Bob: Thanks for your time and the response.
The battery is 12x2V cells (Raylite M-Solar series - just a shade under 600kg total weight) and the proprietary interconnects between the cells have a waterproof seal that helps to inhibit corrosion of the terminal and the connector. I can replace one of them with something more accessible, but would prefer not to.
I understand your point about taking a 12V field current from the centre tap of the battery bank versus a sense voltage. My thinking was to use 24V for the field to avoid taking too much current from the small engine's electrical system in case it couldn't cope; in essence, everything would operate at 24V, but with an alternator that has 12V written on the side. Is there anything stopping me from exciting the field with 24V?
I purchased the battery (as a replacement to the pre-existing battery that had died) with the intent of very shallow daily discharge to allow for several days without solar/wind input. Assuming a fully charged battery, we tend to see SOC drop to 90-93% before the sun comes up most of the time. Our major power draw is an excessive number of fridge compressors. In the majority of cases, my solar/wind system brings the battery through a 4-stage charge to float each day. But, in the depths of winter there is an occasional need to ensure absorb and equalise charging happens. I've got too much invested in the battery bank to mistreat it and the current petrol-based charger is simply inappropriate.
The battery is 12x2V cells (Raylite M-Solar series - just a shade under 600kg total weight) and the proprietary interconnects between the cells have a waterproof seal that helps to inhibit corrosion of the terminal and the connector. I can replace one of them with something more accessible, but would prefer not to.
I understand your point about taking a 12V field current from the centre tap of the battery bank versus a sense voltage. My thinking was to use 24V for the field to avoid taking too much current from the small engine's electrical system in case it couldn't cope; in essence, everything would operate at 24V, but with an alternator that has 12V written on the side. Is there anything stopping me from exciting the field with 24V?
I purchased the battery (as a replacement to the pre-existing battery that had died) with the intent of very shallow daily discharge to allow for several days without solar/wind input. Assuming a fully charged battery, we tend to see SOC drop to 90-93% before the sun comes up most of the time. Our major power draw is an excessive number of fridge compressors. In the majority of cases, my solar/wind system brings the battery through a 4-stage charge to float each day. But, in the depths of winter there is an occasional need to ensure absorb and equalise charging happens. I've got too much invested in the battery bank to mistreat it and the current petrol-based charger is simply inappropriate.