Designing semi-portable power station (inverter/generator)

[mobile_bob]

fwiw, and recognizing i am late to the party...

the xantrex controllers i would bet are made for xantrex by balmar
the sterling controllers for about 1/4 of the cost of a balmar are probably more than adequate for your project.

i would figure on a separate starting battery, later when you step up to 24 or 48volt operation you will need a separate/isolated 12volt source
to power the regulator and alternator field anyway, so might as well prepare for it now and have the starter loads taken off the inverter battery up front.

bob g

[XYZER]

Does someone have a source for the sterling controllers?

[artificer]

mobile_bob posted a link for the Sterling in 2010, and that's where I heard of them.  (Thanks Bob)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sterling-ProReg-B-Marine-12-Volt-Advanced-Regulator-/320493571753?hash=item4a9ee7cea9&item=320493571753&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr

$110/$22Shipping for the controller on 2Apr2012 for the Pro reg B.  

Michael

Edit:  ...and now I see the 200 amp 24V rating is only if you use the original regulator as well.  Standalone for the reg B is only 90amps.  If I have to go with the regD for $190, I'll go with the Xantrex instead for $182 from http://www.ecodirect.com/Xantrex-Alternator-Regulator-p/xantrex-ar.htm

[artificer]

Well, I did my taxes, so its time to spend some money.  I ordered a Carroll Stream 6.5hp gas engine with electric start.  This is a Honda GX200 clone.  The Predator 212cc I was going to use was $145, until I ordered.  Now I see them for $120.  $80 for the electric start isn't as good as the $55 I thought it was going to be.  Oh, well... it makes my life easier.  Built in alternator, even if its small, so no fuel hog of a starter/generator.

Next, I ordered an Arduino and servo shield.   The shield has screw terminals for the servos, so its convenient.  It will as drive stepper motors or DC motors.  Kind of nice for $20.  I can use the motor drivers to contol relays for starting, fuel pump, or whatever.  I added a prototype shield as well.  The sensors I need get connected to this, I believe.  (rpm, current, battery voltage, engine temp, fuel level, oil level sensor) 

I also ordered a couple of servos to use with the Arduino/shield.  One for throttle control, and the other for choke. At something like 8lbs of pull, they should be more than strong enough.  Metal gearing to last, hopefully.  The addition of a simple IC to detect temperature should help make the decision to choke/no choke when starting.

I plan on getting the 110-555JHO alternator and Sterling regulator eventually.  I'm going to start with the 130 amp G3 alternator from my F250.  I'll design in the mounting pivot or pads for the Leece Neville alternator, since I'll eventually be getting one.  The main question on that is the J mount, or the pad mount version.  The G3 uses a pad mount, but its a different size.

I found some NOS UPS batteries to use for the first run.  Great price, even if they don't hold a charge.  (more for scrap than I paid)  Once again, I'll design for the final AGM battery, with provisions for both the set of UPS batteries as well as the GC2's.

I'm interested in seeing how long it takes to program the controller.  The electronics seem to be mostly plug and play, if you use the shields.  With the built in 3amp alternator on the engine, I won't even have to have an rpm sensor.  Just pull off a signal before the rectifier to sense the speed of the engine.  Maybe run it through an opto isolator to protect the board, but thats a drop in chip.  I hope the Arduino isn't too busy with everything:  rpm/current/voltage/temp/fuel level sensors and throttle/choke/fan/pump

If I have extra pins/controls, I might connect in the remote start on my Onan RV generator for very high loads.

Now to get started on building it.

Michael