Portable starting, cooling, and fuel module

[veggie]

Just a small project I thought I'd post on the board...
For some time now I had an idea for a portable module that I could move from engine to engine.
Isolation valves and quick-connect couplings would allow me to move the unit between engines with minimal spillage.
The module would have a starting battery (for my Changfa), a radiator/circ pump system, and a remote fuel tank.
The unit runs on 120v power from the wall or the ST5 head. It can also run on 12vdc from the battery.
Rather than a long explanation, I thought I would post a video of the unit.
The one missing item is the remote fuel tank which will mount on the empty ledge below the coolant reservoir.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbE7FPzlMTQ

veggie

[Henry W]

Very nice!!

A very creative idea. What type of radiator are you using? I like the simple thermostat switch also. What quick disconnects are you using and what size.

Henry

[veggie]

Very nice!!

A very creative idea. What type of radiator are you using? I like the simple thermostat switch also. What quick disconnects are you using and what size.

Henry

Thanks Henry,
- Radiator is an 18,000 BTU oil cooler from an old air compressor system. Took it from the garbage at work.
- Quick-connects are the standard Cam-loc connectors. I checked with the mfr. and the rubber gaskets are good to 220 f.
- The whole cooling system is done in 3/4" pipe and hose.

veggie

[mobile_bob]

keep an eye on the cam lock quick connectors and use a zip tie to keep the cams locked
over time the rubber compresses on the seals and they can start to seep a bit, and/or the lock levers can
release if not tended by a piece of safety wire or zip tie.

i use them exclusively on all our oil recovery and delivery equipment, and i would suggest using the aluminum
ones as opposed to the plastic ones, they might even make steel and brass ones i am not sure.

sure nice to work with though

bob g

[veggie]

keep an eye on the cam lock quick connectors and use a zip tie to keep the cams locked
over time the rubber compresses on the seals and they can start to seep a bit, and/or the lock levers can
release if not tended by a piece of safety wire or zip tie.

i use them exclusively on all our oil recovery and delivery equipment, and i would suggest using the aluminum
ones as opposed to the plastic ones, they might even make steel and brass ones i am not sure.

sure nice to work with though

bob g

Hi Bob,

The units I used are the aluminum ones.
It's hard to see in the video but the levers have safety clevis pins which lock them into the closed position.
I will keep an eye on the seals.

thanks,
veggie

[mobile_bob]

Veggie:

you might check on replacing the seals with orings if you have problems with leakage

i have done that on my oil recovery system and they seem to retain there ability to seal longer
without shrinking or flattening out.

there are also all sorts of oring compounds for the different stuff you are likely to run, such as fuel, oil, antifreeze

i really like the cam lock connectors, and use both aluminum and plastic, although i prefer the aluminum ones myself
but can't always get them when i need them and have to settle for plastic.

nice to see someone else using them

bob g

[Lloyd]

Veggie,

you're an enganier..

cool

Lloyd