GM 90 cogen project

[veggie]

Note that the GM90 is a direct injection cylinder head with different cooling and expansion characteristics than a standard IDI 6/1.
Hence the difference in valve lash settings from an IDI listeroid.

veggie

[squarebob]

I will set the valves per veggies post at .010 and .014.

Bob

[squarebob]

When it comes time to break in the engine, with only the 24V 150A alternator hooked up, what size load should should I use. The load will be thru a 24V - 3000W inverter off a couple of 12V deep cycles in series. I was thinking of using a 1500 watt heater. Will this be enough load for break in or should I go with 2 heaters? I would assume ( that always gets me in trouble!!) that I should run at the max 750 RPM for break in?

Bob

[Ronmar]

IMO, you should work it up to full load at full operating temp(better than 190F) as soon as possible.  At the least, get it above 75% load...

[veggie]

IMHO, move up in steps.
First 20 minutes at 1500 watts load. Not enough to put all the components at full stress but enough to seat the rings.
Listen for noises, then stop the engine to check the valve clearance, gasket leaks (water), and any other things that might occur on a new engine.
Then step up to 2kw -2.5kw (75% load) for a while and let all the parts settle in.

These engines are designed to run in 750 rpm mode or 900 rpm mode (depending on the flywheels and gov. spring).
Being that yours is the lower of the two, I think it would be fine to run at 750 right from the start.
If you want to be safe, back off the speed nut and run it at 600 rpm for a few minutes until you are satisfied that things are not breaking.
Then bring on some speed and load to break it in.

Pictures ? Video ?  
veggie

[vdubnut62]

When setting valve clearances, if you get them too tight, you can burn valves and seats.
All that will happen if you go a little loose is a little bit more noise.
IMHO
Ron

[squarebob]

A load of parts showed up this week:
Alternator pulley
Serpentine belt
Starter
Drive wheel
I need to finish the alternator adjusting bracket, then fab up a starter mount. No time this week as we have other plans for the weekend. Plenty of pics will be coming next week as the fabrication continues.

Bob

[squarebob]

I got some time to work on the project. The alternator mount is now complete. I also fashioned the starter setup and got the governor linkage spring switched around per the utterpower writeup. I also removed the water pump and will try the thermosiphon method of cooling. I will try to upload a you tube video of the starter setup.

Bob

[squarebob]

Here is a link to the starter in operation:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TAUXy0nWuc

[veggie]

squarebob,

Well done !
Nice setup for the alternator.

Question: What brand of starter motor did you use.?  It looks like a straight shaft instead of a spline.

Very nice. Keep the pis and vids coming !

veggie

[squarebob]

The starter is from early 60's Ford cars and trucks. NAPA part# 2449627 or Auto Zone part # DL3123  Cost is 39.99. It has a 5/8" shaft. I used a McMaster Carr bushing and drive wheel.

Bob

[veggie]

The starter is from early 60's Ford cars and trucks. NAPA part# 2449627 or Auto Zone part # DL3123  Cost is 39.99. It has a 5/8" shaft. I used a McMaster Carr bushing and drive wheel.

Bob

Thanks Bob. Looks like an ideal starter for Listeroids.
I'll check my local NAPA dealer.

veggie

[Ronmar]

Nice startup!  Looks like that motor is fully capable of doing the job.  My only concern would be that long unsupported shaft...

[squarebob]

I didn't like the drive wheel out so far either. I have modified the starter setup a bit. I now have the drive wheel as close to the starter as possible. I will get a new video and pics up soon. I have moved the engine to its final location and set it on some rubber mats.

Bob

[Carlb]

I know the starter wont get very much use and the bearings should last quite a long time but i would put pillow block bearing on the outboard side of the drive wheel for added support to the shaft.

Carl