Newbie 1st post

[lessersivad]

Hello to all.

This my 1st post but I have been lurking for a bit.

I don't have a diesel prime mover as of yet. I do have a propane carburated Ford 2.3 that I use as a prime mover running an ST15. I built it after the wonderful blackout of 2003. I only run it once it a while. Not exactly fuel efficient.

I have been using a WVO/diesel blend in a couple of vehicles for the past few years with pretty good results. All the vehicles are older GM IDI powered and so far, so good.

Now I'm trying to "move it up a notch" by getting a suitable diesel for the ST15.

I'm sure I will have questions and thanks for a great site.

[wrightkiller]

Welcome aboard Brother....Let the fun begin

[veggie]

Welcome,

You should find a lot of useful information here.
You probably have a lot to share with us also.

cheers,
veggie

[lessersivad]

Thanks for the welcomes.

I don't know how much info I may have, but if I can ever contribute to the obviously large knowledge bank I will certainly try.

Thanks again.

[SteveU.]

Hello/Welcome,
I know people who wish to use this 2.3 SOHC FORD engine on woodgas.
Could you please describe how you coupled it to a ST15 gen head? Belts? Pulleys? Direct drive? Then how did you mount/couple it?
Running 1800 or 1500 RPM?
What has been your minimum baseline Propane consumption? Your maximum under load?
You see you already do have a lot you can contribute.
Thanks.
Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh

[lessersivad]

Hey there Steve,

Sorry to say, I don't have any fuel consumption numbers. Not even a clue.

As for the coupling, 6 rib micro V or serpentine belt. 1800 RPM. Speed is controlled by an electronic governor that gets it's signal from the coil. Like a tachometer.

I installed a points style ignition so I didn't have to mess with the electronic ignition.
(I used to sell a bunch of the 'ol style electronic modules for Fords, back in the day.)

The gen head is mounted on a sliding type mount that sits on top of the same 6" I beams the engine is mounted to. This whole rig is portable and enclosed. Much like the portable light trailers used on construction sites.

I wish I had some hard figures or even a good guesstimate for you, but unfortunately I don't.

[squarebob]

Welcome aboard. Don't forget we really like pictures!!

Bob

[SteveU.]

Hey lesserslvad
Thanks for the info. My interest is real. I've owned and operated three of these engines and still lots of them and parts around in Ranger pickups.
So you are running the engine at 1800 RPM same as the current Ford direct drive commercial units, but belt driving 1 to 1 to the gen-head. The only 6 groove front crank hub pulleys I've seen are V8 diesels so I'll figure you must be rear engine driving?
If so, how did you pulley adapt that end please??
A six groove poly belt could transfer the 20-30 hp on a smoother 4 cly output if the drive pulley was large enough and grooved for full side V contact.

Regards
SteveU.

[RogerAS]

Hey lesserslvad
Thanks for the info. My interest is real. I've owned and operated three of these engines and still lots of them and parts around in Ranger pickups.
So you are running the engine at 1800 RPM same as the current Ford direct drive commercial units, but belt driving 1 to 1 to the gen-head. The only 6 groove front crank hub pulleys I've seen are V8 diesels so I'll figure you must be rear engine driving?
If so, how did you pulley adapt that end please??
A six groove poly belt could transfer the 20-30 hp on a smoother 4 cly output if the drive pulley was large enough and grooved for full side V contact.

Regards
SteveU.

Steve,

I have a '92 Ranger 2.3 Liter EFI 4X4 and it has the 6 groove serpentine pulley to drive the alt, AC, water pump and PS. I only have 238K on that little junker.

Just sayin'

R

ETA;

Sorry for failing to offer my welcome lesserslvad. This is a great forum full of good info.

[lessersivad]

Hi Steve,

Driving off the front. Using the former A/C drive pulley on the front of the crank.

The engine is from a 1983 Ranger if that helps in your search/research of parts.
I'm not sure what other years may have the A/C pulley mounted outward of the regular W/P, Alt. pulley.

I also changed out the stock engine alternator for a GM with built in regulator.

I tried to use the KISS principle as much as possible. Except for the electronic governor I think it turned out OK.

Oops, forgot to add, yes this is being run at 1800 RPM.

[lessersivad]

@ rogerAS, squarebob

Thanks for the welcomes

[vdubnut62]

lessersivad, Hello and welcome  from TN. This is a pretty tolerant bunch, they haven't blackballed me yet! Oh, and they are 'way smart too!
Ron

[SteveU.]

Yessir that helps.
Mine were an 80 Pinto SW, 81 Fairmont SW, both V belted; and an 83 Ranger PU but NONE w/AC.
Yeah, I like KISS best too. I can tolerate electronics as long as they are assembly in lots of hundreds of thousands to millions by named companies with lots to lose if they cheap out. It is going with no-named cheapest supplier aftermarket part that most of the problems occur.
Thanks
SteveU.

[lessersivad]

@ vdubnut62,
Well that's good to hear that you haven't been blackballed...yet...LOL.
Thanks for the welcome.

[Crofter]

There are many recommendations for different engine breakin procedures that focus on a specific issues such as special ring composition and cylinder surface material and finish. Some will glaze unless early heavy load is applied and will then fail to seat in the rings if the window of opportunity is missed.

Whatever the ring, cylinder, and piston material it is important to get up to full operating temperature  because that expands parts to the design dimensions. Because of some stretching and distortion from higher rpm it is recommended to vary to rpm up to full governed so the piston and rings visit all of their eventual territory; dont run for long periods at diminished rpm.

Change out that first run oil after a few hours and see how much micro grit, and metal is in the base.

Mobil bob had a good article on breaking in an engine using crankcase blow by as an indicator of when to progress the loading.