Micro CoGen.

Thanks! Just what I was looking for but just couldn't find!

Hello. I am finishing up my Yanmar project and have a ? on what size wire to run from the gen head to my circuit breaker and then on to my service disconnect. The genset will run 6000 watts well, it would probably run 7000 but would work it a little. What gauge wire should I use? I would like to use stranded instead of solid. my ST head is wired for 240V. Is there a chart somewhere that lists wire gauges and amperage limitations based on length, etc..?
Thanks!
Ben

Quote from: cohippy on March 26, 2013, 10:31:00 AM
i looked at those murphy gauges i really like them never knew a gauge with adjustable limit switches existed....that would fix both issues for temp and psi a second temp gauge would fix the issue of delayed rev up to 1800rpm. my question is what is the failure rate on these gauges? it says they are self cleaning contacts but idk i would think i would just want these to drive a relay contact, and not a solenoid load.

We've used these on a few tractors and stationary engines running irrigation pumps and never had a problem. The oil pressure gauge always kept the fuel solenoid from opening until you pushed the bypass switch when starting. Never had a problem with the contacts not making contact. The gauges are sealed so as long as moisture doesn't get into them, I don't think the contacts would ever go bad. Maybe if you put too much of a load through them, it could cause problems, but if just driving a relay contact I would think you would be fine.
just my 2 cents...

Thanks! Thats just what I was looking for!
Ben

anyone??

Does anyone know of a link to a Gates radiator hose catalog with pictures of the molded hoses?
Thanks!
Ben

Quote from: Tom on March 05, 2013, 02:18:29 PM
I understand your logic about using the lower hose. But there is a reason manufacturers to it the way they do. Lets imagine the scenario that the engine is warmed up and running a light load, then all of a sudden a big load comes on and the engine is now working at max hp. A slug of hot water will flow out of the engine, through the radiator and eventually the temp will raised enough that the fan kicks on. Now you've got a radiator full of hot water that will be going into the engine without being cooled and the engine might over heat. With the sensor in the top hose the fan will kick on and cool the hot water as it comes into the radiator. This will actually supply a more steady inlet temp to the motor.

If you want to minimize cycling set the fan to come on at 210 deg and size the fan to be just big enough to do the job at full load max ambient temp.

Tom, thanks for the explanation. That makes perfect sense. I had never thought of it that way. Now for my next question... Since the top radiator hose would be best for the sensor, my engine has two plugs that I could screw a sensor in. These plugs are just before the thermostat. Would this location work or should the sensor be after the thermostat?

Thanks for all the replies guys! I see that the general consensus is to have the sensor in the top hose. You guys probably have more experience in this than me, but, I do want to explain why I was thinking it should be in the lower hose. I was thinking that if it is in the bottom of the hose and the radiator is doing its job, then the fan wouldn't kick on. But, if it was in the top hose, it could cause the fan to kick on as the thermostat, if working properly, would keep the coolant very close to the fan on temp even though the radiator is cooling the coolant enough by the time it enters the lower hose. I would think that this would cause the fan to run more than it is needed and also cause peaks and drops in the engine coolant temp rather than a constant temperature. I would think that this would be harder on engine gaskets and such.  I have operated a Kubota RTV utility vehicle that has a small 3 cylinder Kubota diesel in it that has an electric fan. Its sensor is in the top of the thermostat housing and I've noticed that the temperature varies quite a bit from the time the fan kicks on and until it kicks off. I was thinking that if the sensor was in the lower hose it would eliminate this temperature variance? Maybe it would not?....Whats your guys opinions on that? The radiator I have is a 3row radiator for a Honda Civic. I see that the one surplus center is selling with their 2TNV-70's is only a 1 row. I think I should have plenty of radiator. Here is the link to the fan I have..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-DEL-SOL-3-ROW-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-12-FAN-CAP-/380363062386?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588f67bc72&vxp=mtr

Thanks!
Ben

Hello! I've finally got back to working on my Yanmar generator project. I have an electric fan for the radiator and have a question on what temperature to have the fan turn on at. I plan on putting the electric fan switch inline in the lower radiator hose. I think my thermostat is 190 degrees, "don't quote me on that because I'm not at the shop right now." I was thinking that the fan should switch on at a lower temp than the thremostat as the sensor is in the lower radiator hose. How much lower should it be set at?

Thanks!
Ben

Sounds good thanks!
Ben

Hello everyone! I need some advice on a mixing valve in a domestic water system. Here is how my system is set up. I have a wood/coal furnace with a hot water coil that thermosiphons into a 50 gallon storage tank. This usually supplies enough hot water when its cold, but on a warmer day it gets behind. We then have a tankless hot water heater we can switch over too on the warmer days or when the stove is not going. What I was thinking of doing is installing a mixing thermostatic mixing valve between the storage tank heated by the stove and the tankless hot water heater. This way on a warmer day or a day when the stove is not going, I don't have to swich valves. I need to cool/temper the water that goes into the tankless as it can not have incoming water over 100 degrees. Do you think this will work? Anyone have any recommendations on what brand/model of mixing valve to buy?

Thanks!
Ben

Anyone have any experience with this engine?

Hello! I am looking for any information for a Mitsubishi K4E diesel engine. If you know where to find an owners or service manual, it would be greatly appreciated. I have searched and searched with no luck.

Thanks!
Ben

Hello guys. Sorry for not posting any more updates on my build. I actually haven't had time to work on it for some time now. Things will slow down here in another 2 or 3 weeks and I'll get my project wrapped up. I'll be sure to post pictures as I build.

We have used their fence stretchers for years. I never knew they made oil cans and all the other stuff. I also see that you can buy kits to rebuild the fence stretchers. springs, wire guides ect.. Nice to see a company that actually builds something that can be rebuilt or fixed instead of some of this throwaway junk you buy nowdays.