small, simple IDI diesel engine

[mobile_bob]

JohnF:

boy, just when i think i got the listeroid boys all wound up and ready for a good fight, you come along and pour water on me!

however you must admit you are the exception, most folks likely won't get that kind of service, because they will not avail themselves
of the info you have amassed over the years that makes those kind of long hours a reality.

chinga???

lmao

yes i like my "chinga"!!!

you know thats kinda catchy for a name ....

"Chinga"

ya, i like it, it kinda rolls right off the tongue, with a hint of gutteral finish..



sorry for the crude critique of your" leesteroids"

i do have a question though, how long do you think your engines would run without the updated plain brgs, hollow dipper,
offset idler, brass gear, and not being set up as well as i am sure you are capable of?

bob g

[TimSR2]

Lister LR1, SR1 or the marine water cooled variants. LR1 especially because it uses a pintle injector. Easy to clean.   Old Volvo marine singles....  Yanmar TF's   Most of the old work horses are IDI and use a single hole pintle injector. There's a nice old Volvo in Popeye's marine consignment store in North Van right now. 6 hp and water cooled, about 1/3 the size of a CS. Any small chinese horizontal could work, but I'm not really keen on Chinese machinery. IMHO they are only a tiny step up from the Indians in QC.

[mike90045]

Jens, I thought if speed were dropped in half, wear dropped by 3/4?

I don't know what the relationship is between wear and speed. Assuming loading on the mechanicals is the same (ie reduced horsepower for reduced RPM), it seems to make sense to talk in total revolutions. That would mean reduce the speed in half it would double the lifetime for the same number of total crankshaft rotations.
<shrug>

But that sledgehammer (cylinder firing) still happens, and that wear/stress is not going away. Maybe even worse, at lower speeds, as it fires BTC, and still has to squish it all into the head space at lower RPMs

[Jedon]

Lister LR1, SR1 or the marine water cooled variants. LR1 especially because it uses a pintle injector. Easy to clean. 

How about on my SR2? I just had to swap out a pump, hope the injectors are okay. I have two spares I need to have sent out to be serviced unless you guys think I could do it myself. Also have a couple spare pumps that need servicing.

[vdubnut62]

Some of the really old slow speed engines fired on TDC or even a couple degrees after. The piston was already moving away from the
"sledgehammer". Complete combustion is still possible due to the low RPM.
Ron

[TimSR2]

Jedon,

Those injectors will need to be sent out to a diesel injector specialist. They have 3 tiny spray holes ( ten thousands of an inch ea) out sideways.) Pop pressure needs to be set using a pop tester at 200 x atmospheric pressure. IIRC  that is 2900 psi. I have a injection specialist nearby, will report on the cost. Maybe we can get all our injectors together and have them set up. What happened to that unit pump anyway to make it leak? Did it crack?

Tim

[Jedon]

Thanks Tim, there is a shop semi-local here called Allen Diesel that was recommended to me by the guy I bought the generator from. I'll call and see what their rates are. Seems worth fixing them and the pumps since replacements are $250-$285!

I'm not sure what is wrong with the pump, the bolt holding it down was loose and the injector pipe was cracked. Fixing both those things did not help so I swapped the pump out and then it did work. I have no idea how to troubleshoot the pump. The governor does seem to slide a bit too easily?

[JohnF]

Bob;

In response to your query:

"i do have a question though, how long do you think your engines would run without the updated plain brgs, hollow dipper,
offset idler, brass gear, and not being set up as well as i am sure you are capable of?"

Honestly I just don't know.  The engines come with bronze idlers already installed and of course for my personal units I do the rest of the stuff.  I do remember, back when we were bringing in Ashwamegh's that I had a 25/2 that blew out the cam gear after 25 hours.  I have seen OEM bearings last 8-10,000 hours but they certainly could have used some help before that.  I have also seen OEM bearings that looked like Swiss cheese.....

All in all, QC is, and always will be, a major problem with the Indians.  Some "assemblers" (I refuse to call the manufacturers) do a better job than others but you can still get a lemon.  Sorta like a Pinto I guess.

I was pretty happy with the 27hp Changfa I had here (bet you didn't know THAT!) and was quite impressed, but I do know that there is a great variation in the clones.  Seems to me that we need to remember that this is a DIY area and be prepared to upgrade as necessary.  I've done a lot of work with the Listers, you have done the same with the Changfa's.  Unfortunately, some people don't seem to get that.

The "new and improved" camshaft that is being developed for the Listers will likely improve them exponentially, but someone will want it at no cost......

[mobile_bob]

JohnF:

i think what you have done with listeroids places you and your product at the top of the heap in quality.

you started out with a Jkson? iirc, which is much better in my opinion than the average indian product

you then went through it making all the necessary improvements

you were the first to get the plain brgs for the rods, and couple them up with the hollow dippers

and i am sure there are many other things that have slipped by me as well.

where willem at old style listers brags about his product, you have produced a superior product.

its just too bad more folks have not followed your lead, they likely would have far less problems in my opinion.

hats off to you my friend

bob g