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Waterless coolants.

Started by billswan, March 20, 2011, 09:06:20 PM

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billswan

guys

Anyone here tried to use something other than water in a diesel or other engine for coolant?

Some years ago I read an article about using a waterless coolant and reverse coolant flow to try and improve engine efficiency.

Ran onto another article about waterless coolants and a company selling it   http://www.evanscooling.com/.

This winter as I worked with my 10/1 and 16/1 roids I thought about trying reverse flow and a higher temp thermostat. But the highest temp thermostat I could find was 221 degrees F and it cost 85$ and would have required a complete different housing than the 205 F thermo I am using. So being the thermo was that expensive I dropped that Idea.

By the way the article about the waterless coolant says the stuff costs about 40 to 43 $ per gallon :o

Was thinking if my 16/1 was running at 230 to 240 f it might burn that WMO better with less injector fowling!

Comments anyone?


Billswan
16/1 Metro DI at work 900rpm and 7000watts

10/1 Omega in a state of failure

rcavictim

#1
You could use polly alloy liquid metal.   You might have to constantly dodge swords and stabbing weapons emanating from the coolant filler every time you remove the inspection cap though. ;)  On the plus side any leaks, even large ones would be self healing.  8)
"There are more worlds than the one you can hold in your hand."   Albert Hosteen, Navajo spiritual elder and code-breaker,  X-Files TV Series.

wiebe

kubota knd3

BioHazard

I can understand a hotter cooling system making the engine more efficient...but what does reverse cooling have to do with it?
Do engines get rewarded for their steam?

billswan

Quote from: BioHazard on March 21, 2011, 03:16:28 AM
I can understand a hotter cooling system making the engine more efficient...but what does reverse cooling have to do with it?

Well if the bottom of the cylinder is as hot as the top it is hoped that will make a more efficient engine.

Most roids run quite cool on the bottom end so a hotter top end would help cure that.

Not saying it might take slightly modified piston to sleeve clearances. But my guess is that the roids already are lose enough already. :'(

Billswan
16/1 Metro DI at work 900rpm and 7000watts

10/1 Omega in a state of failure


mike90045

Quote from: veggie on March 21, 2011, 09:20:06 AM
Dowtherm heat transfer medium....

http://www.dow.com/heattrans/prod/synthetic/dowtherm.htm

maybe I'll use hydraulic fluid or transmission fluid. Would seepage into the head cause run-on ?? The Dow stuff is a tad pricey. 

Crofter

You would not want an oil leak into the combustion chamber of a diesel! run away maybe, not run on. In any case it would have much reduced cooling capacity. Less than half the specific heat of water, greater viscosity and no possibility to use the very effective latent heat of steaming for borderline cooling of hot spots. Not sure about compatibility of sleeve O ring seals. Some engines actually used different material for the coolant side and the crankcase side O Ring.
Frank


10-1 Jkson / ST-5

cognos

You could just use regular motor oil... but the cooling system will have to be at least double the size of a water-based cooling system, and you'll have to move a lot of air through your radiator. I'd be concerned that the heat transfer from the engine to the oil would be too low to keep the engine temp under control - the surface area of the engine remains the same, but your heat transfer ability to the working fluid goes way down.

Only benefit I can see is no worries about freeze damage, lower expansion/contraction with temp change, and possibly some corrosion protection.

I've seen sealed oil-cooled systems, both mineral oil and silicone-based systems, in the field. Severe service only, critical components that require ultra-minimal maintenance - and they cost what you would expect such a system would - many times a regular water-based system.

ToddT

I've been using the Evans non-water coolant in my Powerstroke Ford for about 200,000 miles. I like that it doesn't wear out and doesn't allow for corrosion (no water, no rust!). I don't have to worry about coolant levels or anything else. Good stuff.

I also run a 203 degree F thermostat.

LowGear

OK!  I'll try it again. 

Back on the other site I suggested using the fuel as the coolant.  It's always being refreshed and it's coming into the injector pump at about 200 degrees once the engine warms up.  Pretty great idea, Huh?

Casey

billswan

casey

OIL and fuel do not have the btu carrying capacity like water does. Oils take on heat slowly and release slowly. Many years ago my brother and I tried it with a straight 6 chev engine. Used straight engine oil in the cooling system. It worked only because he used it for short trips to work . He lived about 5 blocks from this job. But when he tried to drive it out to the farm which was 5 miles it would run VERY hot. The oil just could not haul the heat out of the engine fast enough. If the trip would have been 50 miles he would have never made it even half way before the whole thing would have went up in a blazing inferno.

Billswan.
16/1 Metro DI at work 900rpm and 7000watts

10/1 Omega in a state of failure

Mack_59

I tried the Evans coolant in a JD R. It did not work very good. The reason was the R was a thermosiphon system. The Evans would have worked if there was a coolant pump.

Jedon

I run Evans NPG+ in my 400HP rotary ( 93 RX-7 ). I run a 5psi cap. It seems to run a little hotter but doesn't boil so no localized hot spots ( steam ) that cause engine damage.
My water pump went out and it got really hot but lived, I am convinced it saved my engine.