and, kinda novel, at least for a tractor, it is air cooled.  Idle rpm is 800 and WOT on the governor is 1800 +/- 25 rpm. Engine is rated at 28 HP.

  The previous owner had run it out of fuel, a year and a half ago (!) and couldn't get it to start subsequently.  Basically he didn't know how to bleed the system AND the little hand toggle boost pump thingy that purges the system of air had died, I think from just sitting with no fuel - the o-rings dried out and it wouldn't pump diddley.  A replacement pump was only $60 so I bought one and new fuel filters and a pair of big A$$#D 6 Volt batteries and put it all back together and bled it in accordance with the manual (oh, I bought the manual, too!) and after a little cranking, it sprang to life!  It only ran on one cylinder (out of two) for a while, but, eventually, they both fired and it seemed to clean up and have basically colorless exhaust.

  Now for the new problem, if any of you guys are familiar with this model of Belarus, please speak up:  When I put it in gear (you have to have everything in neutral to get it to crank) and released the clutch, exactly NOTHING happened!!!  It didn't budge or even groan, just kept happily purring away.  When I tried another gear, the stick "chattered" slightly, like something was turning in the gearbox, but no matter what gear, it still wouldn't even try to move.

  There are basically two gear selectors on this model - one of them has a selector for gears one through eight and the other selector lever is basically just a revereing lever, with positons for "Forward", "Neutral" and "Reverse", with reverse only working in gears 3 through 8, 1 & 2 being just forward "creeper" gears.

  I have greased the grease fitting on the clutch, but it still does not seem to go all the way in to "engage" leaving about 1.5" of play in the pedal - Manual says that it should have 0.50 inch to 0.75 inch,  I can easily adjust this out of the linkeage per the procedure in the manual involving disconnecting the linkeage and taking up the slack by turning an adjustment in or out, but I didn't want to do this and then have to undo it when I find out that something else was hanging up the clutch.  If I had not felt the gear chatter in the shift lever, I would think that it was just not engaging, but the fact that the gears chattered during engagement means, I would think, that power is being applied to the gear box.

  So, before I pull out what little hair I have left, anybody have any ideas?

  All responses are gratefully solicited and appreciated!

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton

[vdubnut62]

Wayne, I have a 420AN, basically the same,just bigger and 4x4, here goes- pull the oval shaped door/access panel on the floor that sits kinda between your feet- 2  9/16 bolts IIRC. You can see the pressure plate from there.
Check to see if the throwout bearing is rusted to or bound up with dried grease to the tranny snout. The 3 fingers on the pressure plate adjust to
100 thousandths clearance from the throw out bearing, if memory serves. (All this is in the manual) Make sure the fork is engaged in the throwout bearing correctly. Grease the fork pivots, one on each side.
The next thing is the forward/reversing/low range shifter,(I'm not sure, but I think you should have a low range in there- mine does) it can get between the gears and then you will be in neutral, make sure the roll pin is tight and the lever is moving the shaft correctly, on mine the steel hydraulic lines can get in the way of full engagement.
Also, once I had one of the adjusting bolts on the pressure plate to pop the head off for no apparent reason, you will be able to find that when you
pull the aforementioned dustcover/oval shaped door.
Oh, I have 2 of these darn things-one for parts!
For stuff you don't want to pay retail for, I can hook you up with a fellow over in the Ukraine that I get expensive parts from, even with shipping the cost is close to half.  You already know what my disclaimer is!
Good luck!  Ron

[WStayton]

vdubnut6:

  Thanx for the tips!

  I read on a forum somewhere that the "mode selector" could be the problem . . . So I guess that is where I go next!  Oh,  the mode selector has just the three positions I mentioned, but the range selection is part of the gear selector lever - not part of the mode selector as your is.

  The clutch access plate on the 250AS is out in the open below the floor - nothing needs to be removed to get to it and I have been in there and greased it and cleaned it a little, the "forks" appeared to be okay and doing their job, but I will give that another look see.  The whole tractor could use a bath in solvent to get it cleaned up and all of the fluids should, probably be changed, but I was trying to get it home before I undertook that task!

  I am reasonably impressed with the Belarus, so far.  They seem like a reasonably well built, very (make that VERY! <grin>) sturdy machine.  It would seem that the factory motto must be:  "If in doubt, add more cast iron!".  I was surprised that a basic two bottom plow tractor weighed a max of 6,600 lbs!  Of course this does include ballast by filling the wheels with calcium chloride solution, but even with everything empty, it still weighs 4,400 lbs!

