GMC truck

[BioHazard]

Does anyone here have experience with WMO in the 6.2L diesel? I've got a couple hundred gallons of WMO waiting for a use, and I can find an old used truck with a 6.2L in it for under $1000. If my WMO is taking the place of diesel, it's worth $3.05/gallon, or, in other words, I would only need to burn about 350 gallons before the truck blows up to break even...and even then it's still worth a few hundred bucks to the scrap guy...

[Crofter]

Do a search on centrifuges here and prefiltering. Lots involved in taking out the micro grit and sludge that will either plug the filters or create excessive wear in the injection system. If you do that search you will see that it is possible but lots of problems involved.

A diesel truck for less than a grand usually will have lots of other sorry issues to sap your tranquility without trying to run it on WMO

[BioHazard]

Do a search on centrifuges here and prefiltering. Lots involved in taking out the micro grit and sludge that will either plug the filters or create excessive wear in the injection system. If you do that search you will see that it is possible but lots of problems involved.

I agree, I've done a lot of research into filtering WMO for fuel, and generally come to the conclusion that it's bad for the engine no matter what. But, I've got 4 drums of oil just taking up space in my barn, that could potentially be worth $3/gallon in usefulness, and I can always find more. I refuse to "recycle", or give away my used oil, I will find a use for it one day...if not I want to be buried with it.

When I see an old 6.2L Chevy truck on craigslist for $500-1000, it always crosses my mind....just how many gallons do I get before I ruin the engine? There's a "good running" 6.2L Suburban for sale locally, 112k on it supposedly, rusted out and ugly, but drives for $650. If it gets 18mpg, and diesel/gas both cost me about $3/gallon right now - I'd only need to burn 216 gallons of WMO, or drive 3,888 miles to make it pay for itself. Then when it blows up I'll have AAA tow it down to the Pick'n'Pull who will probably buy it for around $200...

I've read about guys running the older Ford/IH 6.9L and 7.3L diesels on 100% WMO without many issues. Certainly some damage is being done, but the savings are enourmous. Used ones are more expensive than the Chevy's though, I think the ford engine is IDI and 100% mechanical fuel system making it a better choice for WMO.

[mobile_bob]

i have no idea how the 6.2 will do, however

i do know the 6.9l ford/IH will handle 50/50 mix very well, and up to as much as 70% oil 30% diesel "if" you start and
stop on diesel, which require dual tanks.

we have an old worn out service truck that has run many a mile on mixed waste and diesel, and
we don't filter the oil at all, it comes straight out of the drain oil tanks off the other service trucks and right into the
fuel tank of the old ford, and then drive to the station to add the fuel, and let it mix bouncing down the road.

and yes the fuel filter gets plugged with some regularity, however it usually runs a few thousand miles between filters.

i have a friend who ran thousands of miles on "black" fuel, about 50/50 mix with no problems at all, save for a clogged
filter once in a while.

having said all that, i would myself, premix and prefilter to around 10 micron before i put it into a 6.9l or early 7.3l
and then i think it would probably run just fine.

i don't know enough about the 6.2l gm to know if it will tolerate such abuse or not?

if it was a ford, for a grand, my bet is it would pay for itself several times over, without issues.

bob g

[bschwartz]

my 6.2 doesn't care what I put in the tank, although I havn't run too many thousands of miles.  FYI the older ford 6.9/7.3 used basically the same injection pump as the mechanical 6.2/6.5 GM, so I wouldn't expect the reliability to be much different.

[Crofter]

I had a bad experience years ago with a "free" tank of diesel just to haul it away. Probably was bacterial slime or something but before I finally got it flushed out of my fuel tanks I had to change fuel filters twice and lost a days work over it. If it is fresh motor oil like Bob mentions, and you know it has not sat over separated water, and you know it has no anti freeze then it is more inviting. Where you are driving makes a difference too. If you have to get a tow off one of the middle lanes of an expressway it is going to use up a lot of the free dom.

I guess maybe in warm climates where they dont use road salt you can get an old truck to run. Here anything that old would be nothing but total grief unless recently installed fuel and all brake lines and tanks. Even the crimps on flex lines rust off. To get a change of ownership, the safety certification process makes it too expensive.

[RogerAS]

How 'bout parking the old truck and drive a big air core perm mag alt off one rear wheel/axle. No tires to wear out, suspension to fix, or inspections to pass. Just make sure to tie it down to a good deadman. I bet one of these trucks could idle along and make serious power. Shoot, scrap the cab and bed, shorten the frame, lose the rear end and drive a big alt off the drive line like a PTO.

Why not?

RS

[BioHazard]

If it is fresh motor oil like Bob mentions, and you know it has not sat over separated water, and you know it has no anti freeze then it is more inviting. Where you are driving makes a difference too. If you have to get a tow off one of the middle lanes of an expressway it is going to use up a lot of the free dom.

Yeah, so far I only have my own oil, so I know where it all came from. There are two different mechanic's shops on each side of my own industrial shop, so I'm thinking about making a deal with them to take away their oil. I'd only use it to drive back and forth from home to my shop, usually late at night, small town, break downs aren't a big deal. Let's just say I'm familiar with the AAA man.

Here anything that old would be nothing but total grief unless recently installed fuel and all brake lines and tanks. Even the crimps on flex lines rust off. To get a change of ownership, the safety certification process makes it too expensive.

LOL, safety certification? What's that? (he says as the shifter lever comes out in his hands) Nope, no salt around here, I recently bought a '79 Chevy and the bed is almost like new condition, just needs a new paint job. No rust. No inspectors.

[BioHazard]

Why not?

Quit putting all those dirty images in my mind! Actually last night I was looking at a late 80s Ford 6.9L cube van for $1400...looks pretty nice in the pics. I was thinking "there's totally enough space in there to attach a 50kw head to a PTO from the trans...and room for batteries...hot water storage...and I could still drive it around"......HMMMMMM.....