Pressure washing a crankcase

[mobile_bob]

a clean engine is an engine that will run longer, often times much longer
than one that has "any" crap built into it.

bob g

[mobile_bob]

oven cleaner works best if the surfaces are warm, at least that is what it says on the can
and from what i can tell the "bag and sun" method provides enough heat to allow the stuff
to do its magic.

at least it worked well for me.



bob g

[LowGear]

This certainly is a good reminder to keep it clean once you get there. 

Another one of those I have to say that if this cast of cleaners, detergents and solvents can't cut through the crud then "Don't worry, Be happy."  No? 

Of course, that still leaves the mystery of what the heck this thing went through to cause this near interchange at the molecular level?

Casey

[LowGear]

Brake Cleaner?

[Lloyd]

Break cleaner is an old standby for anything....not cooked on...and somethings that are cooked but not well done.

Oven cleaner as Bob mentioned will due in, the most baked on crude.

Also a product called Natures Orange, is a very good de-greaser...it works on a molecular level, and part of of its action is a result of it's viscosity allowing it to hydro-statically weep into the finest of surfaces.

Next up is pure gum turpentine...an excellent degreaser that has a viscosity thinner then water and also displaces water. It will, given time break through hard carbon.

If all else fails bury the casting in a damp peat-bog(or make your own bog) come back in 30 days and it will be clean.

If all  else fails build a bonfire around it keep it well stoked for about 48 hrs and it will be clean...then you must let it sit undisturbed in the ashes for a about 2 months until a nice oxidation appears, then sandblast and re mill the surfaces, that require.....in the old days a "cast iron" casting wasn't even considered until it had a cure time (at least 2 years).

Lloyd

[cgwymp]

Speaking of baked on, there's this stuff called "Dawn Power Remover."  It's sold in the grocery store in the dish detergent aisle and is intended to remove baked on food &c from pots and pans.  Turns out it's also a fantastic paint remover.  Might be worth a try on your crankcase goo....

HTH!

[Tom Reed]

I think POR15 would work great in a crankcase. After all it is designed for the environment of the rusty/greasy undercarriage of vehicles.

[LowGear]

Remember the first rule of Por15.  It uses moisture as the catalyst.  Painting directly from the can and expecting any shelf life can be very disappointing and a little costly.

Casey

[cgwymp]

Remember the first rule of Por15.  It uses moisture as the catalyst.  Painting directly from the can and expecting any shelf life can be very disappointing and a little costly.

Casey

...which is why the little cans are a good deal, even if they appear more expensive!  On thing I've done with the larger cans is use a church key on the bottom of the can and pour out what I needed, then using the POR around the hole to "glue" on a little slip of aluminum foil to seal the can back up.  The downside of doing this is that you can't stir it -- you have to shake it which they don't recommend.  Best to let the amount you decant to sit a bit for the bubbles to come out....

[vdubnut62]

Uh, Church key? Sorry, over my head like a roof! Is it one of the old bottle openers that open beer bottles on one end and punch holes in cans on the other?

El Denso

[AdeV]

Uh, Church key? Sorry, over my head like a roof! Is it one of the old bottle openers that open beer bottles on one end and punch holes in cans on the other?

El Denso

I think he means any convenient lump of metal which will later act like the ball bearing in a rattle can (that's a spray can of paint that rattles when you shake it.... (you know, auto paint (oops, outta brackets)))

[LowGear]

I started Poring 15 minutes worth of the stuff out of the factory can into my dabber can and then closing it up ASAP.  I once used some on a tractor to touch up a bit of black directly out of the factory can.  It was raining and I didn't know the moisture-catalyst relationship.  I lost about $15 worth back when the half pint cans were about $15.  (I think that's what it cost back then.) I don't buy it here in Hawaii because its just too damn humid to get the stuff stirred and poured and closed back up without very high risk.  I had never considered the coke can approach.  A dry rod or long skinny bolt could be stuck down there and mix things pretty good without exposing it to very much moisture.  Great idea.

Casey

[cgwymp]

Is it one of the old bottle openers that open beer bottles on one end and punch holes in cans on the other?

Indeed!

[vdubnut62]

Is it one of the old bottle openers that open beer bottles on one end and punch holes in cans on the other?

Indeed!

Ok great!    But the name still baffles me. I must be really really dense.
Ron

[cgwymp]

Ok great!    But the name still baffles me.
Ron

No idea.  But that's what I've always heard them called....