Listeroid un-crating!

[veggie]

Yes, any small gear pump will probably do the job.
If you drive it with an electric motor, just make sure you drive it at the right speed for the capacity of the filter.
In my case I used a belt drive to slow the gear pump to 500 rpm in order to give me about 2 gallons per minute of flow through the filter.
Also consider putting a pressure gauge on the filter inlet piping and make a note of the pressure when the filter is new.
This way you have an indicator as the filter clogs up.

I put a Tee on the crankcase drain plug and piped it to the pump inlet.
The pump is driven from a pulley on the listeroid crankshaft.

cheers,
veggie

[LincTex]

Also consider putting a pressure gauge on the filter inlet piping and make a note of the pressure when the filter is new.
This way you have an indicator as the filter clogs up.

Hmm... It will be relavent to flow, but most oil filters have a built in by-pass if you exceed pressure differential. For instance, if the valve is set at 10 psi differential and your oil pressure gauge before and after read 50psi and 40psi respectively, the internal bypass may open (10 psi drop)

But hold your horses... your filter would have to be AMAZINGLY plugged to open the internal bypass. I'll bet you can run a oil filter for 500 hours and you won't see the pressure climb but just a few PSI.

It is VERY difficult to plug a modern automotive style full-flow oil filter. Not impossible, but you would need to be VERY negligent in your servicing and maintenance to make it happen.

[veggie]

If the filter head goes into bypass mode, you probably wont here it due to engine noise.
A gauge is the only way to know if the filter back-pressure is rising.
I have a 0-30 psi gauge on my filter which currently reads 5 psi when running. However I have not run it long enough to agree or disagree with your comments.

veggie

[LincTex]

I have a 0-30 psi gauge on my filter which currently reads 5 psi when running.

You would need another gauge on the outlet side to measure pressure drop.

5 psi on inlet AND outlet = 0 psi drop through the filter.

5 psi on the inlet and 0 psi on the outlet = a 5 psi pressure drop through the filter.

[veggie]

Linktex

If the discharge of the filter is into the  crankcase (NO PRESSURE) then a second gauge is not necessry. The pressure on the discharge side of the filter never changes.
So....only one gauge is required.
as shown in this vid...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUzrJx6Sh90

Veggie

[LincTex]

If the discharge of the filter is into the  crankcase (NO PRESSURE) then a second gauge is not necessry.

Have you considered plumbing the filtered oil (under pressure) to areas that need more lubrication?
I have considered adding a jet to spray the underside of the piston crown, as nearly all other modern diesels do.

[SHIPCHIEF]

Here is a link:
http://www.utterpower.com/turbo_6_1.htm
This is from George's CD.
It's got a turbocharger, a starter, a remote oil pump and custom oil plumbing.
I read it every now-and-then....I alread copied Henry's starter.
Now I'm copying his Turbo. 

[veggie]

Have you considered plumbing the filtered oil (under pressure) to areas that need more lubrication?
I have considered adding a jet to spray the underside of the piston crown, as nearly all other modern diesels do.

That's a good idea.
The GM90's have a pressure pump in the crankcase which feeds the con rod bearing, however the TRB's are splash lube.
I suppose a couple of tubes could be run to the main bearings to provide a positive oil feed.

veggie

[LincTex]

I suppose a couple of tubes could be run to the main bearings to provide a positive oil feed.

I doubt it's needed - TRB's need little more than an occasional misting.

[SHIPCHIEF]

The GM90 has dubious pressure lube to the rod bearings, although it is pretty slick.
it has a ring dam that holds oil centrifugally around the main bearing, and oil moves by centrifugal force out the crank to the rod journal.
Not very much pressure, but it is a force of nature, and continuous as long as the engine runs and the pump keeps filling the ring dam.
I'm not sure if it's better than dippers, which never fail unless the oil gets low.
The ring dam slinger squeeks the rod bearing when the pump fails....but the oil would have to get very low before the bearing went dry as long as the pump works.
Take your pick I guess. Something to like in both systems.

[veggie]

SHIPCHIEF,

Actually the GM90 has a pressure lube system dedicated to the con rod brg.
A plunger pump runs on an eccentric actuator on the crankshaft.
It's the blue item in the picture below...

veggie

[SHIPCHIEF]

Thanks!!
I misunderstood. I must have been looking at poorer pictures.  
Still, If you replace "ring dam that holds oil centrifugally" with 'oil rotoseal coupler' ...I still think my previous post has merit.
The plunger does squirt oil into the coupler, but after the squirt pulse is over, centrifugal force is always there pushing the oil outward to the bearing.
I sure would like to figure out a way to adapt pressure lube to my 25/2 rod & main bearings. Maybe I could drill the crank the next time I have it out 
the idea of those dippers throwing dirty unfiltered oil around the the inside of the engine and all...

[XYZER]

I installed a "slinger" type oiler on my 6/1 filtered the oil supply and found to much oil in areas can be a problem. Mine would slobber terrable with the rod oil slinger in operation. I never could get it to break in. I dissconnected the slinger oil supply and it cured most of it. The abundant oil supply appears to be flooding the underside piston with more than the piston and rings could handle. I am not sure but I believe the original Listers may have fought this. Dippers were sometimes installed to slice instead of splash, A shield in the crankcase to prevent splash, some had hollow dippers some not. I am not sure if some engines had minor piston and ring changes to accomadate the abundtant oil supply. No facts just what I have observed your oil may do differently.

[SHIPCHIEF]

XYZR;
That's a very nice picture of a very nice piece of work. Too bad it didn't turn out like you planned.
I've got your Idler gear bolt, and the plain upper bearing inserts, fed by ASHWAMEGH hollow dippers (drilled bolts)
I can't help thinking some additional tinkering could have made it work, like a spray shield over the ring dam or something. did you remove the dipper during the trial?
As with my turbo experiment, I presume you did it for the fun of trying to make it better. These engines are a kick to work on.