Kubota D1005 3-cylinder diesel, direct drive 1800 RPM generator project

[highwater]

This is making it very hard to keep thinking about building a tank.

and the shipping calculator says 15 US bucks to my residential door.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200104874_200104874?cm_ven=natural&cm_cat=netconcepts&cm_pla=Google&cm_ite=

It will drop right in the frame.

Randall

[Henry W]

Hi Randal,

I have a tank manufacture that will build a custom tank to your size with feed/return lines and guage assembly to your liking some place at home. Remind me about this.

Henry

[highwater]

Hey thanks Henry,

too late.....got one on the way.

probably save me 2 months time to drop this one in.
and leave me room in the other end of the frame for the 12v battery.

I hope to keep up with your quality work on the rest of this project.

I have a handfull of Murphy gauges on the way also.

Randall

[Henry W]

Ok,

That is a good tank and it will work fine.

We need pictures once its in.

Henry

[quinnf]

Don't want to splash cold water in your face, but one reason aluminum isn't frequently used for marine tanks containing diesel fuel is that if any water makes it into the tank it will sit on the bottom of the tank and extract any free sulfur from the fuel.  Sulfur + water forms sulfuric acid, which will pinhole aluminum.  I've seen it happen.  Marine diesel tanks are usually of SS or monel.

However, perhaps with the recent EPA Imperial Decree for low sulfur content in diesel fuels that will no longer be a problem.  Just thought I'd mention it.

All the foregoing aside, that's a nice tank for the money.  The materials cost and work involved hardly make it worth making your own at that price.

Quinn

[highwater]

Perhaps I missed something somewhere.

I see aluminum tanks strapped to both sides of rigs running up and down the interstate all the time.

And I haven't ordered the prop yet anyway.

Randall

yep pics to follow

[mobile_bob]

i don't know for sure, but i think i read somewhere that marine diesel much like some grades of heating oil
and locomotive fuel is much higher in sulphur content.

sulfur is has been cut back more and more in motor fuel for many years now starting at a much lower level way back in the 60's or early 70's iirc.

that and boat sit around with tanks of fuel for longer periods of time than does the typical truck, and i would expect that because of the way they take the fuel out of the truck tanks, water doesn't sit in the tank for long at all.. it ends up in the fuel water separator.

aluminum tanks have been around for nearly 40 years that i know of on trucks, and never heard of an issue with leaching sulfur out of the fuel as being a problem... with todays fuels being ultra low sulfur
i can't imagine much of an issue?  if in doubt perhaps the fuel conditioners that are widely available have some sort of buffering agent to keep the water from attaching to the sulfur molecule to start with?

just speculating here...

if anyone knows about chemistry it is Quinn, so i will defer to him on the finery details

bob g

[highwater]

Hope I don't start an argument.
And not doubting anyone's knowledge or input.

Just don't think this project will float.
Randall

[mobile_bob]

awe heck, sure it will float
just keep strappin on more inner tubes!

do they even make those anymore?



bob g

[Henry W]

If it does not float install a snorkel. 

[vdubnut62]

Sure they still make innertubes.  I just bought a 14.9-30 for my Belarus, it came in @ $42 and change-  sans shipping and tax, so keep strappin' em on till it floats.
Ron

[quinnf]

Bob,

Let me clarify:  Aluminum tanks are only a problem iwhen they sit for a long time not moving.  It takes time for a water droplet on the bottom of an aluminum tank to extract enough sulfur out of fuel oil to do its dirty deed.  But an unlined aluminum tank holding diesel with water droplets on the bottom will eventually pinhole.  You wouldn't see that problem on a truck because trucks get used and the water moves around and eventually gets picked up and removed in the water separator or it gets drained out in a sump.  My concern would be for a stationary tank, but I suppose Bob, you know of something you can slosh around in the bottom of fuel tanks to seal pinhole leaks. 

Quinn

[mobile_bob]

ah.. good info Quinn thanks for the clarification

as for a tank sealer,,,

every diy'er with a fuel tank of any kind in and around something that might be a problem should your tank start to leak, drip or run out of a tiny hole should have a bar of Ivory soap on any it quick reach of the tank.

ivory soap rubbed over a hole, crack or even a gash in a tank will seal off the leak and stop the leak completely and it will remain so until  you either fix the leak or wash the soap off.

it will also work on oil pans, and transmission pans.

i used to carry a bar on my service truck to seal off truck tanks when they got gashed or punctured in some manner and was faced with an epa problem..

it also works on hydraulic oil tanks, and gasoline tanks.

can't tell you guys how many times that bar of soap trick got me out of a huge jamb.

bob g

[Tom Reed]

In the fire department we use a product called plug n' dyke that is mostly bentinite clay.

[highwater]

Ok, I see that the stated concern was for condensation in the aluminum tank, not for MARINE use.

You may have to step over my attempt at humor.

So at this point in the life of the new aluminum tank, should IT be coated on the inside for the "do it before you need it type"?

For many years I have topped off/refilled fuel tanks when done with a piece of petrol burning machinery.
Done mowing, fill up the mower.
Done with the tractor, fill up the tractor.

Was taught long ago, fill it up to push the air out of the tank when your done.

To coat or not to coat?  hmmm

Randall