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Need offset Idler bolt

Started by Randybee1, May 13, 2010, 06:16:44 AM

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captndiet

XYZER,

Check your PM and e-mail.

Will take a bolt now.

Jeff

mike90045

Got the bolt, but after I got back from visiting my engine.  I have to spend more time inside the engine, every time I pick up a part, I'm amazed at how big and beefy they are.  I'll have to install it on my July/Sept visit, when I should be able to anchor it down, and tighten up the alternator belt, and finally put it to work.

Question - is there enough splash oil, to get to the upper rod/wrist pin bearing ?  i just don't see how oil gets up there, bounces off the hot piston, and into the bearing.  And no way to pre-lube it either.

Crofter

Have not heard of piston pin problems. Oil slung aloft by the big end and dipper would be overtaken by the piston on its way down. Also oil scraped off the cylinder walls by the rings should be available to the outer end of the pin. Big grooves in the rod bushing store lots of oil.
Frank


10-1 Jkson / ST-5

mike90045

Quote from: Crofter on June 21, 2010, 11:15:44 AM
.....Also oil scraped off the cylinder walls by the rings should be available to the outer end of the pin. Big grooves in the rod bushing store lots of oil.
Ah....that's where it must get the bulk of it.

LincTex

XYZER no longer makes the bolts.

Does anyone else have a source?

I have a machinist friend that can make them if we order enough...
Metro 6-1 from Sam Crosby, 2007
Chang Chai 1110 - 18 HP

luv2weld

LincTex,

add me to your list for 3, please.

Ralph
6/1 with 5 kw ST       
8/1 with 7.5kw ST
28/2 with 24kw ST

I wouldn't need to manage my anger if people would learn to manage their stupidity!!

The best way to "kill time" is to work it to death!

quinnf

#21
Another way to skin that cat is to simply machine an eccentric bushing to offset your existing idler bolt.  You'll first have to turn down the region of the pin that protrudes through the crankcase to the diameter of the threaded portion.  It's about 0.050" if I remember correctly.  Then make a series of brass bushings drilled off center to slip over the pin.  I did that on a friend's mill a while ago.  Took a piece of brass round, turned it down so that its OD was a tight fit in the hole that the idler pin goes through, then drilled it off-center on the mill, holding it on the table using a 3-jaw lathe chuck.  Drilled the first one 0.010" off, the next 0.020" . . . and the last one 0.050" off center.  At that point the wall thickness of the bushing became too skinny to hold effectively.  As it turned out the 0.030" one was too tight, so I used the 0.020" offset bushing.  Installed it and turned the engine over by hand and listened to the silence.  The lack of clack-clack was music to my ears.  Engine is now running the way it should have in the first place. 

If you can't get a new pin, talk to your machinist friend and just bush your existing pin.  Here's a pic my friend took. 

Quinn





markste


quinnf

This is a DIY solution to the problem.  You need a lathe and either a drill press or a vertical mill to make one.  Nobody is manufacturing them any longer.

Quinn