Micro CoGen.

Crofter,
I already have my parts for a second unit, but I'd be happy to help you with your parts list.  Judging by your location you probably want to try to get everything at one place for economy of shipping.  I used Mouser and Digi-key for all except the radio shack board.  One of the reasons I went with the generic board was I could substitute parts with no interference problems since there is lots of room.  After I installed IRGB14C40LPBF for Q1 it has worked fine, although I continue to attempt improvements in power factor, etc.  Here is a picture of my board layout, maybe it will help.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c8acql5jBnBSxEmx-hajMg?authkey=Gv1sRgCN-YqvmH1oi44QE&feat=directlink

It's a rewarding project.

RH

BruceM,
I think I spent just under 50 bucks for parts to build your regulator.  I am going to build another for a second generator and that will double as a spare.
RH

oiler,
Have you or can you view your power with an Oscope?  It would be interesting to see it.
RH

Wizard,
I refer you to Alternators and Generators>ST and STC Generators>STC-10 AVR and Capacitors.  It was that voltage regulator problem that got me interested in an oscilloscope.  If you still have questions, let me know.
RH   

Here's some oscope pictures of my power produced with the regulator.  The first 2 are without any capacitor on line.  In the reduced view you can see the spikes on each peak.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cBKA2jvOjRp_NXBwLLqA8A?authkey=Gv1sRgCOG40tbTq4KcAw&feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8c1e8kH0lCQh0jXZ0f1mFQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCOG40tbTq4KcAw&feat=directlink

The next 2 are with the 50 uf capacitor on line.  The inverter/charger would accept this.  I plan to do more fine tuning, if possible, later.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/y_CW2_uBSHXXEaJEnWBNxA?authkey=Gv1sRgCOG40tbTq4KcAw&feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FVxDraw8p3lNHD9ZazRMcw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOG40tbTq4KcAw&feat=directlink

Also, since the oscope is a new toy for me, I had to look at some other things.  Here is what my inverter power looks like.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MnmY7M9MLA9OlbOKL0ymnw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOG40tbTq4KcAw&feat=directlink

I've learned a lot and been having great fun doing it.  Thanks again to all who contributed.

73, RH

As with others, I have desired to reduce flicker with my st-5/6-1, and I never could get more than about 113 volts at full load.  So I built the McCreary simple regulator discussed here and am posting the results with the hope someone may find it usefull.  I've consulted with Bruce McCreary several times in the course of this project and he has been a great help with the success of it. 

I used a project board from Radio Shack instead of the ExpressPCB board.
The pass transister Q1 used is IRGB14C40LPBF as the specified one is unavailable.  I mounted it to a small heat sink I had on hand and it operates warm to the touch.  I would use a bigger heat sink next time but I'm not worried about this one.  The regulator is mounted in a box off the generator.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5-9KPEVOVPmdTIUr9N-ffA?authkey=Gv1sRgCN-YqvmH1oi44QE&feat=directlink

When first hooked up I found my inverter/charger would not accept the power and investigation with an oscilloscope showed some voltage spikes on the waveform.  A 50 uf capacitor across the line fixed that problem. 

The end result is less flicker than before, stiffer voltage regulation, and the ability to actually adjust my voltage up to 120 volts.  The flicker is only noticable with incandecent bulbs and just slightly in a mercury yard light.  Compact flourecents have none.

IMO this is a worthwhile project and for whatever reason can easily be reversed as the Z winding wires are just disconnected and taped off.

73, RH

Just an update and thanks again for you guys input that steered me in this direction.  I bought a goldstar 20mhz oscope on ebay for a hundred bucks and it has helped me solve my st-5 problem.   I had some voltage spikes in the top of the waveform.  I'm going to enjoy owning this tool. 
Best to all,
RH

Thanks for the input guys.  It all gives me ideas and helps me digest this.  Bruce, I haven't been back to the cabin yet so I haven't tried turning down the voltage yet.  Hope to return soon after I get my order of capacitors.
RH

Hi Bruce,
Thanks for answering.  The jyetech unit is priced around $75.00.  I'm still undecided.

About my AVR, I've ordered a selection of motor run capacitors to try in my system.  I found an application note for my inverter/charger that recomends using a 50 uf capacitor on the ac input to improve power factor for the charger to work better.  Perhaps it will also get the unit to accept the power from the st-5.  I did try a 1 uf capacitor (the only one I had on hand) but it didn't make a difference. 

I'll keep at it as time and material allow.  The AVR itself is working great.

RH

I have never used an oscilloscope so I'd like to hear from people who have, about these small and affordable units like from jyetech.com .  In particular, I'd like to know if they would be useful to investigate the quality of my home made st-5 power.
RH

Jedon,
You may find this interesting and informative reading:

http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/lister10.html

I used a pump like this with good results.  It keeps the engine temp uniform from bottom of cylinder to top of head.  195 F thermostat IIRC.
RH

My Ashwamegh 6-1 has the drilled guides and sucks it's resevoirs dry in about an hour of running.  I plan to plug the holes sometime.  In the meentime, I have some cotton string for wicking wrapped around the exposed part of the valve stem.  I don't fill the resevoirs but just oil the rockers and etc. and what runs down is enough to keep the wicks wet.
RH

So veggie, have you done the utterpower modification to your governor linkage?  If not that might help.

RH

thewayne,
I was given the contents of an abandoned underground heating fuel tank that was 20 or 30 years old.  It was dark amber color but smelled like diesel so I'm using it in my 6-1 and it seems to like it.
RH