Remote radiator for Changa style engines

[ToddT]

Years ago, George at Utterpower used to sell a plate to go onto the engine with a thermostat and supply/return ports for the coolant. It also had a port for a thermometer. I read on his site that he doesn't offer those anymore. Anybody know another source for a "radiator delete" plate?

I have an S195/8kw and an S1100/12kw. Preparing for cogen on both the exhaust and coolant heat.

Thanks in advance,

Todd

[playdiesel]

Outside of finding an unused one from a member that is strictly a D-I-Y project now as far as I know? An option would be to take the dimensions (or hopper) to a machine shop and have it made but the bill might frighten you. I made mine but it does take some basic(to me?) tools. Cut 1/2" plate to size, mark and drill for hold down bolts, mark drill and tap for 3/4" pipe nipples. Temp probe for thermometer is another hole and tap to size, make gasket and go.  Temp sender could cause a slight problem depending on what thread yours uses? There are online places that will sell you the steel cut to size if that is a problem.  If you dont have pipe taps a welder will install the nipples also. No taps or welder? Pipe tap sets are availible at H-F that are good enough to get you through the job and cheap.

As for operation I have found no need for a thermostat in mine. Maybe just lucky but the engine warms up and self regulates to a nice operating temp just fine without one. You do need to drop the cool water return below the level of the hot water outlet just a bit and it works much better, again  mine did at least.

[Tom Reed]

I need the same for my s195 too. Playdiesel, did you use the 1/2" plate because it was necessary, or is that just what you had on hand. I'm thinking 1/4" plate would be adequate. What are your thoughts?

[ToddT]

Thanks for the tips! Are you doing a simple hopper cooling system? If so, how many gallons?

[Ronmar]

1/4" should be plenty. If you are going to run unpressurized, you could go much thinner IMO.  My Chang-chai S1100A2 parts kit has a "marine conversion kit" included in it.  It consists of a fairly thin stamped sheetmetal plate with 4 bolt holes and a gasket.  It is raised in the middle(looks like a squared upside down bowl) and has two larger holes for the  two plastic pass-thru fittings.  One fitting is longer than the other, to reach farther down into the coolant chamber...   I havn't measured it, but it is real thin...

[playdiesel]

Actually I made two of them. First one was 1/4" and I had my troubles keeping it sealed between the widely spaced holes (1115 here) It didnt realy leak a lot but I have cats and a dog running around here and run antifreeze. I didnt have any 3/8" plate around but had the 1/2" under the welding bench. 1/2" also gives a lot more pearch for the nipple theads. Everything is now sealed tight.  My system is unpressurized except for the head created by the radiator being mounted 3' above the engine.

[veggie]

When I built mine, the 3/8" plate kept warping during the weld process.
I think 1/2" plate is better.

veggie

[LincTex]

Thicker plate shouldn't really be necessary... you should just need two pieces of angle iron on top of the thinner plate, one on each side that runs the longest length. Then you also have two nice pieces of angle iron to add braces, etc to.