  Thanx for pointing me to the guy in the Ukraine - I just "HOPE" that I don't need anything big/heavy/expensive!  <grin> Small parts seem to be pretty reasonably priced, at least relative to the J/D's and Massey Fergueson (sp?) parts!  If you go in to the John Deere dealer to buy ANYTHING, they pratically want a net worth statement before they will even talk to you!  <smile>

  I KNEW that if i asked on here somebody would have an idea of what the problem might be!  Moral of the story:  When in doubt, ask!

  Oh, and about having a SECOND tractor for parts - with a grand total of 14 acres, including the roadway, its right of way, house, outbuildings, etc., etc., I think I may be way "over-tractored" with one, but it was pretty cheap and is a fun toy to play with, so I wrote it off as "entertainment"!  <grin>  But if another one pops up cheap on CraigsList, anything is possible!

  Thanx again for the hints/help, there is just no substitute for talking/typing to somebody who has been-there/done-that!

  I'll let you know when/if progrees is made!

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton

[vdubnut62]

Wayne, my "mode selector" also has 3 positions, all the way down is direct, one position up reverses whatever gear you happen to be in,
3rd position will make a creeper gear out of 1-4 and reverse, the manual says not to use the reduction in 5th and 6th. (Mine has a 6 speed gearbox)
You will get all kinds of ideas when you see the centrifugal oil filter, so beware! You have been warned.
Ron

Oh and the hand pump you mentioned, it and the main lift pump it bolts to was I think 20 bucks plus shipping

[WStayton]

vdubnut62:

  The transmission setup on mine is slightly different from what you describe - It is basically a 4 forward speeds with a "multiplier" that then gives you a high and low of all 4 speeds - so you have a total of eight useable speeds.  The the "mode selector lets you have Revers or Forward, excpt that forward only in the two slowest gears which are 0.83 MPH and 1.22 MPH respectively.  If you select "Reverse" while in one of the two slowest speeds, it behaves as I have described for EVERYTHING now - i.e. nothing happens!
Maybe the other gears have just learned bad habits? <grin>

  All of the above is from the manual - so far I have only got it to run, not move!

  I was sort of surprised that it had a centrifugal oil filter - sure cuts down on the price of oil filter changes! <smile>  I am sure that when I open it and clean it I will find that it has a ton of crap caked in the bottom from lots of operation with no service.  The engine oil looks like coal, but diesel oil sorta always looks dirty except right after an oil change - but I would be willing to bet that the oil that is in it has had a couple or three birthdays!

  The tach, which seems to work, says that it has 1,600 hours on it, which I didn't think was really a lot.  I seem to remember my dad telling me John Deere two cylinder diesels usually needed an overhaul at 5,000 to 6,000 hours.  If that's right, and the wear of this entirely different engine is anything like a JD, I should have a long time before I'm buying rings and grinding valves.

  I was thinking that the first thing I should do when I get it home is change all the fluids - gear box oil, hydraulic fluid, and engine oil.  If the diesel fuel filters are any indication things have to be grungy, since I scooped a handful of crud out of the bottom of both fuel filter housings, along with bits and pieces of the prime pump o-rings.  Oh, and the $60 for the primer pump also include the two fuel filters and two o-rings to seal them and shipping, so I don't think I got raped TOO bad! <grin>

  Is shipping on small parts from overseas a big-deal-expensive, or no?  I suppose that you also have to contend with customs?

  My experience with customs is limited to handling US made aircraft parts (JT-8 engines, etc.) but they were all made here, so cutoms was pretty perfunctory.  Sometimes they wanted you to show them the "Made in the USA" tag, but normally, if you put US made on the documents, they just stamped them and told you to "Beat it!"  <smile>

  Oh, does your tractor have funny little wound wire fuses with a spare length of wire would around one side of them?  Talk about cheap and simple - though it is real hard to tell one size from another because the writing all comes off so you have to guess, based on the wire diameter, what fuse you actually have in your hand!  I know that they are definately cheaper than US made glass enclosed fuses but some things I am willing to pay for!

  Oh, just one more thing -they list 3 different single weight oils and one multi-weight and then say that single weight oil is "preferred".  I am confused by this - if single weight is preferred, why bother to list the multi-weight?  Does your tractor have this same "suggestion" and, if so, what do you use, single or multi-weight?

  Again, thanx for holding my hand - maybe I can get out there and see if I can accomplish anything in the next day or so.  Living 50 miles away from your residence in progress IS definately a PIA, both from a standpoint of access AND progress!

