Leece neville 110-555 alternator bearing.

[keith71]

Hi, I have a leece 110-555 alternator 12 volt 140 amp. Unfortunately it needs a front bearing. I cannot see what size the bearing is as I do not have it completly apart. I read the rear bearing is a 6205 series. I suspect when I get it apart I will still not be a ble to read a number off of it. I do know that the o.d on the front bearing is 62mm. But cannot measure i.d yet. I have looked and have not found bearing specs for the front bearing on this alternator. Thanks for any info you can provide. Keith

[keith71]

Dumb question? Or dead forum?

[keith71]

Was able to get some time to take apart the alternator. Rear bearing looks to be a 6305 2rsj type .

[mike90045]

Not a dumb question or a dead forum.  I didn't have an answer and didn't feel like saying " Look in the owners manual ".   I still don't have an answer.

But it's always worth posting, because not everybody checks in every 12 hours ,  someone might have one in the pile in the corner and needs a day  or 3 to dig it out and look at it.

[mobile_bob]

not sure how i completely missed the original post!  but i did...

i have long been an ardent proponent of the 110-555jho
and the earlier versions that all share the same hard parts, such as brgs

i see you found the number,  it is a common brg that should be available from any motor/alternator/generator shop

and i would recommend replacing it with a motor grade brg, not some generic will fit

also of note, i am surprised to hear you needing a front brg?  the brgs are usually very long lived, but then again the 140amp version of this family of alternators dates probably from the early 90's

just for my information, what are you using the alternator for?

bob g

[keith71]

Thank you for the reply fellas, Bob you hit it right on the head. It is from a 1990 ford L9000 truck with the cummins 10.0 liter engine. So 31 years under the hood of that beast, may require a bearing change. It was getting slightly noisy, but I think we pulled it in time before any extensive damage.                                                        

Looking to build a battery charger like everyone else does with these. Have found quite a few 24 volt regulators available for this thing.That were built by presto-lite. So may build it as that. 48 volt is what I would really like, but perhaps a bit harder to get there. The 110-555 8lha is going to be driven from a yanmar L100 china clone diesel. Supposed to put out 10hp @3600 rpm, and 7.8 hp @3000. But I would like to run it at 2750 rpm for less fuel use and longer engine life. 2750 rpm will hopefully give 6hp

I am not exactly sure in amp hours of the 24 volt bank size. And 48 volt is still up in the air, depending how easily and cheaply I can do it. 48 volts may knock this alternators output to 30 amps, maybe less. So 24 volt may work better since the 140 amp out put may drop to about 60 amps or so depending on the effiency of everything running.

It also looks like it may need slip rings as one of them is pretty scored. Do you know of a place where I can do all my "one stop shopping" for parts? I may ass well do a minor rebuild if I am already in there. Thank you, Keith

[mobile_bob]

Romaine Electric in Seattle Washington, would be my supplier of choice!
and i live in kansas.

these guys are great, you can't beat their service, expertise, quality or price.

and they ship all over the world.

as for 24 volt operation

i would strongly suggest looking at the white paper i did several years ago
if 24 volt operation and high efficiency is what you are after, this is the way to get there

if the unit was rated at 140amps at 12volt nominal, it will do 80-100amps at 24volts nominal, but only if done the way demonstrated in the white paper.

in the paper i used a balmar controller, which fwiw are quite expensive, however there are other lower cost options that could accomplish the same goals.

https://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=157.0

if you have any questions let me know

the schematic might need a bit of explanation?

bob g

[keith71]

Would using a 24 volt regulator from a 24 volt 110-555 work on a 12 volt 110-555? I did a little more digging and found that a few 8LHA type alternators came in the 24 volt rating. I am going to try and copy and paste a page from prestolite showing all the 12 and 24 volt alternators. It gives the model number for the alternator. Then I looked up a voltage regulator for one of the 24 volt models and they look the same. Maybe you can look and see if this is a good or bad idea. I did read that white paper you wrote a while back. Some of it was over my head a bit but great work and well written. I am going to read it again shortly as I am a newbie to all the different ways to wire alternators and use them for this setting.        

[keith71]

That did not come out very well. Here is a link instead.
https://www.prestolite.com/pgs_support/alt_install.php

[keith71]

I did read your white paper again. I see that the balmer regulator is superior in every way to the standard voltage regulators. The mc-624 is about $375.

[mobile_bob]

the balmar controllers are very expensive
but they are very good at what they do, and are highly regarded in the boat world (about as offgrid as one can get)

there are alternatives
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173006488667?hash=item2847fd845b:g:K74AAOSwzrxUyWLR

over the years, there have been others, xantrex offered one, amplepower, hehr, and others.
and they have come up surplus on ebay at good prices.

i have never simply added an oem 24volt regulator to the 12volt alternator
it would probably work, or be made to work in the way we need it to.

if your only interest is an alternator that charges a 24 volt battery, you can just go out and buy one.
don't expect much in the way of efficiency, and don't believe the claims, most are in the mid 50's in actual tests and can only exceed maybe 60%
in certain circumstances,  none of which can do a proper 3 step charge regime on deep cycle battery banks. they are almost universally designed to recharge
an engine starting battery.

on the other hand, if efficiency is your goal, then follow the white paper and the design.

it took years to get there, and once i got there i wondered "what the  hell took so long?"

you will also need to upgrade the bridge rectifiers, either change them out, or drill and press out the old diodes and press in new replacements.

i use non avalanche diodes with a 200piv 50amp rating, last ones i bought are about 6 bucks each and you will need 3 positive and 3 negative
my seattle supplier can also sell you a replacement bridge that already has the 200 volt diodes installed for around 60 bucks or so (4yo pricing).

if you set the alternator up as described running at around 4600rpm it will make 100amps at 28.8volts using about 3.6amps at 10volts of excitation (36 watts).
and run relatively cool well under its rated temperature, and do it all day long, with a measured efficiency of very near 80%

you will be very hard pressed to find another engine driven charger that will match those numbers.

the reason the design works are as follows

the stator being 12volt nominal has fewer windings, fewer winding results in lower IR losses and lower inductance/ lower reactance,
resulting in lower losses at higher rpms

the diode losses remain the same whether they are rectifying 12 volt or 24 volt nominal

the 555 alternators have more stator poles, and short stator stack, short stacks less copper, less losses, more poles equal more voltage for a given rpm

no other alternator has the characteristics needed to do what we need it to do, and i have tried many many over 30 years leading up to that project.
the 555 series is widely available, about a dollar an amp new with no core charge, has large ball brgs front and rear, accessible brushes, and is easy to work on.

the advantage you have with the 140amp version is it has a bi directional fan, so you can mount it however you like, and get the needed cooling. the jho series 160amp version has a directional fan so it needs to turn one way to maximize airflow.

i love the 555, does it show? 

what are your goals, what are you planning to do?

always willing to help out where i can.
bob g