Listeroid 6/1 for battery charging, what alternator?

[DirtMerchant]

I am considering using my Listeroid 6/1 to charge a small 12v battery bank (8 L16 batteries for a total of 1600ah at 12v),  I am thinking about using a Leece Neville 200amp truck type alternator and a Balmar multi stage controller, however I have no idea which model alternators can use a Balmar controller ? What RPM ? Can I run it off the flywheel or do I need a pulley setup to achieve proper RPM?

[LincTex]

I'm surprised no one has answered this? I am planning to do the same thing.

I don't think it matters, really - - as long as you know how to get the output of the Balmar to the brushes in the alternator. You could use almost any alternator.

That is how the Balmar controller works: by controlling the field strength of the rotor (through the two brushes and copper slip rings)

[mobile_bob]

just kickin in my 2cents worth

the flywheel on a typical listeroid is what?  ~24inches in diameter?

lets assume so just for simplicity of calculations

you can get a 3 inch pulley for the leece neville (it will also fit all large frame alternators except the ford blue back units)

so you would have about an 8:1 step up in rpm, so

at 600rpm at the engine you would be running about 4800 at the alternator, more or less, which puts you in a good spot for power production and cooling for the alternator.

i think you would be fine with what you have in mind.

fwiw those leece neville alternators that use the 2x4 inch regulator (roughly measured) there is a plate having two screw studs that you use in place of the oem regulator, you attach the balmar to those posts to get connected to the brushes (field).

if you are thinking of using the leece neville 110-555jho or other versions, then you will have to remove the oem regulator and then will find the two male spade connectors to get connected to the brushes. you will be removing the regulator.  you can tape off the regulator leads and you can fit your balmar field wires through the rubber insulator and remount to keep the dust out if you like, or
you can go to an alternator shop and ask for a blown regulator to scrap the innards out of to use as a cover and fit it with two screw stud posts i you like,  this is what i have done on my units.

one last thought,  even though you are thinking of using a 200 amp unit, i would derate to something on the order of maybe 120amps max for heavy charging over long periods of time.  remember these alternators were designed to recharge starting batteries not deep cycle large amp hour banks.  if you get one of those laser thermometers from harbor freight (less than 40 bucks)
you can check the stator temperature and maybe get a bit more output.  the leece nevilles with the thicker stator cores don't shed the heat nearly as well as the 110-555jho in my experience.  the 110-555 in my testing can put out 120amps pretty much all day without issue and they are rated at 160amps.

there are many other reasons why i would recommend the 555, and unless you already have either bought or have on hand the 200amp unit, i would suggest you take a good look at the 555.  most especially if you think that down the road you might want to go up to either 24 or 48 volt battery charging.

bob g

[mobile_bob]

one more thought

whatever alternator you go with, you might consider getting the two temp sensors for the balmar.

one monitors the battery temperature, connect it to one of the negative posts on a battery in the middle of the stack.
the other attaches to the alternator to monitor the stator temperature.

using both allows the balmar to monitor the temps and taper back the charge rate should the battery  or alternator gets hot.

in my opinion they are worth the money for a serious system, moreso if you are doing heavy long term charging in hot climates or
planning on unattended operation.

fwiw
bob g