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton

[vdubnut62]

Wayne, the fuses in mine look like 60's vintage VW fuses--not wire wound. My poor old tractor was rode hard and put up wet-a lot.
From the looks of it I think it was used in a creekbed to load creek gravel.
I don't think it ever spent a night inside until I got it. I paid 3500 for the tractor with a MEMO quick change front end loader on it and the front axle
badly damaged. The engine had around 900 hours on it. I bought another 420 that had burned and repaired the good tractor, 900 bucks for a burned out hulk was cheaper than the parts mine needed. I was told the loader sold for over $4000, so I think I got a good deal.
As for oil, I just use 10w-40 Rotella. I added a spin on  VW diesel fuel filter and an electric pusher pump because the OEM cartridge filters are such a pain to change and stop them from leaking.(they do not come with new O rings, they are sold separately I discovered)
Anyway PM me and I will give you a call and TRY to help to the best of my meager abilities, if you need it.
Sorry I forgot---no customs on  parts, that I am aware of, I just get a package in the mail.
Ron

[WStayton]

vdubnut62:

  Unfortunately my career in tractor repair, and EVERYTHING else, got placed on temporary hold today . . .

  I was loading one of three 2" x 24" x 48", 300 pound granite slabs that I bought (cheap - $100 total, out the door, need I say more? <grin>) and as one of them was about to enter my pickup, I tripped and woundg up laying in the dirt with mt right hand under the granite slab!!!  OUCH, OUCH, OUCH!!!

  Anyhow, net result was three broken bones in my hand, a cast, and STRICT instructions to do NOTHING from the Orthropod who treated me, at least until I see him in two weeks!!!

  I can't even drive - ever try to shift a five speed with your hand in a boxing glove???  <grin>  Oh, and typing with one hand is not a lot of fun either!

  So, I'll be sitting here for two weeks thinking about all things should/could/want to do!

   What can I say, lifes a B!%#H and then you die!!!  <smile>

  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton

[Lloyd]

Hey Wayne,

Sorry to hear about the injury....follow doctor orders...in the long run you'll be glad yo did.

Look at the bright-side...your last message almost qualifies as succinct <GRIN>

Lloyd

[Carlb]

you will now need to either make shorter replies or spend numerous hours typing them out. 

Carl

[vdubnut62]

Sorry about your unfortunate turn of events, and hope your healing progresses well and fast.
Ron

[Tom Reed]

Well can't you get your wife to turn the wrenches for you? Heal quickly. Check out Maca for healing those bones faster.

[WStayton]

Hi All!

  I can report a new appreciation for oxycodone!!!  REALLY takes the edge off of the pain!!!  <grin>

About the wife:

  I never acquired one of those - almost a couple of times, but always came to my senses ( or NOT!! <grin>) at the last minute.

  Flying for a living was pretty hard on relationships, too.  They aren't too understanding when your supposed to be going to a party with them and you wind RON'ing in Montevideo!

  On balance, living a more "normal" life, settled down and adhering to the grind sometimes looked very desireable - other times, not so much!!!  <grin>

  My arm, at least what is available for viewing, is really pretty today - blue, green, black with a scattering of red and some brown scabs!!  Very polychrome!!!  <smile>

  Thanks, everybody, for the kind words!

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton

[vdubnut62]

Come on Wayne! At least bribe someone to give you a hand. And here I was really starting to think you were edumacated.
Beer is the universal language.You can lie, beg or coerce, then hand 'em a cold beer and Presto, instant free(almost) labor
Ron

[WStayton]

vdubnut6;

  Actually, I whimpered and cried and convinced my brother and my brother-in-law to unload while I watched/supervised . . .

  No beer required, YET!  But I am SURE the bill is coming!

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton

[rcavictim]

Sorry to hear about your mishap Wayne.  Hope you are a good boy and stay off that injury so it can heal.

I had an extremely close call the other day.  I had just scored a Model 19, Mk-III tank radio set all complete on the carrying board and was following with the back while a friend helped on the front carrying it to my shop from the trailer.  I have a rail track system here which allows a 8x8 foot low profile test car platform to roll in and out of the HV lab and 50 feet out into the work yard.  My left leg didn't follow a lift command and my left foot did not clear the track.  I went down really hard and just barely avoided doing a face plant on hard steel track by mere inches.  Somehow instinctively I did a roll manouver mid fall as though I had a cat's tail as a counterpoise and landed on my right shoulder and arm on gravel, not my face on steel.  My arm and shoulder is still sore almost a week later.  Lucky I didn't snap a collar bone too!  This could have been bad.