Miller Pipe Pro - Kubota D1005 - Central Georgia Generator Rework Project

[pdeal]

Another update. I got the generator in and bolted up. I thought bolted for good then I read the directions- "clean the grease/oil off the flywheel and disk with acetone" or something like that. I sprayed it down with some no rust stuff, sort-of a cosomolene, so my nice new flywheel wouldn't rust. Got my fingers nimbled back up to get the bolts back out of the flywheel, pulled it apart and cleaned it.

Anyway, now it's all back together. I did a little test run yesterday with about 4500 watts. voltage regulates very well. The governor seems like it's doing ok. It did drop a few hz about 60 rpm I guess. Seems not too bad for about half load.

Now I'm trying to get the rest of the electrical stuff put back together. The welder had a 50amp 250v 4 prong plug and two 120v duplex recepatacles. I plan to reuse these. The 12v wiring is going to need some bit revamping since some the safety cutouts went through the welder control box which isn't there anymore.

[Henry W]

Hi pdeal, sounds like you've been busy.
I remember that I had to redo the flywheel on my D1005 setup twice before I got it right. First time I used locktite. Then I found out the bolts were supposed to be dipped in engine oil and then torqued. Once I had it assembled I found out the bolts are only supposed to be used once. So, I ordered new flywheel to crank bolts and made sure it was done right. Those were some expensive bolts.

The governor's always seemed to be good on all the Kubota engines I've worked on.

My understanding about flywheel cleanliness is where it mounts to the crank. It needs to be absolutely clean. You did right by taking it apart and cleaning it.

Looking forward reading more.

Great project!

[pdeal]

Sorry for the big delay. I got busy with other things this summer. Also, it was very humid and rainy so not much motivation to mess with this under those conditions. I have it pretty much done.

I had to disassemble it a few times to get the flywheel and generator head all degreased and torqued as they should be. After getting it all back together the next step was some body work on the welder enclosure to get the fuel tank in. This CGG generator head and SAE 5 bell housing are wider than the original Miller welder generator head. As a result there wasn't enough room to fit the fuel tank (about 10 gal) where it used to sit beside the generator. After lots of head scratching I figured out I could do some cutting and widen the thing to one side by 2". I had some 2x2x1/8" angle laying around and some 1/8"x2 flat stock. With some cutting and welding I now have it all fitting pretty well.

I also got all the wiring tweaked so that the overtemp and oil pressure switches will shut the engine down. I plasma cut out the part of the panel that had the welder controls and made a panel to install a few meters. I bought a chicom v,a,hz meter on ebay. I meant to buy two but figured I'd look it over and test before buying the second. Now I can't find them. I want a meter for both L1-N and L2-N. I wound up buying another that's close. It hasn't come yet. I also want to add another plug. It has a 50a, 240v plut, and two 20a, 120v plugs. I want to add a 20a, 240v plug and a breaker for it. Anyway, that's what the rusted panel you see in the photo is about.

Also, have a little more rain proofing to do and patch all the holes so no varmints can get in.

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[pdeal]

Right Side

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[pdeal]

And put together.

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[Henry W]

Pdeal, nice job!
Document the load tests. I'm very interested in seeing what it can do.

I understand about the weather. Hot humid weather is hard on me. It's cooling down here and I'm loving it.

Take care and be safe,
Henry

[pdeal]

I hooked it up to the house and put some loads on it today. It seems to be about 7-7.5kw max. I couldn't get a great read on it. I was switching between the clothes dryer, an electric heater, and some space heaters. Anyway, at about 30-32amps per leg was the max. Past that it got down below 57 or so hz and the voltage dropped off quite a bit.

I do see D1005 engine generators on the net that are rated anywhere from 7kw to 9kw. I bet the 9kw is a little optimistic. I couldn't find it today but I have seen in the past a kubota spec that specified the  d1005 as being rated about 8kw.

I suppose I could tweak the governor up just a little. It's at 62hz unloaded now.

The chicom panel meter I installed on L1-N is pretty accurate. It matches my Amprobe clamp meter very well. I did find the guy on ebay I bought the first one from and ordered another for L2-N

[Henry W]

7kw is what I was thinking it would put out. That was exactly what my build was set up to max out at.
A 30amp double pole breaker would be the max.

Word of caution:
Try not to go below 58 Hz or over 62 Hz.
Be careful when doing load tests. If the engine bogg's down too much under a 30 amp load, install  a 25 amp double pole breaker. A friend purchased a genset like ours and his D1005 engine bogged down. To play it safe we installed a 25 amp breaker and he was fine after that. It probably was the difference in efficiency of the generator head.

Done many load tests and 6000 watt continuous is about right.

[pdeal]

That's good advise! I will look for a breaker. Currently it has a 50 amp breaker.

I received the second meter today. I want to add a 20amp 240v outlet to it as well. Some things have that plug and it would be a good thing to add.

An interesting thing about this is that the engine actually as written on it that it's a 3600 rpm engine. I had no trouble adjusting the governor down to 1800 and it seems to do pretty well at regulating the speed.

I looked at some parts diagrams for these engines to see if there are different governors for different speeds. I couldn't find anything.

Anyway, I think it will be a useful thing for the future.

[RJ]

Your output sounds about right, I have a d905 attached to a 6.5kw pancake head. I can pull about 6kw off it, reality is overkill though I hardly ever use that much power.

Nice build, good work !