Micro CoGen.

keith71, what parts are you looking for if you don't mind me asking? I have basically every parts stocked for the changfa R165.  The best site to order parts for the R170 is yoycart.com A matter of fact all parts for all series of these water cooled and air-cooled diesels parts can be found on this site. I have a Full list of saved buyers and parts on a list in my account with this website, i spent days looking up every part for the r170 and r165 because they have so many product's it can be almost impossible to input the correct keyword in the search bar. Basically you may see irrelevant items only. I made about 10 orders now and have every part, a box full of parts for the r165 and r170 except crankshaft and camshaft only because i haven't ordered them yet. i'll send photos of these parts, so you have an idea  on the product's they sell.  it's actually crazy, if you buy 1 head gasket, its about 1.20 usd, if you buy 10 head gaskets i think its only $4 usd!? 40 cents a piece, and shipping is $4 usd. Injectors and injector pumps are average $12 usd a piece fully assembled ready to go! A fresh cylinder head with valves for the r170 are $16 usd, shipping will be about $50 -+ since its a heavy thing but a wicked deal still! A pack of piston rings go for $2usd each if you order 1o packs, so $20! 

I wonder if there's a way I can supply parts for anyone and everyone? I will be glad to do that, cheap prices too,  maybe ebay? problem, I cant stock every part myself but i do know a source for all the water-cooled and air-cooled 2hp to the biggest they get .... im guessing at 33hp?! I am an ebay seller, I think i may have a legit plan if folks are interested! 

Update! It's Alive! Well not quite lol, but it's fully reassembled! well here's a little Rant of excitement here for you all, i've had this thing for 10 years! And what it has like 2500 hours haha?   Long story short it was more work this time around then the first experience rebuilding this engine! I will post photos along with details on this recent rebuild asap! Hopefully by tomorrow! Every fastener replaced with high grade stainless steel, new alternator bracket, valve work involving seat grinding because I made a mistake on the frist rebuild! Resurfaced head and block, new cylinder sleeve, rings, valves, bearings, paint. Redesigned crank case vent using a tire air valve, a redesigned "loop fuel return system" using double banjo bolts will provide a "bleed free" fuel system. 

Hrmmmm, I took one of those pump off the boat due to the space they consume and that I installed a reversible oil pump that I can fit the tube over my primary Yanmar's dipstick tube to suck out all the oil. I wanted to make a manifold that is hooked up to the oil pan drain hole on the primary and then also over on the genset engine.

I guess i could still rig up a valve system that goes to a wand like thing that fits inside the Kubota's dipstick hole to suck out the oil. I could have it live next to the genset so that when i'm in the "hole", i could just pop the dipstick, crack the oil fill cap, crawl out, set the valve to the genset, stick my empty oil jug on the outlet hose and flip the switch to suck out, then I can pull the oil screen and clean it off while I'm in the "hole" and then fill her up and be done.

I appreciate you calling this out Tom, I hadn't really re-thought about this vac pump and making it work. This seems like a easy solution to implement.

I was thinking since the bolt is a banjo bolt, I'm going to see if i can find a banjo fitting that fits perfectly, but i might spend more time searching than implementing your Iteam Tom.

Even easier, have you looked at oil extractors? I bought one to change the oil in my diesel Audi and now use it on almost everything. Example https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24937-Pneumatic-Manual-Extractor/dp/B07N7YV5GN/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=oil%2Bextractor%2Bpump%2Bfor%2Bboats&pd_rd_i=B07N7YV5GN&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-4-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM

Hey all,

I have a EA300(might be a EL) that drives a alternator for power generation onboard my boat.

I'm sick of doing oil changes by pulling the plug/screen out and having to mop up the oil afterwards due to the clearance below the engine. It's a VERY messy job and would absolutely love to help keep things tidier and the engine happier by adding some sort of valve so i can add a drain pipe. Would love to add something like a EZ-Drain or something similar.

Has anyone done this? does anyone have ideas on how this could be done?

Thanks!

OK, so, my guess in the last post was actually right. This alternator is designed to produce around 12-15V, and the electronics package contains a Boost Converter which pushes which up to 50+ to charge the battery.

I was confused by the lack of large inductances necessary for this type of converter, but someone on another forum pointed out that it's using the motor coils (stator) themselves as the inductance. I didn't know you could do this.

Once you get this, everything makes sense. The five phases come into five daughterboards which each contain a FET bridge (two large FETs bonded directly to the substrate) with one of the FETs connected directly to Ground via a precision shunt / current measuring component. The idea is to short the winding directly to ground initially in the AC cycle, let the current start to build up in the inductor/coil, and then turn the FET off; the resulting flyback voltage provides the higher output. This is being done under control of the central processing module (see the photo above). And this in turn responds to CanBus commands on the four-pin control interface.

Honestly hacking CanBus commands is beyond me and I'm after a simpler solution in any event, although this is a pretty impressive and clever machine. So I'm going to try rewiring the stator coils arrangement and seeing if I can get more voltage out of it that way, and just leave the electronics out of it. Conceivably, I could build my own boost converter - they can be extremely efficient - but that's Plan-B for now.

Ah, this is a grid tie inverter? Connected to batteries? A current limiter would have to switch the dc on and off, this would make crappy dc which might burn the inverter. I'm still not sure what your goal is here.

QuoteUsually the current limiting is done on the load on the inverter, not the supply to it. Can you tell more about what your trying to do?

This class of small Chinese inverters are notorious for drawing unlimited amperage and burning up.
Their input is determined by the size of the PV array feeding it.
As an example:
The inverter can accept 20 - 38 vdc and is rated at 1000 watts.
A 35 volt 900 watt solar PV array puts out a MAX of 30 amps and 900 watts when under load and pulled down to 30 volts.
There is zero chance of killing the inverter because the panels can never produce enough to overpower it.

However if you connect the inverter to a 24 vdc, 400 amp battery bank, the inverter runs right up to full input amps and runs so hot that it cooks the Mosfets. If the battery bank output (inverter supply) was limited to 800 watts just like a PV array, the unit would last longer.
That's what I'm trying to achieve.

Usually the current limiting is done on the load on the inverter, not the supply to it. Can you tell more about what your trying to do?

Can anyone help me with a recommendation for a device that can limit DC current from a battery bank to a device?
In this case the 24 volt battery bank is connected to a 1000 watt grid tie inverter.
When connected, the inverter immediately draws the full 1000 rated watts and runs at it's maximum capacity (and heat) with no restrictions for longer life or safety.
My goal is to restrict the supply current to 800 watts (33.3 amps) by installing some device between the battery and the inverter.
For low wattage circuits a light bulb can sometimes suffice, but for 800 watts, I have no idea what would work.

If a big resistor is a possible solution, I need some help sizing it.

Any recommendations or instruction ?

Thanks